My 2010 F-150 5.4 L has developed a misfire. I don't have the codes right now but can get them. Replaced all plugs and 3 of the 8 cops. Misfires right after startup but as it warms up tends to smooth out. When it is acting up it almost stalls out at stops. Where to next?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
My 2010 F150 randomly feels like I'm driving over the rumble strips as well as a small jerk like there is a cylinder misfire. If keep it at constant speed it still happens, but under cruise control it stops. Even when load increases like going up a hill.
View 14 RepliesI have recently purchased a 2012 facelift Tiguan diesel and it has a running fault. When starting the engine, 50% of the time it starts fine, 50% of the time it starts with a "misfire" and sputters for a short while (5-6 seconds) then stalls. If you Rev it a bit while it is sputtering then it clears the sputter and doesn't stall. It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Once it's running fine then the misfire never returns until you shut off the engine and then try to restart. The start stop also fails to cut in and I'm wondering if this could be linked. It had a new battery and alternator fitted a few months ago but a non start stop battery was fitted. This has now been changed for the correct battery but both problems still persist.
View 2 RepliesI did not want to high jack the threat about the blower motor stuck on high, but on rare occasions my blower will quit all together if it is turned up too quickly. I can still hear the compressor clicking on and off, but no air moving. after waiting a few minutes it will work fine if you adjust the blower control slowly.
My truck is a 2012 lariat supercrew with navi and dual climate controls. oh and i believe i have about 300 miles left on warranty, but it is not doing it on a regular basis, i doubt the local ford dealership will repair it.
I've got a 2011 F-150 FX4 Supercab with the 5.0L.
I've noticed that very seldom when starting it up, something under the hood squelch's very briefly. The trucks got 3019.0 miles on it as I write this letter. The actual noise itself come's and goes in less than 1/2 a second, and the trucks only made this noise 3 times during the 3000 miles I've owned it, and all the times have been fairly far apart.
I was wondering if this would be cause for concern? My old 1990 F-150 use to do this, but its issue was the bearings going out in the alternator. With only 3000 miles on my new truck the bearings should be a non-issue. Everything should be a non-issue for that matter. I'm not actually all that concerned about it, as I said in 3000 miles its only happened about 3 times...So once every thousand miles or so. And as I said the noise comes and goes in less than a second, and truck always runs just fine. Its never driven any differently.
Could this be attributed to all the heat we have been having lately? I live West Texas and right now 105 to 110 degree days are pretty much the norm, and have been for almost 2 months now. Could the excessive heat cause any to screech like that? And of course the truck has not been overheated, nor has it shown any signs of overheating.
This engine really puts out the ponys. it tows ok but not like my diesel. The twin turbo does not get the claimed fuel economy. And now the start up rattle. I seem to be getting the run around on the repair.
View 3 RepliesStill considering the change from my '08 F250 to a newer F150 with the EcoBoost. I have been driving as many of them as I can to get a feel for them. My current question is this: if one exhibits the dreaded rattle at cold startup, does it always get worse with more time/miles? I found another one that I'm pretty happy with overall, but it does have the startup rattle for about a second at cold start, and only at cold start. Is it worth the gamble, or should I keep looking? It's got about 108k miles and is otherwise in fantastic condition...
View 8 Replies2013 3.5 Ecoboost. Starting the truck first thing in the morning, it idles very rough for about 30 seconds and then smoothes out. If I drop it into gear it stays rough as I back out of the driveway. Once underway it runs fine and otherwise runs/idles very smooth for the rest of the day. Doesn't appear to have any other symptoms of spark plugs/boots misfire so I'm thinking it might be something else?
On my old 02 F150 with the 5.4 this usually happened when the Idle air control (IAC) would get plugged up with carbon. I'd clean it and the idle would smooth out. This truck doesn't appear to have one.
Spark plugs are on my list for the near future. 47k on the truck so they are almost geting due. Trying to get my superduty sold before I spend a lot of time on this truck.
My 2012 ford F150 Eco boost 3.5 l stalls when I am accelerating. What could be the cause? I have replaced the, Spark plugs, coils, air filter, oil, and cleaned the injectors.
View 2 Replies2014 ecoboost Supercrew 4x4 20k miles
It happened at the most inopportune time. I was in the left lane of a two lane road passing a slow truck on a somewhat busy road and it happened. Shudder, loss of power, check engine light on, limp mode. I was next to the cab of the truck when it happened and had to slow and get behind him to pull over and shut it down.
Potentially a dangerous situation.
