Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Start And Idle For 2 Seconds Then Knocking Sound And Die
May 2, 2012
I have a 97 7.3 ... I've had it about 2 months now and now it wont start! It will start and idle for 2 seconds then start knocking and die! I had a buzz test ran on it and all is good. I also checked my Icp and checked my uvch harness with my multimeter. Before this it would run ok but seemed like it had a miss and a lack of power. On start up if i didn't have it plugged in it would smoke white smoke horribly. I am thinking maybe my IDM. I need my truck for work .... I had it hooked up to a scanner and it said faulty IDM.
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2000 5.4l lariat. My cylinder 1 for 2 years has been poping p0301code and has a rough idle at start for about 30 seconds. It also has a little white smoke for that 30seconds. new cop, new spark plug, new spark plug pig tail, swapped injectors to different cylinders multiple times to change code no luck. Compression dry and wet are at 200 and all cylinders are within10%. I had a dorman intake manifold installed 4 years ago and the code came a few years after. Im thinking intake manifold gasket is bad between cylinder 1 and the heater bypass tube allowing coolant to slowly leak down into the cylinder causing my rough start. I looked through the injector hole but could not tell. With all the info I have given is there any other places or things that it could be before I do a gasket replacement or is all my tests leading to the intake manifold gasket...
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2006 Sonata LX. It's only on a cold start up and lasts for about 30-45 seconds tops..and then it goes away. Car has 74k on it. Treated well. Only use synthetic oil and no check engine lights. Last oil change I put 5w 30 in it. I know it says to use 5w 20. Could this be the problem?
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New to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
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I have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
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My 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 5.4l with 105k miles. I started it up today to go to lunch and it made a knocking sound on start up that lasted maybe 20 seconds. So i shut it off and checked oil. All ok. Started it up again and it knocked but not as long as it did previously. I started to drive and higher in the rpm range before the trans shifts it makes the same knocking sound. Left off the pedal it goes away then rev it again it doesn't make the knock till around 2000rpm mark it I remember correctly. It makes the noise in all gears, parked or driving. It runs great, no power loss or misfire. Could it be a spark plug on the verge of blowing out or is it time for a new motor? I am going to look at it more tonight when I get off work.
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Here's what I have : 2003 F150xlt V6. about 65K miles.
Here's what happened : Drove it to the hardware store to pick up some stuff. Stopped in front of the garage. No abnormal indications during that trip at all. Decided to back to the garage and when I started it, it "ran" very rough and died in about 5 secs. Started again and chugged for about 2 or 3 secs. Tried a third time and would not run.
Here's what I've got : No CEL. all gauges indicate correctly. No anti theft blink. more than a 1/4 tank of fuel. in south central PA about at 35 degree day. parked level.
What I've checked : Wife turned the key on, I hear the fuel pump run a couple seconds with my ear in the rear wheel well. truck turns over fine. no start. turn the key off, about a two second buzz from the idle air control valve. when the key is turned on with my finger on the fuel pump relay, I feel it shift. I have pulled it and looked for corrosion. no problem. checked applicable fuses (visually).
I have tried to start with the IAC and MAF disconnected individually. tried to start it with a different key.
I have not : Banged on the tank to free up the pump. (I don't suspect it at this point)
I have not checked to see if there is fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Where is that schrader valve? I miss my books.
I have not verified that I have spark. What's the easiest way?
I have not modified my air intake in any way.
I'm headed out to a parts store tonight or walmart to get another scanner. I think my best clue here is the buzzing IAC. What's that mean?
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It driving me crazy. Every 10th start of engine it cranks over and over before it fires up, no codes, changed plugs, wires, crank trigger, fuel filter, upper and lower intake gaskets, injectors, iacv. I have no clue. Runs great all time just starting issue every 10th or so start takes 10- 15 seconds to start
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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2000 f150 v6... I just got the truck and was fine went to instant oil change and changed the oil used 5w30 and there filter unknown brand? now I'm getting a ticking kinda like a lifter tick?? you can hear it at idle not when moving.. Would the thicker oil be causing this? or the cheap filter is so filter should I go to? Motorcraft? bk to factory oil?
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I just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
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My dad has passed his 99 f 150 with 130,000 miles to me. It is a 2 wheel drive, extended cab automatic equipped with the 4.6. Recently, the blend door failed and as a temporary measure I installed a ball valve in the heater core supply hose. The ac now blows ice cold.
On two occasions since the installation of the ball valve, the truck has stalled at idle when in park and would not start, although it turned over fine, until 30 to 45 minutes elapsed. On both occasions it was a hot day. The check engine light is not on and no codes are stored.
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My '01 F-150 2WD, XLT has a foghorn sound coming from the left front side at idle after the 4.6L is warmed up. It goes away with an increase in engine RPM and is unnoticeable at hwy speeds. I have no codes (I have checked w/ my code reader). The service desk guy at the stealer said it is my abs pump going bad (I figured it was a pump of some sort, my 55 packard PS makes the same noise when almost empty-the system leaks). It also appears this is a stealer only part, and going to cost 6 or 7 benjamins to buy and probably another 5 benjamins too fix.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I have a 2011 xlt crew cab with the 5.0 v8.I have noticed a knocking sound at idle, it happens when the engine is cold or at operating temp. It doesn't do it all the time but more often than not.
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I am new to FTE and have a question about my 99 4.2l. After it warms up, i can shut it off and about 30 mins later try to start it again and it will idle very rough and sometimes stall. I also noticed that it surges sometimes with just off idle throttle when its cold. I am not getting any codes thrown, here's what I've done so far: cleaned the maf and throttle body, and it didnt work at all. I did convert my cht over to ect by using the plugged coolant outlet on the lower right side of the intake manifold and extending the connector wires which actually solved the problem a little bit but it still does it from time to time.
More info about the cht to ect conversion, but after reading that ford did away with them in later models i wanted to do the same while at the same time making it so much easier to swap it out if ever needed. No more getting under the truck. And where im at cht's are kind of hard to come by without having to order them Anyway, it worked flawlessly! I only had to extend the wires by about 8", wrapped them and ran it along side the injectors for a clean factory look. Ill try to post pics soon...
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Sometimes I have to park my car two blocks away in the afternoon, and later in the evening i need to park my car back to the spots in front of my apartment.
EV mode won't be enough to last the two blocks, even at 7 bars. Or sometimes the car won't let me turn on EV mode, even at 7 bars (battery too cold).
So the engine must run if i want to park my car back near my apartment. But the two block distance will not suffice to completely warm up the engine
So the next morning... (20~ Fahrenheit)
My car knocks for a few seconds the next morning the car starts up...
What is the definition of completing the warm up cycle? 120F? My car will turn off the engine after coolant temp reaches 120F (ECO mode).
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2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
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Ive been having a problem where the engine cranks and idles, sometimes rough, then I try to accelerate and the car shakes and accelerates very slowly with shaking. I replaced plugs coil and leads and fuel filter with no effect but put on a new egr valve and that fixed the problem for 2 months. The same thing happened again and I cleaned the evr solenoid and that fixed the problem for 1 month. Then the same thing happened while I was out and while limping home it fixed itself. Now a month later, the same thing happened, but when I got home and shut it off, the engine won't idle properly (very rough) for 6-9 seconds then dies. I don't know what to check at this point. Thinking it may be vacuum related or possibly a fuel injector or magic gremlins at this point.
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Recently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
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