Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 Truck Flutters Like Not Getting Gas - CEL Comes On Then Will Go Off
Apr 21, 2013
I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
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My '10 f150 sometimes will not start. If I leave it overnight or just a couple of hours it starts just fine. The Starter engages, the battery tests fine. There is no audible hum of the fuel pump just before you try to start it. This happens about once a month. Once after a drive up the canyon, once after a 15 drive around town, and once on a 25 mile drive to my parents home.
I have heard that the type of fuel filler cap does not let the fuel tank vent as fuel is used and it creates a type of back pressure that causes the fuel pump to be overloaded and not operate. Also, there is zero drop in performance between these issues.
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I recently purchased a used 2006 Ford F-150 (5.4l RWD). I was fully aware of a problem with the brake rotors when I bought the truck from a dealership. They supposedly changed the rotors and the rotors appear to be new...But every time I brake the truck almost flutters in the front end. I haven't noticed vibration while on the highway, only when braking. I am worried because I can fix it I just cant seem to figure out what the problem is.
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I parked my 2010 F150 XLT at work and went inside, 10 minutes later it had rolled 25 feet and into a ditch.
My first thought was that I had somehow forgotten to put it in park but when I went over to the truck, I checked and it was still in park and the display "lit up" on the "P". Also, a buddy of mine pointed out that the key won't come out unless its in park.
And so my insurance is taking car of the damage but right now I'm driving around with my "parking rock" because my parking brake doesn't work and even if it did, I want to know the root cause of what happened for peace of mind that it won't happen again.
I never use the parking break and my truck was in 2WD at the time. Luckily it was a shallow ditch and so I threw it in 4WD and backed out.....
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I was reading some of the TSB and I think some of them apply to my 2010 STX 4x4 with a 4.6l 3v. I am not sure of the build date
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Yesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
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2010 F-150 with 5.4 has stalled shortly after filling gas tank last 3 times. Truck will restart after much cranking. No other stalls except after filling.
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So I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
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I have a 2010 F150 5.4 with 43k miles. When approaching traffic lights or making a turn and you are approaching idle speeds the truck will start to stall out then ultimately shut off, causing me to loose all functions. It has cause my wife to almost get into a couple of major crashes. Sometimes when trying to start it back up it acts like it is not getting any gas it just keeps turning over. I took it in and it could not be diagnosed because they could not duplicate the problem. This will happen for a couple of days and then be fine for a month or two then start right back at it.
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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I want to lower my 2014 FX2 supercrew 2/4. Can't seem to find any drop spindles for it. What are you using to drop your trucks. I don't want to change the driving or handling of the truck any more than necessary.
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My truck doesn't blow hot air no more, just ice cold, for sure no fun with -15 c the temp. gauge shows that the engine is warm, blower motor works, got coolant replaced last summer...
F150 2009 xlt 5.4L....
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So my truck hit 1,000 miles. I decided to change the oil to get the factory oil out and remove any material that may be in there from the break in. I know the motor hasn't fully broken in. My question is what is the purpose of that shroud under the front of the truck? It seems like it can almost get caught on parking bumpers. It also makes it very difficult to get under there and change the oil. I had to go from the side. Need to remove it? It seems to be held by 2 good size bolts by the frame.
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My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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I have pulled a pop up with my truck before with no problem. I bought a boat on Friday and pulled it too and from the lake ( 2.5 hours each way). The boat is 21 feet and weighs 3000 pounds empty, no gas. The trailer is a bumper pull. I was pulling no more then 4,000. Under 50 mph everything felt fine. At times when going over 50 the truck was shaking. It would happen and then stop. It does not seem to be coming from the engine.
It would happen up hill and down hill. I was thinking it was just the vibration from the boat, can a load that size make the whole truck shake?? Also the truck made a horrible clunk after backing the boat down the ramp and pulling it back up. It happened when I took the truck out of park into drive. This can be something other then the transmission???
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So today was the hottest day I've encountered, since purchasing my '13, FX4, EcoBoost. It was 91 degrees out, which I know isn't THAT hot for some parts of the country.
That said, it's the first time since I've owned my '13, EcoBoost that I needed to use A/C all day. One thing I noticed is that the A/C fans are EXTREMELY loud.
The noise outside seems louder than an early 6.0 Powerstroke idling, or say even the 7.3 PSD. Sounds like a 747 taking off.
Is this normal or is something wrong with my truck? If I turn the A/C off, the super loud fan turns off, and the low speed fan for what I assume is the radiator keeps on, but is barely heard.
I don't remember the A/C fan being that loud on my previous truck '11, 5.0, XLT, but it had more equipment, and the engine wasn't as quiet as my EcoBoost now, which is almost silent.
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We have a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 3V. Starts fine for several days then all of the sudden it won't crank. It turns over normally but will not start. Then after 10 - 15 minutes of trying it starts. Does fine for a day or two then it happens again. It is not throwing any codes. We have replaced the spark plugs, crank shaft sensor, and checked all the fuses.
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I have a '09 Ford F-150 Lariat, 5.4 with a lighting difficulty. Previous had it in for service for exterior lighting that was intermittent and uncontrolled. A door module was replaced and reprogramming performed by the dealer. Worked OK for awhile, but today I noticed that brake lights were on while the truck was parked.
Checked all that I could think of then pressed the caution light button, activating the front/rear caution lights. Turned the caution button off. Brake lights went off. About an hour later, noticed the brake lights were on again. Tried different things to deactivate the brake lights, but to no avail - brake lights stayed on. Have disconnected the battery - this is where it sits at the moment.
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2009 F-150 Lariat 4x4 with 5.4L.
My truck will rev no more than three times then idle for about 10 seconds. Then rev 3 times then idle for about 10 seconds. It keeps doing this. For weeks. Idles about 500, revs to 1500. The dealer had it in the shop for 3 days and found nothing wrong with it. I have a video but it won't let me upload it. I don't know what I can do since the DEALERSHIP doesn't even know what to do. Doesn't throw a code.
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Today while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
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I have a 2011 Ford F-150 XLT. I did take the fuses out of the glovebox and installed them. So trailer lights and blinkers work fine. I just purchased a small teardrop tailer. My problem is that the trailer lights are always on when plugged into the truck.They are on even when lights are off and key is out.
I am assuming that the problem is with the wiring of the trailer harness but I wanted to ask here first in case the problem might be with the truck. I have never had a trailer so I am unsure if the 7 prong plug is always hot. Obviously it is on my truck. Is this way it should be?
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