How should the front rotors look for a 2000 2WD Excursion:
Photo #1 - With Studs:
OR
Photo #2 - Without Studs:
When I do searches online for parts, I get both kind.
Also, if with studs, do you have to remove the hub and cotter pin to remove the rotor?
I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
View 8 RepliesI can't figure out how to get my front brake rotors off to replace them. I removed the caliper and thought the rotors should just come right off but they didn't? I then pulled the hub out and there was a retaining ring with a good size nut behind it , but you shouldn't have to remove the hubs to remove the brake rotors should you?
The stats of the truck are 04 f250 4wd w/manual hubs!
How do you remove the front and rear rotors, Any DIY's out there I didn't see.
View 2 RepliesMy front dust shield on the driver's side is falling apart and scraping against my rotor. On the passenger side the dust shield is long gone.
My question is do I need the dust shields? Is there any issues without having them?
In a perfect world I'd like to replace them, but I have a feeling that this is going to be one of those dealer only items that's severely overpriced.
Seeing as I have the passenger side shield missing, and I never noticed anything before hand I'm thinking this is an item that might not be necessary.
Just purchased a 2000 V10 Limited with 117000 miles on it. Absolutely love it....just have a noise that is bugging the crap out of me. My husband doesn't think it is a big deal, but I would love to find out what it is without dropping 60 bucks at the dealer.
Whenever I turn a corner that is a tad bumpy it makes a bump type sound. It usually happens only when one side is going over the bump. It is pretty loud. IT will happen also when I am going down my dirt road without turning but when one tire goes over a bump the truck kind of shifts from side to side and the sound starts.
We have thought it could be the shocks or maybe the springs making that kind of sound. My husband is clueless and he knows alot about vehicles. I just hope my description wasn't too vague.
I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
I need to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 Expedition and was going to turn the rotors also. It appears the rotor is held onto the axle by a large nut and not having done any brake jobs in several years, I've never run into a rear rotor that's bolted on. Is this the case and if so, what size socket do I need to get it off. Also, I was curious if there is anything else I need to know before I dive in. I heard it was difficult to get off.
View 7 RepliesAny trick that they have used before for removing the Front Passenger Shock Top Nut without removing the A/C Accumulator? The Nut I need to remove is right underneath the A/C Accumulator and I can't get a 15mm Deep Socket on the nut so that I can use an air tool to take off the nut like I did on the Driver side. Is my only option to use a 15mm ratcheting box end wrench or remove the accumulator? On AllData, they show the pics of the Driver Side which is easy to access with just a swivel and a couple of extensions.
View 1 RepliesWell the old ball ball joints are out, new ones are in and now I'm working on removing gear assembly so I can change the inner axle seals. I've been trying to get it out. It haven't had much luck. I've loosened the cap bolts, prayed, pulled, hit, and still no luck. The only thing I've been successful at is screwing up the first few threads of the bolt holes for the passenger side cap. Tomorrow I'll be getting a tap and chasing the threads to clean them up. Hope I haven't screwed it up too bad. How to get the gear assembly out?
View 8 RepliesAs I was laying under my truck today I noticed a drip under the front differential, it looks like the cover is leaking by the factory RTV gasket. This is the 00' F150. How hard is it to remove these things? It looks like the front cover mount makes it difficult....
View 3 RepliesI was in the process of changing out rotor and pads and my caliper bracket bolts while loosening them. The weird part is the bolt was turning in the process. The passenger side was easy as pie. The drivers side has me stuck. I have tried to drill out the broken bolt but noting is working. I don't know where to go from here. I have already purchased a new caliper and the bracket that goes with it. I just need to get this old one off so I can move on.
View 14 Replies2008 F-150 2WD
How tight should the wheel bearing retaining nut (sealed bearing hubs) be torqued when replacing the front rotors?
Is there a spec, or just real good and tight since the bearings are sealed units.....
1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
View 3 RepliesI have the 2000 Ex. Tan leather seats. Two seats in the front. I need to add a third. I used to have a F150, that had a flip up/down center console. It was a seat when flipped up (the console became the seat back). What are my options with the Ex?
