My 2010 F150 randomly feels like I'm driving over the rumble strips as well as a small jerk like there is a cylinder misfire. If keep it at constant speed it still happens, but under cruise control it stops. Even when load increases like going up a hill.
View 14 RepliesI hooked up the boat and went out for a tow. I ended up getting a pretty good vibration and thought maybe it was time for balancing the trailer tires. As it turns out I needed two new tires as they were at the wear bars (cheap crappy bias ply tires) so I ended up buying 4 trailer tire radials and had them balanced.
As it turns out I have what I guess is a shudder at slow speeds and also can feel it at other speeds as well. A way to explain it is that it sort of feels like you are driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road but really small ones.
I've looked at all the shudder issues thru the forums and mine seems a little different. Mine feels like I'm riding over tiny rumble strips or like pebbles and at all speeds. I just got new tires and a front end alignment. mine seems to do a little bit of that shudder thing but all the time. I bought it used from a honda dealer with 48k on it. I have to take it to them for the warranty they gave me. Curious how that's going to work out. 2009 5.4 3.55 rear and 157" wb. 4x4.
View 3 RepliesProblem: Vibration together with a noise that sounds abrasive and destructive. Mechanics have failed me.
It feels like driving over the intense short rumble strips that are meant to tell you when a wheel is outside the traffic lane. I feel and hear it in any gear, whether I am moving or not, but hardly at all in Park or Neutral, and hardly at all when cruising at high speeds. It is worst on the first drive of the day - much less on subsequent drives, even if the engine has been allowed to cool fully.
History: When this began, less than 600 miles ago, I had the transmission checked, where I had warranty coverage.
Found: No transmission trouble but a broken engine mount.
I had the engine mount replaced (and two gaskets replaced because they had started to leak), together with Virginia's mandated annual inspection - passed.
Vibration lessened but continued and started to worsen. Within 3 days the engine stalled in traffic and THE NEXT DAY the "check engine" light came on. I went back to the same place. The ignition coil and spark plugs were replaced. Power returned, and no stalling or warning light, but the vibration persisted.
One mechanic baffled: "What do you expect with 101K mileage and 16 valves?" - But this came up too fast to be ordinary wear and tear. What should I do?
2.0L Zetec E engine.
Had the torque converter replaced twice on my 2007 Explorer Limited last December. Ford dealer did it once and then there were still issues so they had to replace it again. All seemed fishy to me.
Now a new issue that sounds like driving over rumble strips. Torque converter?
I have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
I have a 02 durango. Yesterday once i was accelerating over 30 it started feeling like i was driving over rumble strips a little. It felt like it was towards the back. I drove 15 miles to the store and back. On the way home it died down and went away. Today I started driving to town and it is doing it at all speeds. The vibration doesn't seem to change with speed but is much more intense. Only happens when I give it gas. I have searched many forums and not sure where to start? I've read everything from torque converter to solonoids to u-joints, axle bearings, engine problems, or a bad differential.
View 5 RepliesI have a 09 Subaru Forester with 66k miles that vibrates like it is going over rumble strips when it up shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. It occurs under normal (not brisk) acceleration. I had the trans fluid changed at both the 30k and 60k services. I have owned this since new. It began before the 60k service. Also, sometimes the tach will increase revs during this as well. I don't know if this next thing is related but when I once need to merge quickly into interstate traffic I gave it a good amount of throttle and the tach revs increased but the trans did not follow with an immediate down shift.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Infiniti G35 has 144,000 miles, two new rear tires and two good front tires. Sometimes, and I cannot nail down or reproduce-on-demand this situation, my car will suddenly begin to vibrate as if I'm driving over a smaller version of those rumble strips on the side of the road. The vibration continues when I take my foot off the accelerator, and will continue at a slower rate as I decelerate until I stop. Often it seems that when I come to a dead stop and accelerate again, the vibration stops, but other times it will continue as I accelerate.
