Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Electronic Throttle Body Replacement
Jan 3, 2010
While driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not working with diagnosis. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. How to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims. [URL] .....
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I took it to a mechanic, he just told me to sprayed some carb cleaner on the throttle body and butterfly valve, and to wipe it with a rag. He did not hook a computer to it, to diagnose. and he said if the light comes on again to buy a new throttle body... I am thinking of getting throttle body sprayer taking off the throttle body replace the gasket, and hope this fixes my problem. I forgot to change my air filter btw.
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2005 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4 V8
So my battery died the other day when I was working on the radio and I ended up having to jump start the vehicle. After the jump start the Wrench light came on the truck or the ETC light. (After doing research I have discovered you are not supposed to jump start a vehicle with ETC)
I have taken the car to the auto parts store and it does not seem the code readers they have can read codes for the ETC light.
I have also disconnected the battery cable to try and reset the light, but it still always comes on about 10 seconds after starting the car.
I have had no issues with the vehicle despite the light. No rough idle, no starting issues, or acceleration issues at any speed. What I can do to resolve this light or what part I fried when I jump started the car?
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4x4 with 170,000 miles. its running a little rough so I thought I would clean the throttle body. do you clean it on the truck or remove it?
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read a few posts over the years relating to dirty throttle body, but never understood them. At 60000 miles, should this be attempted by the average guy or just leave it alone if it aint broke?
Any pics addressing where is it, what makes it dirty, how to open it, what to clean it with and how often as preventive maintenance?
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Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
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Got told by the dealer I need to replace my Mass Air Flow Sensor...to the tune of $657 dollars. And get a throttle body cleaning.
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On Saturday August 9th 2014 we were sitting at a stoplight when the engine on our 2008 Nissan Frontier suddenly accelerated to red line. I held on the brakes and the tires began to smoke. It finally occurred to me to turn off the key. That stopped the engine. I restarted the engine and we took the truck to the nearest Nissan dealer and told them about the problem and left the truck with them. The service manager said that he had never heard of this problem on a Nissan. Today, Monday August 11th we contacted the dealer and we were told that they couldn't duplicate the problem and there was nothing they could do. The truck is on extended warranty and they still don't want to deal with the problem. It seems obvious to us that the accelerator system should be replaced.
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I cleaned the MAF in my 2008 (58k miles) with CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the throttle body as well. There was a small puddle of oil in the intake manifold from the previous owner overfilling oil so I cleaned that up as well.
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08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
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I've tried searching everywhere, but can't seem to find the torque for the 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the plastic intake. This is on a 2az-fe engine in my 2004 camry. I imagine the torque would be the same for any Scion, RAV4, etc. that has the same engine.
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Just purchased one of the members 2006 Prius. It wasn't in good condition and I knew that upfront. The price I paid justified the imperfections on the car. The car has 117k miles and it does burn oil. To the tune of 1 qt every 3000 miles according to the seller. However I believe it burns more than that amount now. I changed the oil and the dipstick reading was slightly below the minimum mark. The engine doesn't sound all that great but seems to run very well.
I was cleaning the throttle body today and noticed there is oil in that area. I looked down the throttle plate (not sure what that's called), and there was a layer of oil on the bottom. I know oil is not suppose to be in that area. What could this be?
The car had a leaking ice water pump and the coolant was a bit low, not sure if it could have overheated before.
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I have a 2004 V6 LE with about 135k miles. I cleaned the throttle body two weeks ago, just because I hadn't ever done it. It wasn't too dirty. Before the cleaning, it idled at < 1k revs. Now, when I start the engine cold, it revs at around 1500, sometimes higher. It goes back to normal after the engine warms up to operating temperature.
Also, I hear a very slight high-pitched whining (maybe hissing?) noise when I accelerate. The noise is more prominent when the engine is cold. I checked for vacuum leaks but couldn't find any.
It feels like I'm depressing the gas pedal a little bit when I have it in drive or reverse, and it wants to pull harder than usual. When I bring the car to a stop with light brake pressure, as it drops into first gear, the car gives a slight tug forward, again, as if the gas pedal is depressed. I mention this to show that it's not just an issue with the rpm at startup.
I suspect that the issue lies with the throttle position sensor, which I may have jostled when I moved the throttle valve. The method I used when cleaning was, I first tried opening the valve by hand with the ignition off, but the resistance was much higher than I had anticipated. So I did the key-in method by turning the ignition to ON and putting a brick on the gas pedal. There was a high-pitched whine coming from somewhere in the engine bay when the key was ON, which I had not noticed before; I wonder if that is normal.
This seems to be a rather common issue after cleaning the throttle body cleaning, but there doesn't seem to be any consensus solution besides to wait it out.
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2002 V6 Camry 145,000 miles, cleaned throttle body with TBC fluid, now starts runs for a few seconds and dies. In order to open the butterfly in cleaning I turned ign on and propped pedal down. After cleaning the car ran better but idle was high and a little erratic. I disconnected the neg batt for several hours, now it starts, but dies right away. In the cleaning process I had removed the throttle control sensor an reinstalled it. Can't keep it running long enough to adjust it.
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I cleaned my daughters throttle body on her 2005 prius. Sprayed it down on the vehicle trying to fix my P0505 code and now its idling high. Is there a learn procedure to reset this after service.
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So I installed two LED front turn signal bulbs and was going to add resistors until I just learned I could add an electronic flasher and get the same result. Now I already have a heavy duty flasher installed to make my lights flash correctly when towing my trailer. If I change that to a electronic flasher will my trailer lights still flash correctly or should I just leave the flasher alone and add resistors behind the front bulbs?
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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My 2005 F150 has developed an intermittent high pitch electronic tone that seems to be coming from the dash. Sometimes it comes on for a few seconds. Sometimes for several minutes. It never varies in pitch. It will occur even if the radio and fans are turned off. It will also occur if the engine is off and the key is just in the accessory position.
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I have a 2008 Ford E250 cargo van with the 4.6 V8 (186,000 miles) I drove through several puddles of high standing water last week, The last one did the job so to say. I thought I could make it through but I didn't. I managed to get the van through the puddle but not without ticking, The electronic throttle control light came on in addition to the check engine light (PO 103 code) The air filter got wet and the engine oil looks like milk chocolate.
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