Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 Lariat 54.L V3 Truck Shuttered A Lot And Died Now Won't Start
Sep 20, 2012
I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L V3 Lariat with 90,000 miles on it. For about 5-6 months now I have noticed a strong sputtering when I am driving at low RPM's around the 44-50 mph range. When I lightly give it gas the sputtering begins and doesn't cease until I accelerate out of the current gear into a higher RPM/speed. This has become more pronounced over the last few weeks so my mechanic replaced the fuel flter and checked to make sure the pump was working as well. We also added some 5w-30 oil to make it full, even though 5-20 is preferred.
Truck ran smooth initially but then it got worse with the sputtering. A couple of days later I filled up my gas tank and as I pulled out of the station my truck shuttered alot and died. the CEL came on, LOP came on, and even the low tire pressure light came on. The truck will not start now, but it cranks smooth and strong until the battery loses power. I had the truck towed and then we reset the gas shut of toggle, sprayed starting fluid in the air intake, and checked all fuses, as well as the fuel pump engagement. Still no ignition. Next we replaced all spark plugs(4.5 hours later). Still no ignition. Only CEL light and low tire pressure light. I bought it used less than 18 months ago?
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I own a 2007 Lariat F150 with the 5.4 4x4. It has 96000 miles.
That being said. The other day I was driving and went through a pretty big mud hole on a county road (couldn't go around it). Following, very shortly, my truck bogged down and died. "Low Oil Pressure" popped up. I let it sit for a minute, and checked underneath to make sure that I hadn't popped a line or ripped something. I hadn't.
I start the truck up again, and started driving no issues, for about 3/4 of a mile, and again it died, and "LOP". So I let it sit for about 15 minutes, thinking about why it would have that pop up. Couldn't figure out anything. Started again. and had a really rough idle in between the 500-1500 RPM range.
I decided to change out the oil when I got home. I put in some 15-40, hoping that would solve the issue.
It hasn't still idles really rough, but won't shut down anymore. I didn't try driving it though because I was afraid it would die again.
I'm not sure if the spark plugs are bad, I don't think they've ever been changed (I know it's bad). I'm pretty sure that it's not a vacuum leak, but not 100%. I need this truck to run.
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I have a 07 Lariat with vacuum 4X4 switch. Goes in and out of 4 Hi and Low however dose not light up on dash for 4 Hi only( 4 Lo lights up ). Is this the beginning of a vacuum leak or bigger problem?
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i have a 2006 f-150 xlt, i was driving it today and it started making a 5x5 beeping noise shortly after i started it up. I read on a few forums that that beeping is a warning about the passenger airbag sensor or something. anyways it went away and kept driving for 5 minutes or so when suddenly the dash went out and all the gauges dropped but i was still able to drive fine. A minute later the engine just died and i managed to pull over to the side of the road. now nothing works when i turn the key, not even a light, its just a dead weight, the remote locking doesn't even work. the only sign of life is a LED from my phone charger that is plugged into the outlet. the battery is only 2 months old so its not that.
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I was driving down the freeway, headed up a hill and my truck started slowing down, rapidly, it eventually died. I put it in neutral and started it up, went about 1' and it died again. It did this several times. I was almost to the top of a hill and was hoping I could coast down, but didn't make it. It ended up dying completely.
I would turn the key to start it, and it would keep trying to turn over (even when i let go of the key. it was weird). Then after a few times of that, the battery just died.
I also noticed a smell. Like something burning. I noticed it off and on for the last week and asked a friend to check it out but he was like "oh its nothing".
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4l that does not crank when you turn the key to start. I have tried jumping the starter over and it does crank after that but it will not start. I am completely stumped by this and I'm not sure what the problem is?
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I have a 07 6.0 that won't start it died a few weeks ago while driving. Being a mechanic I've done numerous things to the truck in order to fix all the common 6.0 problems but can't figure this one out. It will crank and get oil pressure and fuel pressure but seems to not be getting fuel. The IPR valve isn't clogged I tried with 2 working valves nothing worked. Along with changing the ficm. The connections to the ficm are clean and all in tact. I have an edge evolution chip that isn't even showing any codes. Not sure what to try next since I don't have any codes to go off of.
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My 06 f150 v6 auto died on the way to work last night. It said trans fault on the dash. The trans has been shifting fine no slipping no hard shifts. The trans has 113k I replaced the motor and it has 57k. Both have been working great until last night. I plugged my scanner up it had a bunch of codes so I cleared them and done a koeo test and got 10 codes.
P0141
P0161
P0740
P0743
P0748
P0750
P0753
P0755
P0758
P0962
With the key in the on position the truck was showing 27.3 psi on fuel.
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I have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
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On my way into work this morning, my 06 with the 5.4 started running very rough/shaking at low rpms. I could kick it out of overdrive and it would smooth out and seemingly be fine at higher rpms.
This worked out for a couple of miles until the truck just died on me completely. The Edge is showing po351, 352, 353......358 codes. Ignition coil Primary/Secondary circuit fault on every cylinder.
I'm thinking its unlikely that every coil failed simultaneously....computer? When I try to start the truck, it will try to hit on a cylinder or two, but will not run.
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Ok, so my 2007 F150 Lariat super crew cab has been at the dealership for a week now with them claiming that a part is on back order. How hard is it for them to get in a right front axle?? Granted, it was in there for other stuff too (which they can not give me a straight answer on if they fixed or not cause they are claiming the technician hasn't done the write up on it yet). My main concern is that they are screwing me around or that something happened to my truck. I am planning on stopping by there on Wed. morning after I get out of work.
