2014 4x4 5.0 ... Drove my new truck (less than 1900 miles) to work in the rain. Alternator failed and battery warning on dash. Took truck to dealer, they confirmed and said not covered by warranty. Talked to ford, they back up dealers decision. They want a whole bunch of money to replace alternator and clean under the hood. What good is a 4x4 if it fails driving to work on an open highway?
View 14 Replies2010 F150 XLT 4.6 3 V
No leaks
New pads and rotors
Intermittent BRAKE (red) light in dash , no other symptoms
Brakes work fine, mechanic is baffled
My van with the digital dash just started to flash the battery voltage display, with the blinking battery symbol, periodic beep, and showing a message that the battery voltage is low. I took it home immediately, and measured the battery voltage at about 12.5V, compared to almost 14V on my other cars, so it does seem lower. As a quick test, I pulled the connector from the alternator, and the alarm stopped. Of course, this meant it was not charging, but odd that that little change would silence the alarm.So I suspect my alternator has failed...
View 8 RepliesSo I am receiving this notification when I turn my switch on to just have my radio on. I don't have a reason to believe that the battery is bad as I just bought the truck from a dealer last Thursday. Searches come up it is a known glitch in the safety feature that cannot be disabled and is happening with good batteries.
View 14 RepliesWell when it rains it pours. As I was picking up my truck from the dealer for the brake master cylinder issue I noticed some faults come up on the display as I got into my truck. It was a Hill Descent Control Fault and a Service AdvanceTrac warnings on the dash. I told the service write about them and had already cleared them thinking it was a fluke alert from the servicing they did. Well they have come back in and after some searching I hear that when we get these alerts the solution was Ford having to replace the entire steering rack??!!
View 5 RepliesThe Issue: Dash display reads "Passenger Door Ajar", interior lights stay on, drains battery
Current Fixes I've completed
Sprayed electrical cleaner in all 4 door latch assemblies (didn't work)
Relubricated all 4 door latch assemblies with food grade lithium grease (didn't work)
Replaced passenger door full latch assembly (didn't work)
What is my next step? I have noticed that if I wedge the door lock button on the driver's side door into the lock position, the door ajar message turns off and stays off? I was thinking wiring or relay issues?
Last night battery light came on. Drove 40 miles home with lights on. Today, it started so I headed out. About 10 miles of battery light on, gauge fluctuating mildly either side of middle, gauge suddenly drops dramatically. I turn around and head back. After a mile or so there's a terrible growling under the hood, sounded like it could be an alternator bearing. Just as I pull over, the noise stops but entire dash goes black. Popped hood, alternator spinning quietly and not hot. I drove back and it started stumbling and surging as the battery died and it finally quit almost all the way back.
I have battery on charger now. I assume the BCM is the regulator by feeding current back to the field? If so could the growling be the BCM feeding back a huge field and the rectifier bridge growing? And the BCM fuse blew because too much current to alternator field coils? Will it start with a charged battery with the BCM dead? I need it to run to get to the parts place. Which fuses do I need to check? Then, how do I check the alternator, wiring, BCM regulator to find original problem?
The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
I just started getting this weird warning message on my dash console that says "STOP, STOP, Brake Failure, Service Manual" and the Brake and ABS lights turn on and then after a couple minutes it that all goes away.
I have checked the brake fluid and the fluid sensor and those are fine and i unhooked my battery and had it restart, but it still is giving me this message intermittently. My brakes work fine and i just had my brake pads done recently, so i know that isnt the problem.
I have a 2007 Prius with 92000 miles. All dashboard warning lights lit up the other day. Had it towed to the Toyota dealer and they first replaced the HV ECU. Now they are saying the traction battery needs to be replaced. They have had the car several days but they put me in a free rental.
View 3 RepliesMy girlfriends has GX460 . It keep showing a complete failure of the system and gives warning in the center dash and on the dash.
Is there a way to just shut the system down until after the weather clears up or forever, since its failed twice before?
