Azera TG (2006-11) :: 2008 - Occasional Low Brake Pedal
Jan 6, 2013
2008 Hyundai Azera 3.8L V6 .... Purchased in 2009 with 11,000 miles.
In early November 2012, I experienced occasional episodes of a low brake pedal, which did not affect the stopping power of the vehicle. Most of the time, the car stops and behaves normally. However, once in a while, the brake pedal drops/travels farther than usual. (This is accompanied by a heart pumping, "I'm about to blow through this stop sign", moment.) I had a full brake inspection performed at my usual automotive repair shop. Nothing was found to be wrong with the system. Linings were 30% front, 90% rear (rears were done at one year prior, at 48,000 miles). Odometer at the time was 64,850.
I returned to the shop one week later with the same symptoms. Again the system was inspected, and nothing was found to be wrong. Decided to replace the master cylinder as the most logical explanation of the symptoms. Drove car successfully, without symptoms, for approximately 1,600 miles.
Recently, at 66,600 miles, the same problem has returned. Returned to the shop for additional brake inspection. No faults were found in the entire braking system. No stored ABS codes. No visible fluid leaks. Fluid is clean and full. Shop contacted local Hyundai service representative, who claims that this behavior is normal for this particular vehicle. Claims that as the ABS hydraulic pump cycles, the vehicle will feel like is has no brakes (but will stop properly.)
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On my 2006 Azera Limited with about 27,000 miles on it. Occasional hard shift issue. Normally the car is only driven 10 miles a day to and from work no problem. But on longer trips have hard a few instances of hard shift.
The first time this hard shift bump occurred was when I was driving on city streets 2 minutes after getting off the freeway after a 2 hour drive. On a scale of 1-10 this was a #5 bump like feel followed by a #3 bump in the next few minutes while accelerating from a signal light. There were no further bumps that day, even after another 2 freeway drive.
The second time the #3 bump happened was on an on ramp after a 3 hour freeway drive and a short rest stop. No further bumps that day even after another 3 hour freeway drive.
The last time this #3 bump happened was on a city street after a 45 minute freeway drive. No further bumps on the return trip. I am not sure which gears this bump happens between.
I have no MIL set. So I took it too a transmission shop and they could not find anything wrong but said there was a code C1616 CAN Bus Off Failure. His opinion was that this problem maybe an electrical issue.
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I get a clunk noise when stepping on and releasing the brakes occasionally but not always. This occurs even with the engine off and the vehicle stationary. I also hear some other noise like some sort of vacuum servo thing is happening.
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3300 miles in, and my brake pedal is extremely hard/stiff when I attempt to start the car. I don't have issues getting it to turn on, but it literally moves maybe 1/4 inch at most. It just randomly started doing this.
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Friday night my car is fine. Sunday, after some wintry weather, I start the car and it shakes and stalls out. I start it again and notice the check engine light and the ESC light is on and the car doesn't respond to the gas pedal. No response to hitting the ESC light. Runs rough like it was 25 years old. I limp around the block and decide not to drive it. I hope it's a really simple inexpensive computer chip replacement....
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My car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
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Have noticed recently a "slipping" of sorts of the tranny while shifting or if I release the gas pedal, then lightly accelerate again.
My 2001 Sebring has had these symptoms for years, but have been explained off as being a habit with the Chrysler electronic transmission...
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For some time I have known the coils are going bad and cause occasional misfires but recently something new is added. Backfires and balking down to not moving. codes were po307 po300po430. the reader tells me the likely cause would be the vct solenoids. Also they offer a set of 8 coils at autozone with lifetime guarantee. Are these any good? I have read on here to beware of cheep coils. 2006 f150 5.4 miles is 119,000 have not changed spark plugs yet.
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I just bought a used (25K miles) 2008 Azera. On Friday I started the car to leave work, and the ABS and ESC OFF lights came on. Not sure what to do I started to pull from my parking spot, and the front wheel ABS seemed to be engaging as i drove slowly (had the sound and feel of ABS as if I was making a fast hard stop). I pulled into another space and shut off the car. When I restarted it minutes later, the lights were off and no sound/pulsing feel. Is this a known issue?
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My parents have a 2008 Azera with 65k miles on it. Bumper to bumper warranty has expired. Their trunk will not close. It doesn't seem to latch. Any recommendations before I take it to the dealer? What the cost may be to have it fixed?
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Last Wednesday, I went to the parking lot after a lunch meeting and my 08 Azera would not turnover. I assumed it was a bad battery (53,000 miles on the original) so I replaced it in the lot (The original tested dead at the parts house). After connecting the terminals of the new battery, the car would still not turnover. It wouldn't even click. I called road side assistance and when they arrived the car started fine by just turning the key - no charger/jump system was attached . I drove the car the rest of the day and put it in the garage that evening.
