Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Code P2135 - Electronic Throttle Body Replacement
Feb 26, 2014
Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not working with diagnosis. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. How to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims. [URL] .....
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While driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
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Back in March I started a thread regarding my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 which would not start after a spark plug change.
After a ton of research, & a smoke test on the intake I came to the conclusion that there was an issue with the throttle sensor as I unknowingly opened it when I was removing the intake to get to the last bolts behind the manifold. Shortly after my post, I decided to bite the bullet & buy a junkyard TB out of another Santa Fe 3.5.
After installing the new TB, the car now starts but runs extremely rich. I am now getting the code p2135 for Electronic Throttle Control System Malfunction.
Luckily up until this point I haven't needed the Santa Fe as it is mainly a winter vehicle. However, winter is quickly approaching & I would like to have her running before the snow starts to fly.
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I took it to a mechanic, he just told me to sprayed some carb cleaner on the throttle body and butterfly valve, and to wipe it with a rag. He did not hook a computer to it, to diagnose. and he said if the light comes on again to buy a new throttle body... I am thinking of getting throttle body sprayer taking off the throttle body replace the gasket, and hope this fixes my problem. I forgot to change my air filter btw.
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2005 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4 V8
So my battery died the other day when I was working on the radio and I ended up having to jump start the vehicle. After the jump start the Wrench light came on the truck or the ETC light. (After doing research I have discovered you are not supposed to jump start a vehicle with ETC)
I have taken the car to the auto parts store and it does not seem the code readers they have can read codes for the ETC light.
I have also disconnected the battery cable to try and reset the light, but it still always comes on about 10 seconds after starting the car.
I have had no issues with the vehicle despite the light. No rough idle, no starting issues, or acceleration issues at any speed. What I can do to resolve this light or what part I fried when I jump started the car?
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4x4 with 170,000 miles. its running a little rough so I thought I would clean the throttle body. do you clean it on the truck or remove it?
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read a few posts over the years relating to dirty throttle body, but never understood them. At 60000 miles, should this be attempted by the average guy or just leave it alone if it aint broke?
Any pics addressing where is it, what makes it dirty, how to open it, what to clean it with and how often as preventive maintenance?
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08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
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Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
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Got told by the dealer I need to replace my Mass Air Flow Sensor...to the tune of $657 dollars. And get a throttle body cleaning.
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On Saturday August 9th 2014 we were sitting at a stoplight when the engine on our 2008 Nissan Frontier suddenly accelerated to red line. I held on the brakes and the tires began to smoke. It finally occurred to me to turn off the key. That stopped the engine. I restarted the engine and we took the truck to the nearest Nissan dealer and told them about the problem and left the truck with them. The service manager said that he had never heard of this problem on a Nissan. Today, Monday August 11th we contacted the dealer and we were told that they couldn't duplicate the problem and there was nothing they could do. The truck is on extended warranty and they still don't want to deal with the problem. It seems obvious to us that the accelerator system should be replaced.
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Would a corroded throttle body cause a false code P0332 knock sensor.
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Started my car this morning to warm it up, idled for ~ 20min. weather conditions. I returned to my car, and it was misfiring and threw the p1545 throttle body code. There was a mk5 tsb for a similar problem involving wiring. 49k miles, stock tune, w CTS catted dp.
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I have a 1999 B5 Passat GLS V6. It's been running well, though I had to replace the CCM last winter due to water intrusion. Recently, the battery needed replacing, and I swapped it out, then the car wouldn't restart normally. I can get it to start by holding a bit of throttle, but it still runs rough and won't idle. The Check Engine Light is on, and my OBDII reader gives me the P1545 code. The car will run in 'limp mode', but it maxes at about 15mph, and I need to keep a little throttle on constantly to keep it from stalling. I think I could make it the mile or two to the local VW dealer, but maybe late at night, with no traffic - it's certainly not driving normally, or even just 'poorly'.
A bit of Googling says that I need to do the Throttle Body Adaptation by opening the hood (and maybe the driver's door, turning the key to the 'run' position without starting the car, and then waiting for the whining noise that indicates the throttle servos are running through their range, and then I'll be fine. However, this procedure has not worked. Am I doing it wrong? Or does it not work with this make/model/year?
I walk up to the car, unlock it, pull the hood lever in the footwell, go open the hood fully, then sit in the driver's seat, leave the driver's door open a bit, and turn the key to 'run', without going all the way to 'start'. I've tried this procedure after clearing the code with my OBD reader, with and without cycling the key to off, and various other ways. If I can't make this work, then it's off to the VAG-COM list, and see if there's someone in North Seattle who can assist. I can also take it to the dealer, but I'm not thrilled about trying to drive it even that far.
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I'm an Mk3 guy but I've gotten the hang of these beasts when I started to fix my brother's '99 B5 AEB. I got a VCDS scan from a friend and got this.
5 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High
P0123 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
I'm thinking either the throttle body is toast or maybe the ECU.
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I cleaned the MAF in my 2008 (58k miles) with CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the throttle body as well. There was a small puddle of oil in the intake manifold from the previous owner overfilling oil so I cleaned that up as well.
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Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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I have a 06 F150 and I am getting the P2207 code on it. Sounds like a O2 sensor has gone bad. From reading a little about it online, it sounds like there are (3) different ones on the truck. Is there any way of knowing which one has gone bad or do you just have to replace all of them? How hard of a job is it, do you need a special tool to remove the old sensor?
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2010 4x4 F150 Lariat 5.4 L, have been working on throttle response problems off and on for a few months. Initially got p0404 codes, and replaced the accel pedal assembly, now graduated to p2135 code, and stall at idle after a highway trip. Wondering if this may be a issue with aftermarket air filter causing misread errors on sensors. Had it to the dealer, with out any real remedy.
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