Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Misfire And Occasional Backfire
Jul 20, 2017
For some time I have known the coils are going bad and cause occasional misfires but recently something new is added. Backfires and balking down to not moving. codes were po307 po300po430. the reader tells me the likely cause would be the vct solenoids. Also they offer a set of 8 coils at autozone with lifetime guarantee. Are these any good? I have read on here to beware of cheep coils. 2006 f150 5.4 miles is 119,000 have not changed spark plugs yet.
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I have a 2006 ford f 150 with a 5.4 Triton 3v engine and every time I floor it and the engine reaches 3000 rpms the truck backfires and looses power. Sometimes it wont pass 3000 rpm it just stays there and backfire and have no power. Sometimes the check engine light flashes...... I took the coils off and looked at them and they all looked pretty clean. Also the truck idles rough and sometimes when it cruising at low rpms, and I give it a little gas the truck will randomly misfire and shake hard. also the engine sounds like a diesel engine........ What might be wrong.
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1997 F-150 190K miles recently started stuttering and occasional backfire. feels like it's trying to shift but can't. I feel like I need to stomp the gas. I'm thinking plugs, wires, or coils....
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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I have a 2006 5.4L F150. I am encountering a misfire on the #3 plug. The only OBD error messages I receive are from misfire on #3, no other faults.
I have checked the plug, and it looks pretty good. I have recently changed all COPs. I have removed the injector rail and checked and cleaned all injectors. I have removed the wire connector from COPs and checked the voltage while the vehicle is running.
The #3 connector is measuring around 13.6V ... The other COP connectors I measure 0.17V to 0.4V ....
It appears this low volt reading is due to the neg signal wire closing and opening. I brought it in to a mechanic and he indicated the computer needs to be replaced, no signal was getting to COP. So this appears where I am at.
I have hence gotten a LED test light and verified the other COP connector wires cause the test light to flash, while the #3 COP wire connection to just stay on all the time, no blink signal. What the problem is?
The engine sounds pretty good, maybe a slight tick sound. But the misfire wobble is apparent. I figure I will change the computer at this point, since it appears this is where the issue is.
What else could interfere with the COP neg signal? It is pretty clean in the engine compartment, and no visible problems with the wires fraying on the accumulator, as I have read reports happening.
Is it the cam that makes this negative signal wire open and close?
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I have a 2006 F150 5.4L 3V with 105,000 miles on it. Recently, it has developed a misfire that is progressively getting worse. It happens when the truck is in overdrive, with engine RPM between about 1200 to 1800. Cruising at this RPM the truck runs great. If I increase the throttle, I develop a pronounced misfire. Once the truck down shifts out of OD and engine RPM exceeds 2000 RPM the misfire goes away. I have never had the CEL light come on during any of these events. The truck has the original plugs in it AFIK. I have not changed them.
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I have a 2006 F150 with a cylinder #1 misfire only code p0301. I have done new spark plugs, new coil packs, and new fuel injector on cylinder #1 with no luck. What to do next?
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Friend has a 2006 with the 4.6 motor. From time to time he gets a random misfire code ( I think its 0316).. He claims it will only do it when the gas tank is less that half full. I don't see any correlation between fuel level and the code. I am going to check fuel trim values, etc, when the code is set, this weekend.... all I can assume is low fuel pressure which sets the code... Any problem with the pressure module or fuel pump / discharge hose that is related to low level in the tank ?
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I have a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT that seems to have an intermittent misfire. The truck is not throwing any codes either.
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i just picked up an 06 f150 with 5.4l 4x4 xlt package. Love the truck as it is my 1st Ford HOWEVER..... the truck is running super rough at idle and keep getting code for cylinder 5 misfire and bank 2 lean (which i am assuming is from cyl 5). here is what i have done so far...
New Coil packs
New spark plugs
New fuel module
New fuel injector on cyl 5
Still has a "stumble" when accelerating around 45 mph and shows code for cyl 5 misfire then will then throw code for bank 2 lean.
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Over the past few months my '13 350 occasionally seems to hesitate when starting from a light, in a parking spot, in general no/low speed maneuvers. It doesn't do it every time, and it's not a hesitation with engine bucking, backfire, or noise. It just feels like the power takes a few seconds to come on when I hit the pedal. Sometimes. It has been interesting a few times on highway on-ramps...
At first I thought it was my accelerator technique, using the wrong foot angle, but I've been careful to apply the pedal correctly. Since it doesn't feel like the classic engine miss I was wondering if there are any other things to consider, such as transmission (hopefully a software update or something else simple) or anything else.
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I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
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We've got a 2006 F150 with a 5.4 in it. One of the new kids was told to change the spark plugs, then when I went to start the truck the next day it was missing bad. Plugged in the Ford IDS, number 7 cylinder is dead. Only codes are for that cylinder misfire, and random miss on startup. So, I double checked the kids work and it was all fine. Tried putting a new plug in, didn't work. Moved the coil to a different cylinder to see if the miss would jump, stayed on number 7.
Used a noid light to verify COP harness was working, and it was. Put a new coil on it anyway since I had one, still missing. Used noid light to verify signal going to injector for the cylinder. Signal was good, replaced the injector for the cylinder. Still misfiring. Ran a compression test and the cylinder has good compression. The threads for the plug are fine, not cross threaded or torn out. The only thing I can think is that the PCM has gone bad in a way that its firing the injector/COP, but doing so at the wrong time some how.
Every other cylinder is running fine, O2 sensors fine. PCM isn't trimming anything back to account for anything, and if it was it would do it to multiple cylinders to keep the engine balanced. Cant think of any more tests, and I don't believe there is anyway that the airflow could be restricted to only 1 cylinder, but I could be wrong. Wanna try and solve this to keep from sending it to the dealer.
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
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I've been having this occasional starting issue with my truck. I turn the key and the engine acts like it's going to fire up, so I let go of the key and it doesn't start. Then I try to restart it and either it cranks and fires a few times before it starts, or it fires right up and the starter grinds because I couldn't let go of the key fast enough.
I've had this problem a few times before, but lately it seems to be happening more often. It works normally 98% of the time. Maybe I'm just not letting the engine crank long enough to get it to run before letting go of the key.
Also, the spark plugs were just changed 10k miles ago and when the truck is running it runs great.
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2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
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I have a 2001 oldsmobile aurora 78,000 miles on original motor. the car misfires , backfires underhood,and excessive gas consumption, also sounds terrible at the rear exhaust. 3.5l motor issue stated after i filled up at cheap gas station.
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