Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 - Brakes Are Grinding And Squealing Bad / Dragging?
Dec 23, 2015
2013 Platinum. See sig for details. 37,000 miles. 1 owner. Truck has been basically parked since June. However I take it out for a quick spin every 3 week for 10 miles or so. Currently has storage insurance on it.
When backing out of the garage the brakes are grinding and squealing bad. Also getting feedback through the steering wheel for the first couple miles which leads me to believe it's one or both the front brakes.
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I have a 2012 F-150 4x4 super crew all factory with 54,000 mi. I've noticed a new noise/hum at slower speeds, more frequent now. The noise doesn't sound like its from the front or back specifically. I pulled the front wheels this evening and the front rotors seem pretty tight, how easily should they turn with vehicle off for about 30 min? I started it and pushed and released the brake and quickly tried to turn them, very tight, after a minute or two they relaxed a little, another 5 min they seemed tighter? I sharpie mark on both inside and outside of the rotor and turned it past the pads and they are both squeezing equally ruling out binding of the slider bolts.
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I have a 2011 CC 4x4 ECOBOOST F150. I have 45,000 miles on it and the front brakes started squealing.
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I have a 2013 XLT Scab that has been in twice now for a low speed to stop brake rubbing or grinding noise. The first visit they turned the front rotors and scuffed the pads, which seemed t fix the problem for about a month. The second visit they repeated the same process on the rear and the problem was good for about two months. Today while driving I noticed the noise, probably worse than I have ever heard. It seems like after about 20 stops the noise gets quieter. I am taking it back for the third time and I am hoping they will fix the problem for real this time. I am tired of burning my gas to get to the dealer and then having to ask my salesman for a loaner car. Other than this issue I love the truck.
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I have a 2013 F150 with 80,000km+ Original front brakes. When I am driving around and hit any bumps, I can hear a rattle. A slight pedal will make the noise go away.
The pads still have lots of life in them, so besides replacing them, what can I do? Or, is it actually something else? I have a 100,000km warrentee.
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My 2013 Lariat has just over 7,000 miles on it now. If you brake lightly at 55-60 you get a brake shutter, enough to feel it in the seat but also can see the steering wheel shake too. if you brake a little harder you don't feel the shudder much. is it possible to warp rotors in 7000 miles? 3500 of that 7000 was put on driving to Texas and back.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
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2012 F150, 5.0
Quiet at idle, makes a crinkly, scratching noise under load, becomes almost a rattle or sounds like something is dragging (there isn't anything dragging). I can rev the engine in P and do not get the noise, only when in gear and moving. Quiet when cruising, noise comes on when accelerating. Did not notice the last time I drove it, it sat for a couple of days, then noticed it the next time I drove (yesterday). Took it around the block this morning to see if it was still making the noise, it is.
Obviously, it needs to go to the dealer, but want some info if it's harmful to drive it there, or if I should have it towed.
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I replaced my front axle pads but the driver's side brakes seem to be dragging on the rotor making a very loud squealing noise when im driving. When I parked it in my driveway it was really hot and smoking. It doesn't happen to the passenger side. I pushed back the Pistons easily to get the brake pads in there so that wasn't a problem. But I must admit I changed them when my brakes were grinding.
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I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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There is this incessant squealing and grinding coming from my brakes. I have taken my 2010 Hyundai Accent to FOUR different mechanics and none of them have been able to figure out what is wrong with my brakes. I have replaced all of them and each mechanic has cleaned and adjusted them. But THREE days after, every time without fail, it is back as bad as it was before. It is only the rear right brake drum that is doing it still and I have no clue what to do. Something is definitely wrong with this car.
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Here's my issue, after a full break job my right front brake began to grind. Curiously it wouldn't grind initially after breaking soon after start up. I could go on and slow break for quite a distance, but soon after a hard brake or just slow breaking long enough the grinding begins. I've taken the car back to Firestone three times and even after a few adjustments or cleaning the problem persist... I've starting to feel bad for Firestone and embarrassed to be holding on to this 99 Chevy. I can't continue to drive this small car that sounds like a MTA bus while braking.
But I digress... I did notice, purely by accident (or it may be a mere coincidence), a few times the ABS light came on and during those periods the grinding was less abrasive. This leads me closer to believing the issue is with the caliper.
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I took my 2010 Sonata GLS (86K miles) into the shop last Thursday for an alignment and new front brakes since the old ones were on the wear indicators and doing some squealing/squeaking on soft left turns. Got a call from the mechanic who said the rotors were also shot, so I had them replaced as well.
On my normal commute on Monday and Tuesday this week (approx 10 miles, 95% highway), I noticed that when the car was moving at 15mph or less in a straight line both front wheels were making a noticeable high-pitched squeal/squeak, which went away with increased speed and when braking. I figured it might be a break-in issue but when it hadn't improved by yesterday I made an appointment to have the car checked out by the mechanic again today.
Got the car back today and the same sound is still happening, though now it's in the 60mph range and seems to come and go regardless of wheel direction. The mechanic said he took the brakes apart, found no issues but cleaned and lubed everything as a precaution.
I'm starting to wonder if its the bearings that are shot, but the sound hasn't remained constant as I would expect with a bearing issue. All the parts used are under warranty, so the next step I have available here is to have the brakes and rotors replaced.
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I have 2013 GS350 I bought in October with 5k miles. Currently I have 14,500 miles on it today.
