Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Intake Manifold Pressure Decreases With Throttle Plate Opening At Idle?
Jan 1, 2015
I am checking my car parameters at idle. I was comparing the values of intake manifold pressure and vacuum. When I press accelerator or give gas means throttle plate opening my manifold pressure decreases and vacuum increases, I hear when throttle plate open more air come inside so manifold pressure must be increases and vacuum decreases. Am I right? if so which part will be culprit of this action?
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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I recently bought a 2006 that idles rough, not real bad, but bad enough for me (and my 9 year old kid!) to notice. I asked the dealer where I bought it and they put it on the computer and said everything checked out. He said "it's a characteristic of this motor." I've never heard of such a thing. The truck has 27,000 miles on it and the dealer flushed the fuel system. He said the throttle plate had a lot of carbon on it, but it still idles rough... 4.6 idle rough?
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I have a chamfering noise coming from my intake manifold on idle. sometimes its there and sometimes its not, it goes away with any application of throttle.
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Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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Check Engine Code P2006 intake manifold runner control stuck on closed? Taking it in to have it checked out.
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2012 dodge caravan. Bought it used last year with 27k miles. Day after I bought it, it threw a misfire code. They said the spark plugs got wet when they washed the under carriage. Dried it out, cleared the code.
For the next month the car went from a slight shimmy during idle...progressed to strong shaking (its shakes, pauses, shakes...etc.) Finally another misfire code. Took it in and this is what the report says.
"Cylinder misfire on #4. Performed compression test found #4 cylinder compression at 100 PSI. All other cylinders at 150 PSI. Recommend to replace front cylinder head. Has burned exhaust valve seat. Replaced left cylinder head assembly."
About 2 months later check engine light comes on, car is over heating. Coolant bone dry. Replaced coolant, took it back in. They replaced the intake manifold?? Been slowly losing coolant. I have to replace it about every 2-3 months. I notice the car shakes worse when the coolant is low, with minimal shaking when coolant is replaced. Finally took it back in a few week ago when my husband got back from deployment. They said it was a loose bolt on the intake manifold causing the slow leak. They couldn't verify my complaint about the shaking.
Now, car still shaking. Its minimal on start up, gets worse the longer I idle. I can only feel the shaking while in idle. If I restart the car it goes back to minimal before progressing again. Took it back in. They verified the shaking, hooked it up to a computer, no codes or anything. Told me its normal. It CANT be normal, right? I neglected to check the coolant level before I took it back in. I left it with them saying they will look it over, but they don't think anything is wrong. This is exactly how it progressed when they ended up replacing the cylinder head. I have 1k miles left on the warranty, and am moving in 2 weeks 1500 miles away. I don't have time to wait for another code.
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I have a 2006 F150 screw 4.6 auto 116k miles that has evidence of a small coolant leak where the intake manifold joins the head. This is on the drivers side directly under the thermostat housing. The t-stat housing is dry and the hoses all appear dry. It's just wet right at the gasket where the manifold joins the head. Reservoir is still normal so it's not leaking too much just yet.
I searched this site and youtube but didn't find any other posts. Lots of problems with older trucks with composite manifolds but nothing for this one. It looks like a part of the bottom of the manifold is plastic but the entire top and where it is leaking is all aluminum.
It seems odd that this would start in the winter time just driving back and forth to work (no load). And, yes the antifreeze is good. Just wondering if this is a known issue with this truck. Is it just a matter of replacing the gaskets or is there some other flaw I should be concerned about?
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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I recently bought a 08 Sonata V6, with 94K mileage. The oil pressure light comes on when the engine is idle (around 700-800 rpm). The seller told me that this problem started a few months ago, but the car has not been used much since then. He also said that he has changed the oil after that, but the problem still persists.
The engine light has shown up more recently, like in a week or two. I took the car to a mechanic and he could not guess what the problem might be. But he gave me the error codes: P0011, and P0051. There are no other obvious symptoms (e.g. oil leakage, low oil level, unusual sound from the engine).
I could not find any thread regarding both of these issues (Oil Pressure, and the error codes) together. Any connection between these two?
So far, I have realized that the oil pressure can be due to a bad sensor, and P0011 has something to do with CVVT, and Oil Control Valve (OCV). But I would like to make sure I don't just waste money by replacing the sensor and OCV.
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Well, it's looking sort of depressing for my '06 Sonata! I had an oil change done yesterday and now I'm getting a Low Oil Pressure Light on idle under 1,000 rpm's. Today the check engine light came on and it's code P0021.
I also experience very noisy "bearing" type noise upon start-up which happens for about 10 seconds or so. This has been going on for a month or so.