But what's really odd is other times I'll just be cruising along and the vibration will begin, keep vibrating for a few miles, then peter out and disappear. I haven't totally nailed down whether or not braking affects it, but if pressed I would say that I would use the brakes at least once before it disappears. Also, it only seems to begin once I hit 50-60 mph, but again, it doesn't happen every time I go this speed. Other times this car drives incredible and makes the road feel as smooth as glass.
I haven't taken it to the shop because I'm sure they won't be able to reproduce it.
I've been chasing this misfire for about two months now. I have changed all eight plugs, changed the coil and even change head gaskets. After all of that I'm still getting a misfire on cyl3 code. I've inspected the resistance from the fuel injectors, they are all about 12ohms. What else do I need to check before I sell this thing off?
Background: It has just under 130k miles and I have had zero problems until it got cold this season. Once the mornings hit about 20F degrees I had a check engine light come on. Maybe a little bit of a shake at first but after it warms up it drives excellent. It has never sounded like there is a misfire, it has always ran smooth.
I have a '98 Ranger 4.0L SuperCab 4x4 Automatic
The other day i was driving, around 40 MPH and suddenly the truck felt like I hit rumble strips on the highway, I hit the brakes and when the truck got down to about 10-15 MPH, it went away. It didn't feel like an out of balance tire or anything like that. It felt exactly like I hit rumble strips. It was a strong, high frequency vibration. I then continued on my way, and it was fine for a little while, still doing 40 mph, then suddenly out of nowhere the same vibration came back. Once again, I slowed back down, it went away and stayed gone even when I sped back up.
Both front hub bearings are less than a year old, and a quick check of the driveshaft seemed to indicate the u-joints are still tight. Front diff/driveshaft turns freely and smoothly and the front hubs are not locked.
'm going to try and jack the truck up and check everything thoroughly, but I'm really at a loss here, as I've never experienced anything like this before in any vehicle. Some reading suggests that it might be transmission related to the 5R55, but I'm really unsure.
Any way to drive the car with only the DRL LED strips and fog lights on only? Kind of like BMW can run with the halo lights and fog lights. Is there any computer remapping I can do or any rewiring?
View 9 RepliesVery weird thing happened on the way home from work. When I left work (not to full temp) at about 1500 rpm and 30 mph (had to be at 30mph--seemed to be the key) the whole truck felt like it was rolling across rumple strips (the ones one the shoulder of the road) all vitals were normal and it was gone once on the interstate and up to temp (I did gon on it to blow out anything that may have needed to be) it felt more like drive line but honestly can't say. 2006 F350 4X4 ....
View 7 RepliesMy 2010 F-150 5.4 L has developed a misfire. I don't have the codes right now but can get them. Replaced all plugs and 3 of the 8 cops. Misfires right after startup but as it warms up tends to smooth out. When it is acting up it almost stalls out at stops. Where to next?
View 3 RepliesMy truck just recently started to vibrate like it is going over rumble strips. It only happens over 40MPH and sporadically. It seems to happen when I'm just giving enough gas to maintain speed. Once it starts if I let off the gas or give it more gas it goes away. It reoccurs anywhere from 20 seconds up to a few minutes. I'm afraid my tire is going to fly off or my drive shaft is going to drop. There is no unusual noises or thuds if I go on and off the gas and the universal joints seem tight, and there is no vibrations from on steering wheel.
View 10 RepliesI picked up a 2014 F150 with the EcoBoost engine a couple weeks back and while so far I love it, I can't get over how quiet it is. So, to my question, has anyone done anything with the exhaust to get some of that truck sound back. A slight rumble on acceleration would be nice to have and maybe get some gains out of it, but thats minimal.
View 7 RepliesWe were coming home today from a 300 mile trip and we were heading into a 40mph head wind. Anyway we start to here a clicking sound in the driver's door like something is blowing around in there. It sounds like a piece of metal hitting on metal or like a small rock blowing around in there. Tick, tick, tick, it about drives me crazy. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow and hope it continues for them. Ever have that happen when something is going on with your vehicle and take it to the dealer and it doesn't do it. 2010 Lariat....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
Today and yesterday day mark the first time since I have owned my truck, that I have really taxed it with a load or serious work.