I rarely step on it, but when I do, I expect it to work.
I baby this truck, almost 18 mpg lifetime average for the 20k miles on this truck.
I took it directly to the dealer to get checked out.
Codes P0305 and P0306.
Checked for carbon tracking on plugs, none found.
Performed a power balance and coil stress test, no problem found.
Removed CAC deflector for inspection, no issues found.
Updated PCM to latest calibration.
I've been chasing this misfire for about two months now. I have changed all eight plugs, changed the coil and even change head gaskets. After all of that I'm still getting a misfire on cyl3 code. I've inspected the resistance from the fuel injectors, they are all about 12ohms. What else do I need to check before I sell this thing off?
Background: It has just under 130k miles and I have had zero problems until it got cold this season. Once the mornings hit about 20F degrees I had a check engine light come on. Maybe a little bit of a shake at first but after it warms up it drives excellent. It has never sounded like there is a misfire, it has always ran smooth.
Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
View 3 RepliesStart from the beginning 2011 screw 4X4 ecoboost 46,000 miles, under wide open throttle and over 3,500 rpm I'm getting a misfire, diagnosis "I usually chicken out when I hit 80+ in 3rd". Misfire occurs in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd don't have enough road to try a higher speed or gear.
View 3 RepliesWas driving to Airport yesterday and out of nowhere got the flashing check engine and shudder/limp mode while trying to merge/accelerate onto the onramp (had to gun it to go around someone who decided to stop on the onramp for no reason). Let off the gas and the blinking went away. Upon leaving the airport I was accelerating again at highway speed to pass and got the blinking light and then a solid CEL. Found my way to a Autozone and got the code read. P0301 Cylinder#1 Misfire. Was suggested to change COP and plug.
Changed COP on the spot and had to drive it home to my tools to install plug. Thought maybe that since the CEL was still on solid after changing that the code needed to be cleared for the PCM to function normally again. Still have shudder when accelerating hard, so thought it might have been injectors so got cleaning service done at Goodyear. Still have the issue. Disconnected battery and performed IDLE relearn just now and it still is shuddering upon hard acceleration. Stumbled across TSB 12-6-4 which speaks to my symptoms.......I do not have the plate which in turn would imply I do not have the PCM update it references.
I have not noticed a misfire nor had an acceleration issue before so this was a surprise to come out of nowhere. I'm going to be calling my dealership in the morning.
A close friend of mine just traded in his '04 Tacoma with ~240k miles on a 2011 F-150 EcoBoost XLT Screw 6.5' bed w/ 3.73's. Truck has ~75k miles He went the EB route after I was having the tick/tap issue with my 5.0 (yes... a 5.0 guy talked someone into the EB ). Actually was my first time in an EcoBoost truck and MAN is that thing quick, especially with the 3.73s.
Truck is very clean inside and out and was well cared for. He did throw a blinking CEL light (assume misfire) after a rainy highway trip, having to tip into the throttle to pass someone. I had already mentioned that might happen so he knew to expect it.
We are planning to do anything "non invasive" to prevent the issue (e.g. no IC drilling). We plan to swap out plugs and boots. Looks like plugs should be Motorcraft SP534 gapped to .030 and boots are Motorcraft WR6135.
What are the torque spec for the EB plugs? For my 5.0, spec is 124 in-lb. Looking like 133 in-lb from a couple of sources. Is there anything else we should be doing to prevent a misfire CEL in the future? He doesn't baby the thing and the CEL only happened the one time so far.
What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
View 6 RepliesI just got the car on Monday and haven't had a chance to go through everything, but plan to this weekend. I've read on how to disengage the traction control, but my problem is the light doesn't come on in the dash on startup. I'm assuming a burnt out light, but I don't that that is a normal thing.
View 14 RepliesJust wanted to let know that the mildew smell i had in my '10 ISF was resolved with a simple spray into the a/c intake vents at the bottom of the windshield. Changing the cabin filter and lysol didnt do squat. its called "a/c treatment spray" available at Lexus or at the auto stores.
View 14 RepliesMy 2006 Mountaineer 4.6 is ticking at start up, and it gets quieter after about 30 seconds. Does this sounds like the cam phaser?
View 3 RepliesMy 2010 LE has been having this issue for a little while now. Whenever I start up the car when the engine is still warm, (an hour or two after initially driving it), the engine will sputter for around 3-4 seconds, but will always start up. On cold starts, like every morning, the car will start normally. There are no noticeable rpm problems while driving either.
View 2 Replies