So the other day, jump in the car to head home from my exercise class and the dash is all lit up with warning lights including the exclamation point, but other than that, the car seems fine. Decided to drive the 2 miles home regardless and then drive carefully to the dealer another 3 miles away. They tell me the HV battery failed and they won't be able to get a replacement until early April. So I'm driving a free rental car which is fine. New battery is covered under the warranty. Car has less than 60K miles on it.
View 11 RepliesI noticed an Oil leak of sorts on my truck( 2011 quad 4x4 f150 with ECO) when i did an oil change. Took it in and basically this is what i was told. Tranny was leaking from front seal and to to be removed for repair, upon further inspection the tech noticed the trans fluid appeared to be darker than normal. He tore it down and seen that the clutch plates and other components were excessively worn for a truck with only 15,000 miles. So any way the trans was about to have a catostrophic failure. Its getting replaced.
View 14 RepliesThe past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
View 14 RepliesSo I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
View 1 RepliesUnhooked battery on 2011 truck. I unhooked mine today then installed my magnaflow exhaust. then i hooked the battery back up. And now my battery light comes on when i turn the key ahead. my sync doesn't work, i push the button and it won't say listening. and when i turn the key off the stereo won't stay on, it says it's shutting the system down to save the battery. i am going to take it in on monday to see if they can fix it. i just hope it isn't my fault. Any certain way of disconnecting it.
View 14 RepliesI am pretty sure that my Denso alternator is shot. My 2010 Corolla S will not start, battery won't hold a charge either. I pop started my vehicle around 10:30am today and drove 30 minute north on the 101. My car appeared to have no issue maintaining power. I rode my bicycle around for about an hour and then tried to start my car. Nothing. Tried to pop start the vehicle twice...still nothing.
The battery has about 40k on it. Car has 121k. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Like I said the current alternator is made by Denso. I would like to buy a higher quality alternator with maybe a little more cranking amps.
I also am planning on purchasing a Optima battery, should I stick with a yellow top or a redtop. I have some aftermarket audio, only amp is in the Pioneer head-unit (avh p440bt), which is connected to aftermarket 6x9s and components (JL Audio c2-690tx and JL Audio C5-650).
So I have a 2012 xlt 5.0l single cab. Standard heat/ac with the non-navigation sync system. The blower and heat dosent work. The radio doesn't work on fm or Bluetooth. For the most part the screek doesn't say anything but if I hit the power button on the stereo the time pops up for a second. The key fob also doesn't work. When I click on the font the center console will light up but nothing will happen. The key doesn't work in the door but I'm not sure if it ever did. Intermittently it all comes back on and works just fine but cuts out again. A few times hitting the dash has made it all come back on. When it all isn't working and I press the eject button on the stereo the deck tries to spit something out and it says eject on the screen so I know the screen and the cd part of the stereo are getting power all the time. The Bluetooth doesn't work and the USB port doesn't work or charge my phone. The lights on the center console are all working but it doesn't dim when I dim the dash. I am baffled on what it could be and the harness is impossible to follow.
View 2 RepliesFailed to start or do anything with 22K miles. Week previous failure to move at stop sign. Stepped on again OK. WEnt on the hook to servicing/purchasing dealer. PCM? Replaced and so far all is good. Now the trans shifts earlier and will go into 6th at 40 in town driving; never went in until 65 on freeway before. Could the replacement part before newer model 14/15? Or maybe not for a MaxTow with 3.73 gears I have? Is it thinking and finding my driving style.
View 5 RepliesI just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
I purchased a new '09 f150 in '09. the truck has been fine except the dash light problem which ford has declined to correct. In low light i have no dash lights. it must be completely dark for the lights to work.
Last fall I drove a windy 2 lane secondary road at dusk without dash lights. I could not read the gauges. I did not know how fast i was traveling. This road has several tight corners.
The truck is powerful, accelerates quickly and weighs about 6,000 lbs. this is a very dangerous situation!! I have been to the dealership several times and phoned the ford customer service but to no avail!! Fords response is 'they're all like this'!!!!!!!!!!!??