Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Rough Idle / Throttle Plate Had Lot Of Carbon
Apr 30, 2011
I recently bought a 2006 that idles rough, not real bad, but bad enough for me (and my 9 year old kid!) to notice. I asked the dealer where I bought it and they put it on the computer and said everything checked out. He said "it's a characteristic of this motor." I've never heard of such a thing. The truck has 27,000 miles on it and the dealer flushed the fuel system. He said the throttle plate had a lot of carbon on it, but it still idles rough... 4.6 idle rough?
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I just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.
I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.
Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?
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I am checking my car parameters at idle. I was comparing the values of intake manifold pressure and vacuum. When I press accelerator or give gas means throttle plate opening my manifold pressure decreases and vacuum increases, I hear when throttle plate open more air come inside so manifold pressure must be increases and vacuum decreases. Am I right? if so which part will be culprit of this action?
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I have a 2006 f150 I just bought after my F250 was stolen. It has about 70k miles. It has been running pretty rough ever since I got it. It finally threw codes so I tried to address all the issues. Changed out a couple coils and all the plugs (motorcraft platinum). The camshaft sensor was also bad. Truck runs much better but still has an idle issue I cant seem to nail down.
I assume its something to do with air intake. It doesnt happen all the time. It runs rough and knocks and sometimes dies. If I give it gas it stops. I read it could be the idle air intake valve, but then I read that this model doesnt have one. I also read that air intake issues dont normally throw codes. Are there any common problems I could look for? Would cleaning the throttle body do any good?
I know the basics, but this kind of thing is tough for me to troubleshoot. You may have already seen me post this problem, but I didnt get much response so I thought I'd try one last time.
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I just received a 06 F150xl with a 5.4 triton and idles rough with the following codes! p0357 p0012 p0340 p0344 p0351 p0352 p0356 p0358 p0357 p0102 p0113 p0353 p0354 p0355 It's amazing the truck even runs and with no light on but it will accelerate. someone mentioned to clear the codes and drive it 50miles or so and read them again.
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I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
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I just bought an 2006 f150 4x4 with a 5.4l 3valve, and this morning when I pulled into work it was idling Rough as I let off the gas and rolled into my parking spot. No check engine light or nothing, just when it's in gear Rpm is at 600-700 and vibrating. When I shifted it into neutral or park it went away and the engine ran smooth. According to the oil pressure gauge I've got good flow. I was told from the dealer that they replaced the cam phasers, timing chain and put new spark plugs in it. What the issue is here?
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Ok new issue that started yesterday only get it at idle. Runs great above idle no real power loss or change in fuel econ. Haven't really had a chance to test much. I was thinking maybe a injector issue but I don't know
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completely stock 2006 4.6, 230,000 miles, I purchased and can vouch for everything after 106,000.
Two separate issues...have had a slight ticking noise growing for about the last two years. Seems to get slightly worse near an oil change but that could be my imagination. It has finally gotten loud enough that my wife (who drives with the delicacy and observational skills of a Sherman tank driver) actually mentioned it to me the other day. It is directly related to engine speed whether the truck is in gear or not. I kind of think it might be a manifold gasket going out but am not sure. Am not very worried about it but...felt like I needed to mention it because of my bigger problem....
Truck has gotten very "cranky" on startup in the last week. Has a rough time finding an idle speed but typically sorts itself out after about 5-10 seconds. This afternoon it started idling rough at a stoplight. It got steadily worse and noticeable even at speed. Four stoplights and nine miles later it threw a code and coincidentally, I was in front of an Advance Auto. They read it and said the #3 cylinder was not firing. I bought an ignition coil, drove 15 miles home and changed it. From everywhere I looked online, this is the second cylinder from the firewall on the passenger side.
Had a little trouble getting it in and am not entirely sure it is fully seated in the slot, but I can't get it to go any further. Seems as tight as a couple of the others. I disconnected the battery to clear the codes, cranked it up and it seems to run "better", but still has a rough idle. Just test drove it about 12 miles and no check engine light but the idle has not cleared up. I think coil must be working fine because I have no issues at highway speed. Earlier, when I backed off the gas you would feel the miss very badly, but not as much when under a load.
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I just bought a used 2006 Ford F-150 it has the Triton 4.6L V8. Seems to be running ok a little white smoke on start up, but the other night after leaving work at 5am when it was around 10 degrease freezing. When I started my truck it was idling very rough like it was about to die but it didn't after it warmed up it was a little better but I think I seen black smoke from the rear end, but like I said after it was warm it sounded like normal so I started to head home and got about 15 mins down the road and it started to run very bad like it was bogging down and lost all power if I pushed on the gas all the way I was not picking up any speed but if I let off the gas the truck would jerk very bad and gain speed. But the next day in the morning it started up fine no problem I even drove it around town with no issue. What this issue could be?
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
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I've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)
Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.
What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)
My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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Ok, so I just replaced the entire timing set (phasers, chains, sprocket, tensioners ect) on my 2004 f150 5.4l about a month ago. I also extracted ALL 8 spark plugs and replaced those with the Champion 1 piece plugs. In addition, I replaced the intake manifold because I did this job when it was 20 degrees outside and I found a crack. Soooo, all that being said I put the whole truck back together and it runs like New. Until about a month later. When the engine gets hot, maybe after about a 30 minute drive or so, it has a really really rough idle until I give it a little bit of gas. Then it clears up. It has only done it 3 times since I put the engine back together. It might go 2 weeks and not do it. No codes. What I could be? EGR? MAS air? Only other thing I can think to say is if you get on it out on the highway, after about 3k rpms it seems like the power drops off quite a bit. Like the engine isn't getting enough fuel. I guess it could be just me, but it just doesnt seem right.. I guess I could try to unplug the MAS air flow sensor...
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I hopped in my truck this morning, fired it up, and it idled nicely. I drove around the corner, and noticed that the truck was barely responding to the throttle. Then things got shaky. It was a very rough idle, almost like a misfire. But I managed to get the gas to respond and got the revs up to about 3K and it seemed to run smooth.
No CEL either. Currently, I have no place to really look at my truck as I don't have a garage, or driveway for that matter. I don't have a scanner that can read live data either. I'm limited in my tools currently as well.
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I have 2008 f150 with 5.4 and 54000 miles. It has a bad vibration or rough idle only when AC is on. When AC is off it runs very smooth. Runs great while driving with AC on. Tensioner pulley was moving a lot more than normal when engine started vibrating so i replaced it and the belt but it didn't work. I also checked the other pulleys and they are good.
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Is it possible to have an intermittent injector problem I am having the same problem with my 2004. Its not all the time its rough only at idle constantly. If I keep the rpms up it doesn't do too bad...
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An injector stuck open on my 05 5.4 and bent a rod. I had a new rod put in and all new revised Motorccraft injectors. This was about a month ago. Truck has ran great for the past 3 weeks until today I put it in park and it idles real rough, put it in gear and it smooth as butter again? (Once in a rare while it will continue to idle rough in gear for a few seconds but then clears up.) New motorcraft plugs were put in right before it bent the rod. The truck runs real strong other wise. I am about done with ford this pickup has been the biggest pile I've ever owned one thing after another and just when I think its fixed its some other stupid problem. I'll start by cleaning the maf and throttle body. Could it be a bad coil?
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I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
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