I'm having trouble with my 2004 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton V8 starting, when i try to start it i have to move the shifter all the way down and up multiple times with the key open in order to start the truck. I don't what it is I think it may be the Neutral Safety Switch or Shifter cable.
View 3 RepliesMy F150 4X4 would not start a few days ago, after only having turned it off a few minutes prior. The gauges would sweep wildly and get stuck at various positions. I checked the fuses and they were fine, then unplugged the battery for a bit and it started back up. Occasionally it won't start and i'll have to disconnect the battery again to get it to start.
I'm still having some strange electrical issues though. The radio no longer turns on unless the ignition is turned to AUX. My back up alarm for going in reverse doesn't come on anymore. The gauges take at least 10 seconds to wake up after starting the truck. The dashboard blinker indicators will randomly stop blinking or making any noise. I was thinking it could be the computer, but could it be something else?
Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
I have a 2006 f150 fx4 4x4. I drove it home from work yesterday and it ran and drove just fine. I got up this morning to go to work and turn the key but the engine won't fire. I turns over just fine. I turn the key to release the trans to put it in neutral to see if it would start like that and the shifter is stuck. I button in the front will not go in. I tried lifting the rear tires off the ground to see if I could free the trans.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 expedition wont go into any gear the shifter will not move I changed the stop light brake switch and a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown and also the check engine light is on now too this was after I parked it I also changed a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown out but it still don't work the only way I can get it into gear is to push the little button under steering wheel...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 I4 camry. I recently ran out of gas and decided to keep trying to see maybe if the car would turn on. After all that i gave up cranking the car on and decided to push to a gas station. After putting in gas (93 octane) I realized i have my check engine light on and another light which depicts a car with 2 swiggly lines.What that light means but its to the right of of lcd display which shows your mileage. I am taking the car tomorrow to the dealership but I was wondering is there any way i can check the codes without an obd scanner (the thing that checks for codes). Do you think I ruined my engine after trying to start the car multiple times without gas?
View 5 RepliesI drive a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. The car has had some electrical problems going back about a year and a few months that I have neglected to fix. The first problem was with the shifter not being able to move out of park without hitting the button inside the center console to do a shift lock override, which started last August.
The second problem was with the ignition not being able to release the key without hitting a switch inside the ignition, which started back in the Spring. I have just been rolling along promising to eventually address those, but yesterday the car radio stopped functioning. Then this morning the car would not start.
The electrical system comes on just fine (save the radio), but when I go to start it the car just clicks over. I did not leave any lights or switches on, so I am assuming it must be some sort of problem with the electrical system.
Corolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
View 5 RepliesI most recently drove my 2006 Prius around on Saturday Feb. 1, with no problems at all. I went out of town for a couple of days, and returned this afternoon to a car that will not start. I stepped on the brake, pushed Power, and things lit up, the "Ready" light flashed a few times but then went off. Power button light stayed orange.
Several warning lights on dash stayed on (!)/ABS/VSC/traction control, and a message came on the screen saying something about a problem with "P" parking, and that it should be parked level and the parking brake applied. It is sitting level with the parking brake applied already. Also, the door ajar warning light and beep start as soon as you open the car door to get in.
I'm thinking from what I've read that my 12v battery has died/is dying. I'm the original owner, bought car in March 2006, and it has just under 61,000 miles on it.
Completely stock, no swap. No motor noise when I click the buttons on forward, back, up or down. Nothing. Everything looks connected under the seat but not entirely sure. Fuse 1 and 44 are good on the side of the dash. This is for a 2003 Wagon with GLX interior and most upgrades from the factory. I need to move the seat in order to remove the center console/radio cage as it's blocking the armrest nut.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
when unlocking the car, half of the time the passenger front and back door do not open from the outside even though the little door opening/closing pin has jumped up into the open position. then i need to give the door a good push near the lock , i can hear a little click and then the door opens.
how to fix this?
I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
I just got a 2004 f-150 STX 4x4. It has floor shifter for the 4 wheel drive. I can shift it into 4x4 low and that light will come on but I can not get it to go into 4x4 hi when I try to slide the shifter in place the light will flash on but I can not keep it on. Am I doing something wrong?
View 8 RepliesI changed out the bad bulb for a new 194 LED bulb and it still doesn't work. So it leads me to believe its a bad fuse. I'm looking at my Manual and no where do I see the fuse location for the Shifter light. The light that lights of the shifter so you can see if your in Drive or Reverse or etc... I have a 2004 Ford F150 Supercrew.
View 4 RepliesApparently yesterday (no known reason) my sons truck started to develop a miss (so it feels like to me).
2005 f150 5.4 auto 215000km 4x4 stx. No specific cylinder codes. All general codes.
P1000
P1464
P1550
P1703
P1780
None of which I can see causing the miss. No check engine lite, no other codes. Not sure what to look at next. I am starting to disconnect the coil packs one at a time and see if I can pin down the cylinder.
Drove to work in 6" of snow in 4H with no issues. Shifted back into 2H for drive home as roads were clear with no issues. Went to shift into 4H moments ago and floor shifter will not move!
View 1 RepliesThe chrome shift cap came off and I lost it. Accidentally threw it away somehow. Looks like crap now!
Someone had posted that they had gotten a replacement from their dealer. I went to my dealer and all he would sell me was THE WHOLE SHIFT UNIT. All I need is to pop the little cap on top of the shifter, not replace the entire unit.
What I was wondering is if you have gotten just the cap from your dealer, what might the part number be so I can get one.
I can't get my shifter to move out of park. I took it in and they replaced the brake switch and although that seemed to fix it it started up again after a week of use. Now I'm stuck in my driveway. What's causing this?
View 13 RepliesSo lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
View 7 Replies