View 10 RepliesI'm on my second blower motor and fourth blower motor resistor since purchasing my 2000 Ex approximately 3 months ago. The fan returns after replacing the resistor but ultimately, fails after 2-3 weeks. What can I test, what can I do? The weather is changing quickly here in NOVA and being without a reliable heater is a non-starter for the family vehicle.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 Excusion V10 has original shocks and has no suspension mods. I am adding Rancho 9100 XL's soon as well as a swaybar to the rear. Is the clanking sound I am hearing over rough surfaces from the worn out shocks on front or something else like ball joints?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 EX and my front A/C blower wet the bed yesterday. I have checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood. I removed the blower motor and supplied 12vdc directly to it. Works like a champ. I metered the harness connector with the ignition on and the fan speed switch at all speeds, I get a range of 8.1 to 8.9vdc. I metered the fuse terminals as well and get a steady 13.2vdc. Before I rip the dash apart, what is the most common to fail the Blower Resistor, Fan Speed Switch, or Blower Motor. Or, do I have a completely different issue?
View 5 RepliesThe shop replacing my front tires advised me to replace my front brakes and rotors soon. I'm not a huge car repair person, but I remembered my father-in-law saying brakes aren't that bad to work with. The car is the "college beater" I bought ten years ago and I'm trying to keep investments in it minimal. I told the shop I would do the brakes myself. So I spent the weekend with the Haynes manual fussing with overtorqued lug nuts, rusted on rotors, tightly wedged guide pins, and outer pads that didn't seem to have room (not the piston side). Got everything assembled, bled the caliper that was disconnected, and took it for a test drive.
I got about 30 feet from the driveway before pulling back in. The front of the car was making an grumble sound and had an odd vibration like a flat tire. This was with brakes engaged and not engaged. The car stopped fine, but I probably didn't get above 10 mph. Is this part of the "bedding/seating" process? I put in new (cheap) rotors and pads. This afternoon I'll check to ensure the pads are in properly and aren't dragging on the rotor and that I have the wheels properly centered. Car is a 96 Ford Escort 2 door hatchback.
I was driving on a short business trip and I noticed what I thought at first was clutch smell, and then I realized I had a brake overheating. I pulled over and the front right rotor and hub were very hot. The caliber not so much. I let it cool while I was at the meeting. About 1 1/2 hours later I jacked the truck up to see if the bearings felt bad. Seemed fine so I drove home trying not to use the brakes and the heat did not return. I replace the caliber with one from Ford, but the only lines I could find were from CARQUEST and they are made by Raybestos. I am assuming that these lines are made in China.
I have been looking for some braided SS lines, but can't find any for a 2 wheel drive dually with 4 wheel ABS. Where I can order some better lines???
I hated my old 1994 F-350 that had those Metal/rubber pins, they would mess up and overheat also, I thought that my 2000 would not have this problem, I was wrong.
FYI, about a month ago I replaced the rear pads, and changed all the brake fluid with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3. I installed Akebono pads on the rear and just today Akebono on the problem front side. Will change out line and pads on driver side later this week. I hope I got if fixed.
I got new tires a few months ago and when the shop was putting them on they said the driver's side ball joints had a little wiggle in them. I've noticed it has gotten worse and I am going to change them prob next week. I am just going got do both sides while I have it torn apart. I have found some great info on how to do that. I also have noticed some ratcheting sounds from the drivers side hub when I start the truck and accelerate, and then it feels like there's a pop and the sounds goes away. Also if I flip on the 4x4 switch while there is the ratcheting sound it goes away. Is that just from a vacuum leak in the system? I don't know a whole lot about that, or what hoses are vacuum hoses etc.
I haven't really looked in the manual that much yet. My big question is this, I was driving down the freeway going about 70 when all of a sudden there was a gear grinding type sound, kinda like when you try to start a car that has already been started and the starter teeth make that grinding sound. Could it be that the axle has started to get some play from the ball joints getting worse and then it just reached the right RPM to cause a crazy vibration? Or could the 4x4 have a possible malfunction to where it tried to engage but the truck was going too fast? It hasn't happened again, but I have not gone 70 again either.