Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 XLT - Control Panel / Audio / Blower And Key Fob Failure
Nov 28, 2016
So I have a 2012 xlt 5.0l single cab. Standard heat/ac with the non-navigation sync system. The blower and heat dosent work. The radio doesn't work on fm or Bluetooth. For the most part the screek doesn't say anything but if I hit the power button on the stereo the time pops up for a second. The key fob also doesn't work. When I click on the font the center console will light up but nothing will happen. The key doesn't work in the door but I'm not sure if it ever did. Intermittently it all comes back on and works just fine but cuts out again. A few times hitting the dash has made it all come back on. When it all isn't working and I press the eject button on the stereo the deck tries to spit something out and it says eject on the screen so I know the screen and the cd part of the stereo are getting power all the time. The Bluetooth doesn't work and the USB port doesn't work or charge my phone. The lights on the center console are all working but it doesn't dim when I dim the dash. I am baffled on what it could be and the harness is impossible to follow.
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In the last few weeks I have noticed that when I have the control set to floor only (manual system, not dual) I still have more air going to windshield than the floor. I can switch to Windshield/Floor, Center Vent and all seems ok. Just when in floor only it seems to keep going to Windshield. Asked the service rep at last oil change and he said it's normal for some air to always go to the windshield/defrost. I'm going back to dealer and check a new F150 XLT to verify I have a problem.
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The owner's manual for my 2012 STX 4x4 is of no use. There is nothing in my truck that resembles the illustration.
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I did not want to high jack the threat about the blower motor stuck on high, but on rare occasions my blower will quit all together if it is turned up too quickly. I can still hear the compressor clicking on and off, but no air moving. after waiting a few minutes it will work fine if you adjust the blower control slowly.
My truck is a 2012 lariat supercrew with navi and dual climate controls. oh and i believe i have about 300 miles left on warranty, but it is not doing it on a regular basis, i doubt the local ford dealership will repair it.
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I never noticed since I purchased my new truck about a month ago that my traction control has been on since I bought it in just curious if it suppose to be turned of or can I leave it like this I don't want to hurt anything mechanically by leaving it on I never new with the light being on means it's off one day on accident I hit it by mistake and it said off but in all honestly have I did any damage with it being on and fringing it all the time keeping it on hurt the engine rear end or tranny at all.....
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Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action.
Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action. Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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My blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
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My fan is NOISY!!! Its noisy in AC mode, defrost mode, heat mode, vent mode.... It really sounds like a leaf got sucked in. I don't wanna mess with the dealer since I don't think its a warranty thing. So, is it as simple as dropping the glove box and three screws for the blower as I have read?
2012 Eco.....
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I noticed an Oil leak of sorts on my truck( 2011 quad 4x4 f150 with ECO) when i did an oil change. Took it in and basically this is what i was told. Tranny was leaking from front seal and to to be removed for repair, upon further inspection the tech noticed the trans fluid appeared to be darker than normal. He tore it down and seen that the clutch plates and other components were excessively worn for a truck with only 15,000 miles. So any way the trans was about to have a catostrophic failure. Its getting replaced.
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I just get my new accent hb 2013 on february, and today while driving to my office the whole control panel starts blinking and fading, as well the front lights icon... for almost 10 secs, but then it suddenly disappears. Its less than 2200 km!
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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2011 FX2, 81,000 miles, with dual control A/C. The blower motor works fine on speeds 1-5. Put it on speed 6 or 7 and the motor trips after about 5 seconds. Turn it back below 6 or 7 and it starts working fine. I have replaced the resistor and the blower with the same results.
I have read through a good deal of the posts and most seem to deal with the resistor and the lower speeds not working. It's like its tripping a breaker or overload.
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What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
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My blower fan will not run on setting 1. on 2 3 and 4 it will work but not on the lowest setting. I replaced the relay and it still doesn't work. I have a 2010 f150 with the 2v 4.6 .....
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For about 6 months the cruise control on our '09 F-250 has been intermittently failing. One time I'll set it and it will work fine, the next time I try to set it and it fails. No particular rhyme or reason to when it fails to set.
Some of the tests that I did indicated it was the brake light switch on the brake pedal arm. It seemed to work perfectly a few times that I drove it after the installation but now it's back to working when it wants to.
I had a problem with the cruise on our '06 Ranger and it turned out to be the module. It acted a bit the same way in that it would set sometimes, other time not. I don't know if the two systems are similar or not.
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I just bought a 2014.5 Camry SE. I am really loving this car but I have a question. The black shiny climate control panel (manual climate control) seems a little cloudy. I was wondering if this has a protective film from the factory that needs to be peeled off. I cannot tell by looking at it, and don't want to mess with it until I know.
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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I've amassed almost 3700miles in my 14 gs350f thus far and really enjoy the car. One problem I've had for the past 1000miles or so is the drivers door control cluster for the window switches etc., not the black part but the actual panel the buttons are hooked into buzzes and wiggles and up down maby 2mm. I swear, it buzzes like a beehive that's on FIRE when the radio is on. I've been resting my hand on it for a while but enough is enough, how do I get that panel out so I can stick some really thin foam in there to stop it?
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2014 4x4 5.0 ... Drove my new truck (less than 1900 miles) to work in the rain. Alternator failed and battery warning on dash. Took truck to dealer, they confirmed and said not covered by warranty. Talked to ford, they back up dealers decision. They want a whole bunch of money to replace alternator and clean under the hood. What good is a 4x4 if it fails driving to work on an open highway?
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Failed to start or do anything with 22K miles. Week previous failure to move at stop sign. Stepped on again OK. WEnt on the hook to servicing/purchasing dealer. PCM? Replaced and so far all is good. Now the trans shifts earlier and will go into 6th at 40 in town driving; never went in until 65 on freeway before. Could the replacement part before newer model 14/15? Or maybe not for a MaxTow with 3.73 gears I have? Is it thinking and finding my driving style.
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