Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Loss Of MPG After Plug Change
Dec 24, 2011
I have an 04 F150 5.4 w/67k. Just changed the OE plugs. While I had it in the garage also cleaned the K&N air filter. Truck runs great but I lost about 3 MPG. I was getting 16 all around and am now getting about 13 under the same conditions. I bought a Purolator air filter and switched it with the K&N but there had been no difference. I used Champion plugs as the replacements. Truck ran great before and runs great now.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
View 1 Replies
I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
View 3 Replies
In the "Old days" I could pull the one-and-only coil wire and trigger the starter motor to rotate the converter so the plug was at the bottom. How do ya do this with COP engines so the engine does not start?
View 4 Replies
I just completed a successful second spark plug change, using Motorcraft SP515 plugs just like last time. After reconnecting battery and starting engine, it ran poorly throughout a short road test. Felt like it was skipping. Checked under the hood and found that the #2 fuel injector was disconnected, so I reconnected the injector.
I took another short road trip and it still ran poorly as if skipping. So, this time I disconnected the battery for several minutes while removing the #2 plug thinking I may possibly have fouled the plug by the injector not being connected. I also checked all of the other injector and coil connections. Reconnected battery and took another short trip. It still runs poorly. No codes yet.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2004 f150 LAriat supercab 5.4L triton with 120,000 mile on it. Without good reason, I let the dealer convince me to put new plugs in it. Ever since, I've had a serious smell in the cabin of gasoline and or exhaust, and a 2MPG drop in MPG. At first it smelled like gasoline. I took it back to the dealer and they said a connector had backed off, which is code for I don't even want to know what. They "fixed it" but the smell remained.
They then changed the rings on the fuel injectors. The smell got better, but there is more of an exhaust smell now. I checked many blogs about it and found several bloggers with almost the same exact situation. I suggested to the dealer that they need to check that the proper spark plugs were used and they were correctly seated. They of course confirmed this but God only knows if they actually checked.
I also looked up to see if there is a cabin filter on this vehicle and there seams to be some disagreement on the blogs about this fact as well. Now that the cold weather has arrived, I prefer not to take the cowl off or check the plugs myself until it gets a little warmer. The smell is noticeable most of the time and especially stopped at a light regardless of the heater or air conditioner. Should I be more worried about the smell or the fact that I actually took it to this dealer in the first place?
View 3 Replies
I have a Ford Taurus 2004 and would like to change its Spark Plug. I am looking for instructions for doing so as 3 of the spark plugs at the back of the engine are under the manifold air-intake. I am looking for step by step instructions of how to reach to the spark plugs to the back.
View 9 Replies
my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
View 2 Replies
Experienced lower mileage after changing the plugs at about 120k miles?
In the 10 months (23.6k miles) since I had the dealer change the plugs, I have averaged 43.3 mpg overall.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2007 Prius with ~180000, which runs great. The mechanic shop I used for oil change suggest me to change spark plug because they are dirty. After the change, I found I cannot step on the gas pedal too hard for acceleration. The car will hesitate, choking or die if I try to accelerate too fast. But if I step on the gas pedal gently, and let it reach the desired speed in a slower way, it has no issue. I went back to the shop and they replaced with another set of 4 plugs, and no improvement. I checked air intake tube and it looks no leak, but really old. Other than that, the car runs great.
View 19 Replies
2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
View 4 Replies
I have had my 2004 since it was new and recently I have had a power loss problem from 0-40 mph. I have taken it to 3 shops and they have tried everything to figure out why I have this problem, I was told that the coils needed to be replaced and that did nothing, I have changed the fuel filter external to the tank, replaced the catalytic converters because I was told they were plugged up, the 02 sensor was replaced and all of this has not worked so I took it to the Ford dealer and they could not find the problem either. The problem worsens with higher temperatures outside... I love my truck but I am getting real tired of chasing my tail.
View 14 Replies
Had a spark plug sleeve come out, the part with the hex head to turn the whole thing. Wonder if JB Weld put on the inside of this sleeve and placed back over the plug will hold enough to turn the plug and get it out after some more pb blaster?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 SCREW with the 5.4 Triton, I religiously change my oil at 3000 mile intervals, constantly checking level between changes. Motorcraft 5w-20 , 7 quarts with Motorcraft filter, my level is always full and I never add between changes. When I change the oil I always put the waste oil back into the new oil containers. So, here is the question... why do I only get 5 quarts of old oil out of the engine? I have had the truck for 5 years, no issues other than what we all experience....... I have asked around different places and got the deer in the headlights look every time.
View 8 Replies
Have 146k on an 05 SuperCrew, 4.6 V8, it's like my right arm! Don't know what I'd do without it. The other night, at interstate speed, something "popped" and the check engine light came on and it started missing. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, he swapped coil packs with no change, pulled the #6 plug and found it wet with antifreeze. No water in oil, no overheating, no other signs of head or gasket failure.......I'm tempted to put some stop-leak in it and change the plug.......
View 6 Replies
I was getting a misfire in #4 cyl. Couldn't afford to change all my plugs, so I replaced the one that was missing. Two weeks went by, truck ran fine, then it started missing really hard (same cyl #4). Thought my COP was bad, so replaced that and the boot.
Drove my truck to work last night, seemed to run fine, but this morning, it started to sputter again around 45-55. Plug in my OBD2 and it wasn't throwing any codes, seemed to idle just fine.
When I got home I put it park and revved the engine a little bit. Got it around 2500 rpm and it sounded like I have a air leak in a way. What do at this point. It is a 2007 F150 5.4 triton with 104xxx on it.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2006 5.4L F150. I am encountering a misfire on the #3 plug. The only OBD error messages I receive are from misfire on #3, no other faults.
I have checked the plug, and it looks pretty good. I have recently changed all COPs. I have removed the injector rail and checked and cleaned all injectors. I have removed the wire connector from COPs and checked the voltage while the vehicle is running.
The #3 connector is measuring around 13.6V ... The other COP connectors I measure 0.17V to 0.4V ....
It appears this low volt reading is due to the neg signal wire closing and opening. I brought it in to a mechanic and he indicated the computer needs to be replaced, no signal was getting to COP. So this appears where I am at.
I have hence gotten a LED test light and verified the other COP connector wires cause the test light to flash, while the #3 COP wire connection to just stay on all the time, no blink signal. What the problem is?
The engine sounds pretty good, maybe a slight tick sound. But the misfire wobble is apparent. I figure I will change the computer at this point, since it appears this is where the issue is.
What else could interfere with the COP neg signal? It is pretty clean in the engine compartment, and no visible problems with the wires fraying on the accumulator, as I have read reports happening.
Is it the cam that makes this negative signal wire open and close?
View 3 Replies
I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
View 6 Replies
I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
View 12 Replies
I just bought a 2005 5.4L F-150 and need to do an oil change. The manual calls for an FL-820S Motorcraft filter. I bought one and it doesn't match up. The filter that is currently on the truck is smaller in diameter and a little longer. There's no numbers or manufacturer on it. What's up? What filter do I need?
View 14 Replies
I just got the spark plugs changed in my Ford F-150 the other day for a misfire problem. Misfire is gone now. But, as I was testing the truck to see how it performed after the spark plug change, I noticed that as it was raising speed with my foot to the mat, the engine felt as if I was slightly letting off the accelerator and then slowly pushing the pedal back to the floor. It loses power as if you're getting ready to slow down for something and then slowly the power comes back and it does it off and on throughout a WOT run from lets say 40-75 MPH.
2007 Ford F-150 SuperCab, Lariat, 4X2, 5.4L 3V.
View 1 Replies