The next morning, the car would not turnover again - not even a click. I called roadside assistance again and they came out and connected a portable charger and it turned right over. I drove the car to the dealer and it continued to start without issue and they were unable to diagnose any problem. They did a parasitic draw test but the new battery continued to test as fully charged. They also checked the starter and it appeared to be functioning properly. I parked the car that evening and the next morning it wouldn't turnover - not even a click.
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Creaking dashboard on 2008 azera ... I bought silicone spray to try not sure if this will work.
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I have 2008 azera and the dash is creaking noise, I tried felt tape across the length of the dash still the noise, sounds like the windshield is flexing or the dash is flexing when I take off and driving any solutions don't tell me to turn up the volume on the radio.
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ON smooth highway at varying speeds I can hear a rhythmic bumping/thumping noise from the front end of our 2008 Limited with 26,000 miles. It is speed sensitive but I can't tell if it would be a wheel bearing going bad or tire noise from the stock Michelins or maybe one out of balance though I don't feel anything as much as I hear something. I guess I can take it to dealer to see if they can diagnose
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We have a 2008 Azera Ltd. with 108,000 miles. Until recently rear sunshade worked perfectly as we used in in auto mode retracting in reverse and going up in forward. No noise during any phase of operation. Not sure when but recently sunshade quit functioning. have tried console button without success but also hear no noise indicating a broken gear as others have reported. Have checked fuse on drivers side fuse panel and it is not blown. From this I can only assume problem is either motor has completely failed or switch is bad. I have laid in the trunk to see if i can access system but covers are all riveted so i thought I'd pull the switch and test it but not sure how to remove it without damaging console
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I got my 08 Azera Limited two weeks ago (it's a used vehicle, less than one year old with only 7,500 miles on it.... it's a Carmax car, but after the purchase I got it checked through by a dealer and everything seems to be fine. Interior looks and smells like new, 3 minor scratches in the paint which have been fixed... nothing else. considering i paid less than 20k, not a bad deal).
However, I noticed a few things (within the past two weeks):
1) power steering noise. When the engine is on (the car can be in park or drive) and I start moving the steering wheel (even if I move it only VERY slightly), I can hear a softly grinding/whining noise.... it occurs when i move the wheel right or left. when the car is moving faster than lets say 20mph ... you tend not to hear it because other noises (wind, street, engine) cover it up. But it's clearly there when you drive very slowly and it's quiet (parking garage etc).
The PS fluid is ok and i cannot detect any leaks. I assume the noise is a "noisy" PS pump or it's the pressure in the PS system which makes those whiny noises.
2) rattles. I read most of the rattles post here and I have to admit, that my 08 Azera has some rattles too. Nothing serious, but it shows that the Azera is not quite Lexus class.
The most annoying rattle i have is in the drivers door. it comes from the speaker area (the upper speaker in the drivers door) and something in there seems to rattle. It's most obvious when I go less than 60mph and the pavement/street is bad - there are vibrations in the car. unfortunately i don't think i can fix that rattle without opening the speaker cover or so. wonder if hyundai fixes rattles after the 12 month adjustment warranty??
The second rattle I have is the center speaker in the dashboard. if i go on vibrating pavement less than 40mph i can sometimes hear that speaker rattle... if i put the hand on it, it disappears for a while and then comes back again.... unfortunately roads here in texas do suck big time (concrete pavement patchwork with lots of holes....) and so I can hear that rattle a few times on my way to work.
The most annoying rattle came from the back seats but was in fact the tool box on the spare tire in the trunk. i turned that plastic piece on the spare tire a few degrees until it fit better and the rattle disappeared. if it comes up again i will try to put a blanket on top of the spare tire. it's interesting who much noise comes from the trunk into the main cabin.
I haven't had any suspension problems so far and I think the Azera suspension is quite stiff but very sporty. Back in Germany I had a 06 Audi A4 TDi as a company car and the A4 suspension was somewhat comparable to the Azera.
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2008 Azera with 90K miles won't start or crank. Unhooked battery and hooked it back up--no joy. No lights on the dash--absolute silence when turning the key. Doors and trunk won't auto-unlock. Can't get it into neutral to move it so I can try to jump it. Almost like it has some kind of kill switch.
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2008 Azera Ltd. with 100,000 miles. Good cold air on passenger side but not drivers side. Where is drivers side acuator located so I can try to test and replace?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Azera and out of nowhere the moonroof quit working. It is almost closed - only 1/2 inch open - so I can live with it but would like to fix it. My mechanic said that the problem was software that only the dealer could fix. Called my 2 local dealers and they were absolutely clueless.
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My 08 Azera blows cold air out the drivers side vent when everything on the right sides blows heat. If I set drivers side 88 degrees it blows some warm air. I changed the cabin filter and that did not work.
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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