Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Jerked While Changing Lane - Felt Like Being Rear Ended?
Mar 10, 2012
2010 f150 supercrew fx4
While driving down the highway yesterday at about 65mph I went to change lanes. As I was changing lanes I gave it a little gas. About half way through the lane change truck jerked like I had just been rear ended. I immediately checked my mirrors to see if I changed lanes in front of some body. No one was around. Truck still ran the same. Everything I'be read seems like similar thing happen to others at slower speed.
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2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
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I have a 2009 f150 platinum and have been told both sides of the story now... that the front differential is sealed and need not be changed, and also that it is unsealed and can be changed. While asking this question I might as well lump in the rear differential as well. Are they both sealed or unsealed and need to be changed???
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My new to me 2010 f150 4x4 superCrew Lariat is great. Got the 6spd tranny. Do a lot of maint. Myself and wanting to change tranny fluid since I hit 90k. Didn't see a dipstick. Called the stealership and they told me I can't do the change n/c I need certain equipment.
Are there any write ups? Are there any more surprises with this truck, like routine maint issues that I need to be aware of? I plan on doing diff fluid changes. Is this possible?
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I have an 09 F150 4x4 with 116,000 miles on the clock. I am having an issue with moderate acceleration and felt mostly in 3rd gear. I changed the spark plugs at 106,000 miles with OEM replacements. I have had this issue since about 80,000 miles but intermittently. It seems its starting to get worse as time goes by. The problem is both cold or warm and doesn't happen all the time but now about 80%. Light acceleration is good and full acceleration is great with no issues.
Feels more like running out of fuel but not to the point of stumbling. Possible misfire that is not being detected. No check engine light lit. Tranny shifts perfect. Idles extremely smooth. I was thinking a coil problem but with no engine light, I don't want to try to guess which one. So far, this truck has been awesome and has needed nothing but tires and routine maintenance. I pull trailers consistently and this beast is not abused nor babied.
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I purchased a 2011 F150 XLT 4X4 Super Crew in early January, since then I have had it into the dealership many times to correct an annoying shudder that can be seen (looking at the steering wheel) and felt as the truck accelerates. The shudder happens around 5 kph or 3 mph and then quickly disappears as you accelerate.
This is extremely annoying in stop and go traffic and is more readily felt if driving up hill. The dealer tried shims in the differential, Installed a new rear drive shaft, U joints and the last attempt was a complete rear end all to no avail.
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5.0L ... I'm having one of those moments, you know after you do a mod to your truck and all of a sudden you notice something about your truck that could have been there all along but now you notice it as something new? Ok earlier in the week I had my exhaust resonator removed and replaced with a straight-pipe by a reputable exhaust shop. IMO the work looks to be pretty good for what it is.
That said I have always been nervous about getting exhaust work on any vehicle because it always seems like tampering with or removing the OEM plumbing for aftermarket or custom work tends to develop a vibration at some point.
So here is what I've noticed over the last couple days, when driving my truck it is extremely smooth, almost like glass. When I come to a complete stop say at a traffic light about 1-2 seconds after making the complete stop I feel this slight harmonic vibration in the steering wheel. For those of you that have an iphone it would be like having your phone bolted to the steering shaft somewhere and it on constant vibration if that makes sense.
Just to prove it only happens when I'm sitting still and idling in (D)rive I sat in my driveway with the truck idling, set the park brake and released the brake pedal holding the truck in place in (D)rive with the parking brake. No vibration, smooth as glass engine idle, as soon as I put my foot back on the brake pedal the vibration comes back. It's as if the extra draw of applying the brakes puts an extra load on some sort of accesory drive or componant under the hood and the result is this harmonic vibration.
Just so everyone knows, the vibration is very noticeable to me because I drive the truck daily, most people wouldn't pick it out if I didn't tell them first. Case in point if my wife drives the truck she can't feel it unless I tell her what to look for. There are going to be some of you that just say my truck doesn't do this and has had a smooth idle for XX,XXX miles I believe you but let me know now that I have explained exactly what to look for. Like I said for all I know it's done this since day one.
I have a feeling that the straight pipe might have been welded in slightly longer than the oem section that was removed thus putting more tention on the exhaust and engine if that makes sense, the end result being a slight vibration?? I know that manufactures put these little rubber bushings along the exhaust system on cars/ truck to absorb harmonic vibrations and for all I know my resonator might have been designed to balance out harmonic vibes in the exhaust system as well as quiet down the exhaust.
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I have an issue with my new 2011 F150 FX4 super crew with 5.0. I put a Rough Country level kit on the front struts which raised it 2.5 inches and looks great. The issue is that there is a low speed knock heard on the left side and felt through to the steering wheel. The truck has been aligned to factory specs. all bolts have been tightened, the strut has been taken off to check the top mounting bolts. Nothing appears to loose. Can't find anything. Am I forgetting something. Rough Country said it can't be the kit. It has bee used for sometime with no issues.
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I can't believe how rusty my rear end is with 17000 miles? It's not flaking off rusty but it's not black anymore, is this bad ? I was thinking of painting it , but not sure if it's worth it????
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Both my rear doors in my 2010 F150 supercrew wont open from the outside. Was wondering, is there was a DIY fix?
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Just got a 2010 lariat supercrew...I put 1900 miles on it so far. When slowly letting off the accelerator (doing between 20-30 mph and between 1000-1500 rpm) there is a distinct rubbing sound for about 1-2 seconds...it is now sounding more like grinding now...took it to the shop today...(they couldn't duplicate (because service rep documented 60 mph instead of the 20-30 mph...went back at the end of the day to ride with the tech, and i was able to duplicate so now they have something to work with....also the noise happens mostly when the path of travel is either level road or slight to great incline..it has not happened on a down slope....
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I just purchased a used 2010 fx2 screw with 5.4 and 6-speed auto. How can I find out what rear gear ratio the truck has? do I have to contact a dealer to find this out or are their any web based sites that can decode the vin? Is the gear ratio marked on the truck anywhere?
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2010 f150 4x4... Whether I'm in 4wd or 2wd when I turn at low speed something in the rear has slow clunking but clears out after a few feet of going straight. This occurs with or without a trailer behind me. Just bought this truck a week ago m noticed it about the third time I drive it.
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I was loading some 2x4's and one hit the rear tail light housing and broke it easily. Hard to believe it broke so easy. Will be picking up a new one at the dealer! Wish it was made out of high impact plastic . You can't just get the clear cover. You have the buy the whole unit.
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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How do you change the number of times the lane change blinker blinks. Default is 3. Manual says it can be changed to 5 or 7. Service dept. couldn't do it.
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I purchased a trailer recently and decided to change the wiring from 4 wire to a 7 wire. I matched up one for one and blew a fuse on the truck. Looking at my manual there are a number of fuses related to the towing or trailer hitch wiring.
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I am changing my oil for the first time on my 2011 F-150 4X4 with the 5.0 V8 and needed info about the location of the oil drain plug or a pic of it along with the plug size.
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After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
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I recently purchased my 2011 F150, which is the first new vehicle I've ever owned. I have always changed my own oil, and if possible I would like to continue doing this myself. My only concern is any potential warranty claims down the road.
If I change my own oil can Ford blame any drivetrain failures on me? What should I do to maintain records of my own maintenance to prove I've changed the oil regularly?
I am aware that I must use synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter.
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