I have a 2011 Super Crew, 5.0, 4x2. I've been told this hard shift at low RPM and speed like idling through a parking lot is normal? We bought the truck used a few months ago and I've been told this is normal.
View 4 Replies2011 F-150 Scab 5.0L 25k miles. Why my transmission is waiting several seconds after being placed into drive or reverse before it actually slips into gear when first started in the morning and why it has a hard shift between 1st and 2nd than again between 2nd and 3rd and maybe why when it shifts into 2nd and 3rd gear it slips back out than back in?
View 7 RepliesI recently bought a 2010 f150 5.4 extended cab 4x4, i noticed when in traffic and the truck goes into 2nd gear just rolling slow when i come back to a stop it bangs going back into 1st?
View 6 RepliesAny solutions for the tranny/rear end hard shift from 1st to 2nd at low speeds on a 2011 f150xlt / off RD package with the 3.73 rear end/ elec lock. Had FORD do an update earlier and seems to be worse !!!!!. I will get a bang out of rear end when going over a speed bump and tranny shifts to 2nd. I am bringing back for warranty service and would like a some information to be educated before going.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
Starting to develop an issue where the trans will exhibit an extremely hard and abrupt shift every now and then - most only during the first couple hundred yards of driving and I think its the 1-2 shift. Only will happen once and only rarely but its becoming more frequent. I have an '11 5.0L supercab auto 4x4, but my father has a similar truck but with the ecoboost which does the same thing on a MUCH more frequent basis. He has been in numerous times with no resolution so I am loathe to expend the energy on "dealing" with them.
View 12 RepliesI Have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2002 4X4 automatic for a long Time. Recently, I've had a serious problem, just before couple of month's ago, when I start the car ,and I want to switch from parking to D. The D is Not working at all. Just like if I am on Neutral. The Reverse is Fine though, I stay on the D For a while and step on the throttle pedal and keep trying, suddenly i hear a clicking sound and the car shake a bit and the gear works! I had this every morning, so I got it checked and I've changed the whole gear. The car worked Fine. About a week ago, I've had the same whole problem again! But, in addition, when The gear Works,it jumps to 3rd, I try to Downshift to 2nd or upshift to 4th, it just stay on the 2nd and stay there for a while, then I hear the same old clicking sound with the shake, and its back on 1st. I've Changed the gear Before, will not do again, what else?!
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 FX4 F-150. My truck is parked in a garage at night, but obviously sits outside during the day while I'm at work. Almost every single day when it gets cold outside (probably 30 degrees or less), I climb into my truck late in the afternoon and the front brakes shutter like there's ice formation on the rotors. You can actually feel (in the pedal) and hear the rotation of that presumptive "ice" turn on the rotor and touch the pads. It usually "burns" off in just a few hundred feet, and the rest of the drive home is perfect.
BUT, sometimes that shutter is so bad that it sets off all the "check brakes", etc. type warnings on the dash. And I usually have to shut the truck off and back on to get those warnings to stop. Again, it's definitely related to the cold and there's something on the rotors or pads up front causing it. It apparently melts off almost immediately, but not before I have to use the brakes a couple of times just to get out of the parking lot, and it NEVER happens in warmer weather. The pads and rotors up front are new with lots of wear life left on them, and they are OEM Motorcraft pads.
I've only had my '13 STX with the 5.0 for a little over a month now, but it seems like the past few days, something's caught my attention. As soon as I start my truck when cold, the idling engine seems to have more vibration than normal, which is to say I can notice a distinct vibration in the cab. It only does this for about 10-15 seconds, and then the vibration goes away when it idles down. The truck still runs and drives fine, and I only notice this when I start the truck without it already being warmed up. I don't recall noticing this the first few weeks I owned the truck, but I also wonder if I'm over-analyzing matters as well.
View 5 RepliesMy truck is a 2012 145'' scab Ecoboost. It doesn't have a level or any other suspension mods. I noticed a knocking sound while parallel parking this morning. It occurs while steering quickly turning the wheel 1/4-1/2 a rotation in forward and reverse . It is easily felt through the wheel and it makes a quiet sound. I have a crummy video I will attach below. You can hear the sound when the camera is in the cab. It seems like either balljoints or tie rod ends maybe?. I have an oil change in 1000 miles at my dealer so the timing is pretty good to bring it in.
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2011 F-150, 5.0L, SuperCab. I usually only report odd things about my vehicles only after my wife says something. Didn't think about it really until she complained, keep in mind she drives a Subaru with a "CVT" transmission that doesn't shift.
What I noticed is that when driving at low speeds, say parking lot speeds my F-150 seems to slams into 2nd gear. when it does this it feels like you slightly got shoved in the back. Is this normal, I know it's a truck and there is a lot of rotating mass and torque going on here. My previous truck a 2008 Chevrolet 2500 HD, 6.0L felt similar at low, parking lot speeds, it also had a 6-speed trans like this Ford. Just wondering if this is normal for this beast.
It's like a tire grinding or shuffling at low parking lot speed, hard right or left turn, more evident when slowly braking during the turn. Dealership claims the negative camber contributes to this phenomenon and that nothing can be done about it.