During my online research it's appearing that I may be suffering from the dreaded Timing Chain Tensioner I've read a lot about.
I'm aware of the TSB (10-EM-006) and have a copy of it if needed.
My question is this...my Sonata has 151,000 miles on it, well beyond the 100k warranty period. Will Hyundai repair my issue as a warranty item under that TSB?
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My car has had a rough idle (no MIL). Scanned for codes and got the following:
P0552 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - Low
P0553 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - High
I'm picking up the part at the dealer this afternoon. I printed out a diagram of the component location, and it looks to be easily accessible.
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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When sitting in traffic the idle decreases normally, the lights dim somewhat, the blowers slow a bit, the digital clock will begin to "quiver or flicker" and the car will shut off. It will start right back up. I have a new battery and have a reconditioned alternator (about 2 years ago.) I have had to the mechanic shop and they tell me it is not the alternator. Had an electronic ignition added in 2010 (obviously not factory with the original car) to the car and had that turned off a couple of weeks ago, which seemed to give it new life. Then it turned really cold again and have noticed the flickering and the feeling that the car wants to die when sitting in traffic. What could be wrong with the car? One time when the car died it set the clock back to 12:00.
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Today I was on my way back home from a weekend trip to see family when the CEL came on. The car was running fine no problems (we had driven 200 miles). Gas mileage was good, good power, no weird noises, engine temp was fine (it was 100 degrees outside). But being how the car has 39k on it and its the most expensive thing I own; I pulled over and had autozone scan it for me. It came up as Intake Manifold Sensor. I have never worked on this car but Im going to at some point, I'll replace it myself if it isn't to hard. I am wondering if it is as simple as replacing the sensor or could there be an underlying issue like a blown intake manifold gasket (like i said the car was running fine though)?
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Turned the key on my 2002 MC SS, V6, 3.8L, and the Intake Manifold exploded.
Intake Manifold Exploding on a GM V6, 3.8L? It sounded like a 12ga shotgun. Fortunately no one was looking into the engine compartment at the time as they likely would have been killed given the amount of shrapnel from this explosion. Note that the explosion was powerful enough to blow off the oil cap, which is screwed on with very thick threads.
The vehicle was at my mechanics at time and in his forty years he's not seen an intake manifold explode save for those residing on Top Fuel or Funny Cars.
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One of the nozzles on the back of my intake manifold broke off. I don't know how to better explain it. The ones the back of the manifold closest to the firewall there are several hoses that hook to the manifold. The second one from the left broke.
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I'm having a problem with the intake manifold shifter not working on my r32. I've tried all of the normal fixes, the shifter rod itself and the vacuum diaphragm that opens it are both functioning correctly, all of the vacuum lines are new and not leaking. Connecting vacuum directly to the diaphragm causes the shifter to immediately open. I've tried 3 different solenoids with the same result, all open when 12v is directly applied, but the manifold doesn't open at it's RPM point like it's supposed to. The solenoid sees a constant ~11v under all conditions, regardless of engine RPM. I've traced this wire back to the ECU and confirmed it's not damaged. No CEL other than for the SAI missing.
At this point, I'm assuming whatever circuit that controls this in the ECU is fried (cruise control doesn't work either.) I have an extra 24v vr6 (2.8) ECU sitting around which from what I've read uses the same hardware, just a different flash. This may be a stupid question, but if I were to take this to UM to get a performance flash, would I be able to basically overwrite the 2.8 ECU and make this work in the R? Would there be any issues with the immobilizer?
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My husband has a 2011 GTI, which has just hit the 40k mileage mark. His CEL started coming on in March, but we figured it was due to him not tightening the gas cap enough, as he'd open and relock the gas cap, and the CEL would go away within a few restarts of the car. Took it into the stealership last week, got the 40k service (which was a bit of a rip-off in itself), and then got told the manifold was bad.
This is the exact text for the invoice: "Checked the vehicle for codes and found code P2015. Traced the intermittent failure to the intake manifold valve flap sensor failing."
I've seen a lot of posts around this problem, for many models and years, but it seems like most people managed to get it repaired under warranty / TSB. So I have three questions:
1. In the OBD codes, does it store date as well as code? In other words, is there a way to prove that this failed under 36k miles?
2. What's the process for getting this escalated to VWOA customer care, since I feel this should be taken care of under warranty?
3. The dealership we took the car to (which is not where we purchased the car, but is just closer to home) was shady, and the guy we worked with was, to say it nicely, a jerk.
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Can oil leak out of Intake Manifold? i have Oil around lower intake manifold gasket. is this serious issue?
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I am just wondering at what revs the stock intake manifolds are meant to switch over as i think mine is stuck and not moving.
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