Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Doing Brake Job - Rotor Removal Necessary?
Apr 22, 2012
I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
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I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
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08 XLT 4x4 Had a rotor slid freeze up last fall and eat a rotor. 39000 miles. Took apart and cleaned up and lubed, new pads and rotors both fronts. Now have pulsating pedal at 48000. Do the rear might need attention now or still the front? I never use the E brake.
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2008 F-150 2WD
How tight should the wheel bearing retaining nut (sealed bearing hubs) be torqued when replacing the front rotors?
Is there a spec, or just real good and tight since the bearings are sealed units.....
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How should the front rotors look for a 2000 2WD Excursion:
Photo #1 - With Studs:
OR
Photo #2 - Without Studs:
When I do searches online for parts, I get both kind.
Also, if with studs, do you have to remove the hub and cotter pin to remove the rotor?
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I need to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 Expedition and was going to turn the rotors also. It appears the rotor is held onto the axle by a large nut and not having done any brake jobs in several years, I've never run into a rear rotor that's bolted on. Is this the case and if so, what size socket do I need to get it off. Also, I was curious if there is anything else I need to know before I dive in. I heard it was difficult to get off.
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I'm in the process of changing pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. I've done all brakes and rotors, except that I'm stuck on the driver rear. The driver rear rotor won't come off!
Here's what I've done so far: I've used the metric jack bolts (I didn't buy the long ones) and that freed up some rust, with pb blaster. Now, the rotor comes out a bit, and I'm able to move it around, and the rotor comes forward a little bit towards me. It's so wobblily that it seems like it is about to come out. The rotor isn't solid stuck on, like most threads I've read.
While hammering, I think a piece of hardware of the parking brake fell down on the ground. Do u think that the parking brake is not allowing the rotor to come off? If so, I was reading online that there is some way to release the parking brake via a hole though the rotor, but I'm really not familiar with this. I'm not even sure if it's the parking brake that's not allowing the rotor to come off.
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I can't figure out how to get my front brake rotors off to replace them. I removed the caliper and thought the rotors should just come right off but they didn't? I then pulled the hub out and there was a retaining ring with a good size nut behind it , but you shouldn't have to remove the hubs to remove the brake rotors should you?
The stats of the truck are 04 f250 4wd w/manual hubs!
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How do you remove the front and rear rotors, Any DIY's out there I didn't see.
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2005 f150 4.6l up on jack stands right now with the oil drained and a few bolts out of the oil pan. It looks like I have to take the cross section out to get this to even move but I don't know if that's going to be enough. I'm sort of running trial by error here but hoping I don't do something I cant put back together. I'm assuming ill be okay to take the cross section out but I don't know if I need to move the differential to get it out. My oil pan gasket is leaking and I'm trying to replace it.
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Is it hard to remove the headlamp assembly. I am only asking because i am considering purchasing smoked/blackened headlamps and tailights on ebay.
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Whats the process on removing the projector hid lightbulb that has burned out its a 6000K?
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I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
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I want to remove my wiper cowl and paint it satin black to get rid of the ugly fade. Just want to know, is the cowl just held on by clips all the way around that you just pull up on and pop out?
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Sstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
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I have a 2006 f 150 5.4 ... Changed out all spark plugs, Never had a CEL since new. I disconnected the Battery, Removed the PCM (clearance problem)replaced the plugs, (of course broke 1) replaced PCM, hooked up battery. Truck runs smooth as can be. CEL is now on steady. Could this have happened because of PCM removal? Heard about flashing PCM? Or should i bring it to Auto zone for code reading?
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I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
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I've got my dash pulled apart but am unclear as to what I need to do with my steering wheel. I've got a 2007 F150 manual that says "remove steering column pinch bolt" along with a warning about not allowing the steering column shaft to rotate once the bolt is out. I believe I have identified the bolt (sits a few inches away from the steering shaft's u-joint on the side facing the driver -?).
How do I ensure the shaft doesn't rotate? Do I need to make the wheel lock before removing the bolt? Will the steering column drop down thereby allowing the dash to be pulled away from the firewall or do I need to remove additional bolts?
I saw this video : F150 Heater Core part 1 - YouTube
For 98 F150, but the differences in design are throwing me off a bit.
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I am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
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How do you remove the transmission lines from the radiator. I have to replace the radiator and don't want to mess up the lines.
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My uncle has an 05 F150 extended cab. When he bought it he put his license plate in the rear window until he could get some bolts for it. When it was there it fell between the back of the rear seat and the back of the cab. Currently he has one plate on the rear, but is worried he will get stopped for not having a front plate installed. So he knew I am an FTE member and I could find out how to remove the seat back. I have not tried to remove it nor seen if I could reach it.
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