Every time I have a cold start on the car, When driving at low speeds and braking, it has a loud squealing noise. Once the car has been running and driving, it goes away and doesn't came back unless I park the car and get back in an hour or so later. I went to the dealer and the guy said it's "normal", said moisture gets in and needs a few minutes break apart and that's how Lexus designs their cars. Which is believe is BS.
Here is a video of the noise. This isn't as loud as I've heard it before. [URL] ....
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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I have a 2014 IS350 F Sport, I'm at 26k miles. My brakes are squealing and scrapping. Is it time to get new brakes already? How hard is it to do on this car? I've changed brakes on other cars!
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Here's the deal:
* Drive the truck after it's been sitting a while (overnight, or at least a couple of hours), everything's fine. Good brake pedal feel.
* Drive 10-15 miles, stop-and-go at lights and stop signs, the brake pedal slowly goes from normal to firm, to very firm. Then, no play whatsoever and brakes are dragging bad. Yesterday, they were dragging so bad that I had it pulled into 1st gear with pedal on the floor just to get thru an intersection.
* Get out and check each wheel, all 4 brakes are dragging. I can tell from the heat pouring out of each wheel. And I've verified with infrared thermometer. Also, I've raised the vehicle when this is happening, and all 4 wheels will not turn. So it's definitely all 4 brakes.
At first, I assumed it was seized slide pins. But I've THOROUGHLY cleaned each and every one, and lubed with synthetic caliper grease. When the brakes are feeling normal, I've had my wife pump the brakes while I watched the calipers. Near as I can tell, they slide easily. Again, when my problem happens, it's all 4 wheels SIMULTANEOUSLY. So I've pretty much ruled out slide pins.
The brake pedal itself isn't getting bound by anything. It moves freely and I've lubed each of the pivot points. No problems there.
* When the brakes are dragging, I can crack the bleed screws and some fluid will come out at each wheel, which releases the brake at that wheel and I can then turn each wheel freely. So, there's residual pressure in the lines. I replaced the master cylinder (twice actually). No change in behavior.
BTW: I thoroughly bled the lines after each of the two master cylinder changes. I must've put 60+ ounces of fresh/clean/new fluid into the system so this isn't related to old fluid.
* Next, when the brakes are dragging, I can unscrew the master cylinder about 1/8-inch or so from the booster, and the brakes immediately release. Again, indicating residual pressure in the lines. So, I assume that something funky is going on with the brake booster. Also, when the brakes are dragging, I can pull the vacuum hose from the brake booster. And after a few seconds the brakes release. So I installed a new brake booster (re-manufactured one from NAPA -- they didn't offer a brand new one). No change in behavior.
After swapping the brake booster, I can still pull the vacuum tube when the brakes are dragging and it'll release in just a few seconds. So, it really seems like something is going on with the booster, but I can't figure out what it might be.
It is possible for the brake booster vacuum tube to have TOO MUCH vacuum, thereby causing the brakes to be unknowingly applied? Is there maybe a regulating valve of some kind in the line?
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I commute 35mi everyday. It's some stop and go, but at times it's a winding raceway up the valley. Yesterday about 45mins/25 miles into the drive I notice a squeak that's in rhythm with the speed of my car. Braking would dampen the noise, but it would return. I drove it over to the dealership where I work. They say they're booked, but they might have time to look at it in the afternoon between some other appointments. They call me about 2:30pm and say they drove the car around at 30mph, 40mph, and 50mph. No squeak. They say they'll take off the tires to look around. They call me again in 30minutes to say the car is ready, they didn't find anything. My drive home was quiet. Btw it was damp, but not raining yesterday morning. The afternoon was in the 80s and sunny.
This morning it was very damp and misting on the way to work. As I slowed for a toll booth the squeal reappeared and lasted for a few minutes as I got back up to speed. Then it disappeared. I had an idea it was a bad wheel bearing. I remembered reading that driving the car in circles clockwise and counter clockwise could identify a bad wheel bearing. I found an empty lot near the dealership and proceeded to drive in circles 25mph, but fairly tight. Not a peep out of the wheels except for the occasional squeal of the tires. Disappointed with my test, I drove right past the dealer quiet as a mouse.
Finally as I pulled into my work parking lot the squeal reappeared. I found an empty section of the lot and retested my circle hypothesis. Going in circles actually quieted the squeal in both directions. As the car returned to a straight course the squeal reappeared.
2009 Hyundai Santa Fe AWD....
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I bought my 06 Corolla LE last week and just started hearing a nasty squeaking sound whenever I applied the brakes. I took it to the dealer today and 4 hours later he calls me and tells me that he had to readjust my back brakes and lube them up and it should be fine..About a half hour into driving the car around town I start hearing this noise again. Now he's telling me to bring back in the morning to see what the issue is.
My question is besides the brake pads and rotors which were checked by another mechanic that said they were good what the hell could be the issue?
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I have a 2010 XLT, 85K, just started having a horrible grinding noise at start up for about 2-3 seconds, then gone. Going to dealer tmrrw. Multiple people said, possible oil pump hydraulics, ??????. Whatever it is, they say its expensive!!!!!
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I have a 09 f150 with 160,000 on it. For the last couple months I was hearing an occasional buzzing sound from the engine compartment. Couldn't duplicate it while not driving. The buzzing sound has changed somewhat but it's follow by a grinding sound that seems like the hubs are trying to lock while in 2 wheel drive. I think the buzzing is coming from either the IWE solenoid or the vacuum check valve. My question is this. If I pull the vacuum line off the the solenoid and plug the line will the hubs remain locked till I can dig into this a little deeper. I was thinking that they would stay locked. I should still be able to shift in and out of 4 wheel drive correct?
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