Are these trucks known for bad front axles or was there some kind of a big recall on them?
Other things it went in for was the radio having the CD's cycle through when you first start up the truck, but does not happen like that all the time. Black plastic driver side front door hinge is cracked exposing the metal reinforcing part. Whirring/bearing type noise when you first start up the truck when it is cold and sits overnight (which they claim they can't hear yet waited to bring the truck inside and check it out at 3PM when they had the truck overnight from the night before when I dropped it off.) and the front driveshaft not fully disengaging when the truck is in 2wd. Almost seems like the vacuum locking hubs are still engaged.
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Last friday, my truck died while running. I let it sit for a few hours, went out and it started right up. Went to get pizza for my kids and I got 5 blocks from my house and I barely had any power. Truck died again while getting pizza and had to tow it home. Now it will not start. I have checked fuses, taken apart the fuel pump on the motor and cleaned the water from it, added a fuel treatment and also did an old truckers trick with the fuel (10% gasoline). the truck will crank and make an attempt to fire but it will not start. I have 3 kids and this is my ONLY transportation. I need to get this thing running STAT.
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My wife was driving through the intersection when the truck died... Tried to start it again but no go, I had it towed home, and stared to troubleshoot.
I have a Scan gauge2 and these were the readings: FMP: 47.5, IPR: 84.71, SYC: 1, ICP: 0
I pulled the IPR (that was only a year old) and the screen was perfect. I had 11.5v at the plug for the IPR, and on the Ohms scale I was reading 1.8Mohms.
I went to the dealer and got a new IPR, and still no start. and the only change in the reading on the scan gauge was the ICP is now reading 56. The gauge on the dash is reading normal oil pressure, but I haven't checked actual Low-end oil pressure.
Last month I replace the HPOP, and 1 faulty injector. Now I thinking wire loom, defective new IPR from the dealership or the new HPOP has failed.
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Will the wheels for 2012 fx4 fit my 2004 lariat 6 lugs?
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Having issue with his truck. He bought it 3 months ago and has no history. 166k. You now know as much as I do about the truck! He knows little about automobiles so fact finding has been difficult. I have done all my own work on countless US and foreign automobiles over the last 30 years and never take my vehicles anywhere. I will try to post as much detailed info as I can. I have read tons of posts now on various forums so I am up to speed on VCT and phasers.
This one seems similar, but not exactly the same symptoms which is why I am here. I have already pulled the VCTs and found the passenger side missing the top screen. I swapped them from side to side which made no difference. I checked ohms and they were at 15 which is normal from what I read. They were very clean and moved easily when I took them out so they were not gunked up so I don't think that's the problem. It idles very smoothly and isn't rough at all.
I have posted a video of the knocking/dieseling noise (link below) coming from the passenger side. The knocking starts as soon as the truck is started hot or cold (outside temps right now 70F-90F Houston). I can make the knock disappear by gently depressing the gas pedal going from idle of about 650/700 to maybe 750/800 and it will go away completely as long as I keep it gently depressed. As soon as I lift up it returns.
If I rev it up to 2000-3000 rpm it does not knock, however, as soon as I lift off quickly, it seems to knock at a high speed, hangs for a second and then knocks all the way back to idle. However, if I rev up and then lift off very slowly, it will not knock. I have tried to locate the exact location of the knock, but doesn't exactly seem right at the phaser, but actually back around the 2nd and 3rd spark plug area, but I can't tell exactly. I've had a couple people tell me the same when I asked them to tell me where its coming from. The noise is bouncing around in there so difficult to pinpoint exact area.
[URL] .....
I wanted to get some second opinions on what this could be so I know where to go next.
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what is the towing capacity for my truck. 2007 F-150 4X2, V-8, 4.6L engine Supercab.
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I have a 07 f150 getting 17 mpg in town, I would like to get 20 MPG in town, this is a 5 speed, i do not shift into 5th gear. Max in town in 40 MPH. I have 3.55... I was wondering would 3.27 getting me to that 20 MPG?
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I have a 2007 explorer that died while i was driving. We have changed the battery, alternator, spark plugs, fuel filter, and have checked the fuel pump, starter, throttle body. The truck cranks but wont kick over.
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Just got an 04 f150 STX 4.6L Regular cab.
Drove fine for a few months (she's a little rough, but she does the trick).
The other day, I went out to go to work, truck would start and run, won't come out of park. Both turn signal indicators on the dash are illuminated, turn signals, flashers, radio and Climate controls do not work.
Currently driving with the emergency shifter release pulled out and zip tied open. First thought was interlock switch, but I'm not sure if that would affect everything else.
This happened once before, and I pulled all the taillights and checked all fuses, then it just seemed to work again after flipping the rheostat for the interior/dash lights. didn't work this time around.
Dash is all torn apart - where to start looking?
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I just went out to move my truck to take out garbage and it cranks but doesn't start. It is 4.6L 4WD. I sprayed ether in intake no change. Checked all fuses all good. It has been raining pretty hard the last 3 days and it has been sitting in rain all 3 days. I checked for codes with a simple code scanner no codes. But the code scanner I used is not able to do KOEO or KOER tests. I know it needs new plugs but it has never sputtered or died on me. Has slight misfire but not engine stopping. I havnt had any check engine lights or problems before.
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First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
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