I have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
View 1 RepliesI am first time ford owner of a 2003 ford f150 super crew fx4 with the 5.4 Triton and lately when I accelerate hard and it down shifts. It shifts excessively hard or when your going slow and the have to accelerate it also shifts really hard i dont know if it is the diff the U-joints or if its the transmission.
View 4 RepliesA friend from work is having what he says is piston slap, but only under a load. I feel it could be the timing set since it's never been changed and at least 160k miles. Odometer quit working at least 5 years ago. Other than that, motor runs great. 1997 F150 4.6....
View 4 Replies...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
View 6 RepliesMy wife's 2000 SCAB 4x4 has been rattling for a while now. I have been able to figure out that the culprit(s) are the metal bands on the leaf springs, which are somewhat loose and causing the rattle. I have squeezed them with a large c-clamp on a couple of occasions, which seems to have provided a temporary fix, but as soon as the suspension cycles fully they stretch out again, and begin making noise. How to tighten them permanently? Or is there a replacement/upgrade to fix it?
View 2 RepliesI bought some new leaf springs for my 2000 F150XL and noticed one is different only slightly, it being in the arch one is 7 15/16 which is correct, but the other is 8 1/8. how much variable do they allow, will it make that big of a difference or will i be able to notice it after there on. I am happy with them but don't want to put them on and then the truck set uneven??? the reason for replacing the ones still on the truck is they are twisted and apparently broke they are 2/1 springs and having the new ones i can tell the #2 spring on the truck now are shorter like the ends are broke off and the clips moved around allowing for them to twist, so i really needed new ones.should i put the taller arch on a particular side or should i just put them on....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F-150 that shifts way too early. By the time I hit 30mph it is in overdrive. Does not slip and has firm but early shifts. I am thinking the speed sensor...
View 14 RepliesHave an 01 f150 super crew 4x4 with 5.4 li shifts hard from 1st to 2nd - What could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesI just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 F150 4x4. I had some trans trouble so I pulled it out and had it rebuilt. Now when it shifts into drive the rpms speed up right before it shifts. What is causing the trans to do this? It doesn't do it all the time, only if I take off faster the usual which is most of the time.
View 1 RepliesJust did some trading for a 97 f150 4x4 extended cab with a 5.4 and auto trans. The guy I got it from told me that the transmission in it shifts real fast and won't downshift once it gets going and shifts hard sometimes. From past experiences I figured it might be the tps and sure enough pulled codes and I got the 122 code for voltage to low on it. Checked the wires with my multimeter and had exactly 5.0 volts to the one wire and when I checked the ground back to the battery had 12.xx volts when i tested the signal wire it had 1.0 so all my wires checked out but I am still getting the code. I replaced the sensor once already so I guess it is possible I got a new sensor that is bad or is there a chance that maybe my plugin to it is bad?
View 13 RepliesI was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
View 1 RepliesI have an 2003 F-150 4.6L with a 4R70W transmission, the speedometer goes crazy while I drive, the truck feels like it kicks in & out of overdrive, it shifts hard, the o/d light flashes while driving and I cannot use speed control. I have already checked the transmission fluid, changed the speed sensor, & the range sensor. After changing the range sensor the truck ran perfect for 3 days then the same problems.
View 5 RepliesBrake pedal was going to the floor. Plenty of fluid in Master Cylinder.
Pulled both front wheels off to find no sign of any leaks anywhere. High and dry all around.
Metal lines look like new the length of the car. No rust, no sign of any leakage. Clean and clear all around (this is a southern car).
Didn't pull the rear tires off, but just by rubber-necking with a flashlight, all dry back there, too.
So I removed the bottom bolt on both front calipers and swung them up out of the way.
Then I started pumping the brakes to see if the pistons moved.
Two rounds of about 6-7 pumps of the pedal, and nothing. No movement.
Third round, shocked to see both pistons came nearly all the way out!!!! In fact, when I touched them, they wobbled. They were hanging by a thread.
So I tried using a C-Clamp and old brake pad combo to try to push the driver's side piston back in.
But the (fairly large) C-Clamp wouldn't open quite enough, and unequal pressure was applied to the face of the piston.
Next thing I knew, the whole thing exploded with the piston falling out, and all the fluid gushing out to the ground.
Should I just pull the passenger side piston off now, too? And let that fluid also gush out? (all this fluid is pretty much original from the factory, so it's old fluid anyway.
Do I just place the piston back into the bore, refill, and bleed? The piston just sits in there loose like that with only the rubber seal holding it in??? Or are these calipers history?
What about the pads and discs? Some of the fluid got on the bottom half of the disc and one of the pads. Just wash it off with brake cleaner and let dry prior to reinstall?
'97 Taurus GL Wagon 3.0L OHV205k miles
I have a 98 f150 that I don't drive often. I had it out tonight and realized the my brake lights wouldn't come on unless I pressed the peddle down hard. Does the switch work off of pressure? They used to come on as soon as I would touch the peddle.
View 14 RepliesMy windshield wipers on my 97 f150 go very slow. Not sure if it's bad motors or what but I find it weird for them both to go at the same time. Is there a relay that could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 F150 with a 4.2. It has started to surge or stall out when I slow down sometimes. It doesn't do this all the time. I replaced the fuel filter about 2 mths ago and replaced the fuel pressure regulator then also. Would the tps have anything to do with it? I haven't had a scan done yet. Thought I would try here first because at one time someone has removed the two cats and the check engine is on all the time.
View 4 RepliesMy 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
View 13 RepliesGot 2004 v10 and my truck shifts hard into 2nd gear when starting off slow. If I take off at a faster pace it does not do it.
View 2 RepliesOK, after some bearing issues I replaced the crankshaft with a reman. The engine is now in, but it is not turning over like I think it should. It just feels too tight, and cranks slow. It cranks smooth, nothing hitting. It is hard to turn with a wrench on the front bolt. I am wondering if I messed up on the torque on the rod bearings.
I torqued them according to the book. First to 29 to 33 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 90 to 120 degrees. I went with the lower of the numbers, 29 foot pounds then an additional 90 degrees. The mains I tightened to 30 ft. lbs. then an additional 90 degrees.
Are these the correct specs? I did smear a little grease on the main journals before installing, but did not do this for the rods as the book says. Is this maybe something to do with my issue?
I did not measure with plastiguage to see, I didn't realize I was out of the stuff and didn't want to drive 50 miles away to get some! I am also wondering if heating up the bearings on one rod journal might have warped the rod and is binding not allowing it to turn. I did notice when I put it back together it turned a little hard, but figured it would be ok once it started.