I realize we have about a 1.5-degree negative camber in 2011-and on IS-F (I have no mods and still running with stock Potenza RE-050s), perhaps this contributes to the feel of the tires at parking speeds.
So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
View 1 RepliesMy gpa just got a 2010 f150 and when is idling the whole front passenger side seat shakes. ik that is not suppose to happen and I am wondering what is the cause of that?
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 CTS Caddy with a 3.6L, 156,612K miles, AWD has been steering hard for a few weeks. Its very difficult to to steer at low speeds, like parking. At highway speeds its ok. Its not making any noise and the fluid level is where it should be. It is hard to steer at low speeds if the cars is hot and when its cold after just starting car. My question is, how to I determine if its the pump or rack or something connected with the speed sensative steering without going to the dealer.
I was at the dealer for routine maintenance Friday and he didn't have time to look at it but said a rack and a pump, he didn't even mention if there could be something wrong with the speed sensitive doohickey. Which leads to my second question, can my normal mechanic, who I believe to be quite capable, be trusted to replace the pump or rack or is this a job that the dealer would be more suited doing. If can bring it to my mechanic I can always buy the parts myself and he can install it. Thats why I would like to figure out exactly which part is bad before I go to him.
My wife's 2009 Tiguan SEL has quit on her several times over the last several weeks. Each time it has happened as she was leaving a store parking lot--moderately warm, no hard acceleration. She says battery light is lit on the instrument panel when this happens. Nothing else. She says it will not turn over, but that might be because she doesn't put it back in park before trying to restart. She waits a few minutes and it starts with no problem.
I've had into the dealer and another shop I use periodically. Computer had codes for misfire, faulty ignition switch, flap stuck open in intake, and fuel pressure. Ignition switch, intake, plugs, and air filter were replaced. Cleaned carbon from the valves. Have run one tank of fuel system cleaner through.
I see a few other posts on fuel pressure or pump issues. Has this resolved with a new fuel pump? From what I understand, it's a pretty expensive repair since there are two and they sit in the tanks.
I have an 04' R32 with about 56k on it. Here's the problem; when I drive it hard and speed shift from 2nd to 3rd it grinds just a little. It doesn't do it when I'm just cruisen grany shifting. For awhile now I've been thinking that the synchronous from 2nd to 3rd gear was going bad, till I talked to a friend with a 20th GTI who said that the 6 speed trannies will start to do that, and there's really nothing you can do about it. Is this true that I just have to deal with it or can it be fixed?
View 12 Replies2009 F150 4wd.. I have no - power windows, door locks, radio, blinkers, will not shift out of park, no dome lights. all started last night after it was parked for about an hour the lights flashed on their own and when I went to leave this morning all of this is going on. I have :
- checked fuses - good
- checked for codes - none
Truck runs fine, you have to press the shift lock button to get it out of park,runs like normal.
My 2008 seems to be having some intermittent trouble shifting into the proper gear at a couple of speed ranges.
Occasionally I'll start it up and pull out of a parking space (or leave a stoplight) and it feels like it's stuck in 1st well after it should have switched to a higher gear (I sometimes feel the upshift at about 10* mph). If I continue accelerating and hit about 40-50 mph, once again it appears to stay in the current gear instead of shifting.
When this issue is happening, the car feels even more underpowered than usual and takes way more throttle than it should to accelerate. This results in a cruising RPM of 3.3-3.5k at 60 mph. At that speed the engine would normally be doing about 2.2k RPM. Similar power and RPM conditions exist in the lower-speed range, too.
This whole thing is usually preceded by a rough shift into gear (D or R) when I first start the car. It's always had a slight lurch in the appropriate direction as I take it out of park, but this is really noticeable.
If I stop the car and come back in an hour, it (usually) appears to have reset itself. I can drive around and the transmission control is as good as always.
This has been going on for about a month, with an episode maybe every week or two. I took it to a shop and they didn't find any problems (I told them about the weird shifting and lack of power).
Does it sound like this is what's happening (it's not getting into the right gear)? Thoughts on what I should do? I can't really remember the speeds.
Hate to make a question like this my first post here, but anyway. Just got an '11, 5L, Scab, only have 350 miles on it and absolutely love this thing. Since I've never driven any other '11 F-150 I'm not sure if what I am feeling is normal or not for these trucks. With a light foot, driving around town my truck feels like it has a very slight shutter just before the 2-3 up shift or between 20-25 mph.
I have felt it in the 1-2 up shift but it appears to be intermittent but almost 80% of the time. Had a cup with ice-water in the cup-holder and exactly between 20-25 mph on the 2-3 up shift the water in the glass slightly ripples and caused the ice to slightly chatter. Is this normal or should I take it back and have Ford look at it?
Oh forgot to mention if I give the truck more aggressive throttle pressure I can't feel it, only seems to be low speeds, such as driving through a neighborhood or parking lot. I hoping it just needs to be broken in yet.
I have a 2010 Lariat and it randomly gives me fits by not letting me shift out of park. This started yesterday and I want to know where to start looking so I don't get stranded in BFE! Its a center console shifter.
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