So I used my 07 F150 4x4 Lariat (5.4 l) yesterday and it ran with no problems. Today, I went to start it to go to work and it would crank over strong and fast but not run. I filled up two days ago and it has been below freezing the last couple of days. What to check as I currently have my wifes explorer for work tonight.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 F-150 5.4l that does not crank when you turn the key to start. I have tried jumping the starter over and it does crank after that but it will not start. I am completely stumped by this and I'm not sure what the problem is?
View 2 RepliesMuch done as well. I bought a powertrain and engine that are from a 2009 their both supercrew can I swap the cab easily are they compatible
View 4 RepliesI recently had a new coil pack put in my 2008 Santa Fe, about a week ago. Got up for work this morning and it would not turn over. It makes the clicking noise but will not catch. I jump started it and it worked. Got out of work and it wouldn't start again, got a jump start and took it to pep boys where they tested the battery as good. Could it be a shortage somewhere from the previous work done?
View 5 Replies2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
View 3 RepliesI have 04 6.0 with 247,000 on it. Just rebuilt all 8 injectors 3 months ago been running great since then. Jump into my truck yesterday morning go to turn the key over and all the lights on the dash came on for a second then they were off same with the fuel pump I only heard it for a second before turning off. The truck won't crank at all. My windows work, radio works and cab lights work. My headlights are out and my cab charm is not making any sound. I've check all my relays and fuses nothing bad there I've also replace my ignition switch and the ignition it self is good. I'm think it's a bad ground some where I just need finding the right one.
View 14 RepliesAs description says no start and crank . when tested battery is good . automatic trans push button starter??
View 2 Replies2008 F150 XLT 5.4L
1. Replaced fuse #9 for fuel pump.
2. Checked fuse #9 with check light, power to both sides is good
3. No check engine light
4. Battery is 1.5 years old. Just in case I charged for 1 hr.
5. Replaced fuel filter. Possible clog in fuel line.
6. Detached fuel line at fuel filter, turned key on and fuel came out of line. Seems like fuel pump is working.
7. Every time I can hear the fuel pump prim when I turn the key.
8. Relay#1 starter solenoid, I swapped with relay #2 and also replaced
9. FPDM replacement, I removed and it looked to be good.
10. Light checked all fuses, only fuse #5, fuse#35, and Fuse#36 did not have power. These fuses don't seem to have anything to do with starting or fuel to the engine.
11. Inertia switch check is good
Went to leave this morning and my '05 with 135K would crank but not start. Pulled air cleaner and sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired some so I had a feeling it was fuel related. Reset the fuel cut-out with no luck. I then remember seeing the issues on the forum about the fuel pump driver module corrosion and failures. Bought a new one at the local dealer, installed it and it fired right up.
Pics below...from the side it didn't look to bad but was holed through on the bottom. I highly recommend replacing this if you live in the rust belt.
I was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
View 1 Replies06 5.4 screw. This truck sits in the garage all week long as I drive a work van daily. When I take the truck out on the weekends it starts up normally at the house and when I stop someplace for a few minutes it starts right back up but if it sits for an hour or more it will crank over for 10-15 seconds, it does always start back up. It always runs and drives fine, it is all factory as far as the motor, intake, exhaust, tuner etc. What to do with it.
View 12 Replies2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
I have a 2006 Ford Expedition with 95,000 miles that has a crank but intermittent no start problem. When it does happen, it will eventually start after one to two tries. I don't have to wait to start it again and I don't have any problems while it is running. Two or three times in the past two months it will sputter out and die (even though I am pressing the gas pedal) right after starting. I'll crank it again and it starts just fine. I have no problems while driving at freeway speeds or around town.
I never had any check engine lights come on so I replaced the battery and the fuel filter. I finally got two codes and replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The codes went off after replacing these two parts. I can hear my fuel pump turn on every time I start the vehicle. I have even taken the entire fuse panel apart to check Relay 303 which is soldered into the circuit board. It is fine and so is every other fuse in the panel.
I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
View 3 RepliesWifes F150 was turned off while she went shopping when she came out it would not start would crank but would not run. Got it home hooked up my scanner, had no codes, but the Service Engine Soon was illuminated on dash. Just wondering if this has anything to do with the PCM. Has a 4.6L engine, 2X4.
View 5 RepliesChanged fuel relay and fuel pump and still not getting fuel.
View 6 RepliesI just got my TMPS light on this morning, check pressure all 4 tires are good, 35 PSI each, did not check spare tire, does spare tire had TMPS sensor? what do you think? is one of my sensor is bad?
View 5 RepliesI was driving down the freeway, headed up a hill and my truck started slowing down, rapidly, it eventually died. I put it in neutral and started it up, went about 1' and it died again. It did this several times. I was almost to the top of a hill and was hoping I could coast down, but didn't make it. It ended up dying completely.
I would turn the key to start it, and it would keep trying to turn over (even when i let go of the key. it was weird). Then after a few times of that, the battery just died.
I also noticed a smell. Like something burning. I noticed it off and on for the last week and asked a friend to check it out but he was like "oh its nothing".
Shut my truck off, now it won't start. Turn key to start position all proper lights appear on dash. No clicks,no nothing. Replaced a relay which owners manual shown as starter solenoid, man at auto parts said it was fried. Put new relay in still no change. checked everything I could find w/ ignition,starter,solenoid ,etc. fuses relays, according to pictures in owner's manual, they all appeared to be ok. Never,ever had any problems with this truck and charging system is working,IE: battery isn't shot.
View 3 RepliesMy 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
View 3 RepliesI have 07 sscrew with 5.4. 93,000 miles. At start up truck runs perfect. After 20-30 minutes of running motor will start to start running rough at low rpm. Diesel sound. I can rev up and motor clears up and idles fine. Should I replace VCT solenoids? Or phasers? Or both at one time??
View 14 Replies