I have 8126, miles to date, and hadn't felt this annoying and somewhat pronounced shudder at throttle- tip in. Only from a dead stop. I'm doing some work to my house, so as I type this I have about 700-800lbs in my box. I've never felt this shudder empty as I do with a load, and starting out on an incline.
It feels like the rear is rolling over a "rumble strip" for the first few feet of throttle input, between 5-10 mph and then smooth everywhere else.
Rob- if your reading this, I can't remember if your shudder was similar, or if yours did it empty or only when towing or hauling a load.
I have a problem with a 2009 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 V6 that no one can seem to figure out. It occasionally goes into fits & misfires on cylinder 2 at idle. This is a sporadic problem, it does not do it all the time. Code stored is always P0302 (misfire at cylinder 2). Occasionally it will also store a code P0000 (random misfire at startup) in addition to the P0302. The engine runs great at all throttle settings other than idle & even when this condition occurs it will run fine as soon as I step on the throttle pedal. The problem only occurs when the vehicle is partially warmed up. It is OK (but not perfect) when very cold & the problem goes away & the engine idles just fine after driving down the highway 10 or 20 miles & fully warming up. If I just putter around town it will sometimes do it all day, other times the misfire will go away completely after shutting the engine off for a few minutes & then restarting (this is after the engine is fully warmed up).
Strangely, running the air conditioner seems to reduce the roughness of the misfire or cause the problem to cease. The truck has 180,000 miles on it & was previously used by a friend of mine who was a rural mail carrier so the engine has a lot of hours idling in addition to the total miles. It does not use or leak any oil or smoke & runs great except for when it is misfiring on cylinder 2 at idle. It does not use any coolant so it cannot be leaking coolant into that cylinder under certain conditions. The truck was always serviced at a Ford dealership & received impeccable maintenance as this was used as a mail truck. After I clear the computer by disconnecting the battery & leaving it over night, the truck will run fine for a while but eventually the misfire at idle returns & always is on cylinder 2. Sometimes it takes a month for the problem to return, sometimes just a few days. Spark plugs & wires have been replaced. Using a spark tester I have verified that the coil is firing when the misfire condition occurs. I have not checked fuel pressure but did replace the fuel filter. I cannot find any vacuum leaks & the engine normally pulls 20 inches of vacuum at idle when it is idling correctly & around 17 when it is misfiring. I replaced the intake manifold O rings & fuel injector O rings just in case, as it was easy, & I wanted to move the number 2 fuel injector to another cylinder to see if the problem followed to that cylinder.
After switching the number 2 & number 6 injectors the fault code still identifies a cylinder number 2 misfire (P0302) which rules out a bad injector. I checked the IAC valve & it is clean & I do not think the misfiring cylinder would always be the same if the IAC valve was the problem. I have not replaced the coolant temperature sensor as I do not think it could cause the same cylinder to always be the culprit either. There are no leaks in the hose between the MAF sensor & the throttle body & the hose is clean. The throttle body is free of carbon. The compression in all cylinders is fine (& even). I do not want to pay a mechanic a ton of money to start throwing parts at this thing & maybe get lucky & fix it. I am thinking that the ECU could be the problem (especially because the problem goes away for a while after flashing the ECU) but do not want to spend the money on a new ECU & then find out the problem is still present. Other than the ECU, I have addressed all the systems & components that are specific to cylinder number 2 that I can think of, & most that are not specific to cylinder 2 but specific to idle quality. However, I have not been able to fix the problem.
My 2010 has 11,000 miles on it. Was driving 75 mph down the freeway when the engine stopped. I was headed to the gas station as my low fuel light had just come on (at the time it died, 37 miles to E).
This is not my first Ford. I understand you shouldn't allow your tank to get that low because it is bad on the fuel pump (or whatever). But, I drove my 09 many times well below 37 miles to E. I have driven this vehicle below 37 miles to E. So, I was startled when it died.
It was towed to the dealership and their diagnosis was that it was out of gas. This does not make me happy... as I am aware that it was "low" on gas. But if the gauge is telling me 37 miles to E, then why did it stop running?
What good is a gauge/warning on my new vehicle if it is inaccurate?