I have a 2010 Lariat and it randomly gives me fits by not letting me shift out of park. This started yesterday and I want to know where to start looking so I don't get stranded in BFE! Its a center console shifter.
View 2 RepliesSo I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
View 6 RepliesThere I was driving down the road, minding my own business. My phone was charged full so I reached to disconnect the car charger and the tip fell off the charger and shorted out my cigarette lighter socket. My owners manual does not show where the fuse is located in the fuse box? It does not mention the "lighter fuse" by name......
I called the Ford Dealership parts department where I purchased my Lariat and was told I he could not nor would not tell me which fuse is blown. Everything else seems to work. Haven't tried my sync lately, better do that. Where the fuse is? My fuse box is inside engine compartment by the radiator.
I have a 2010 F150 Supercrew 5.4 Lariat that just turned 100,000 miles that is losing fuel mileage all of a sudden... Over the years I'd get 16-17 mpg city and 18/19 highway(best I ever got was 20 mpg on a trip from New Orleans to Houston with cruise set on 65 all the way and no stops) always checked- tank vs miles, not on dash, and with every tank... I've changed all the plugs recently, did the BG Induction Service and BG Transmission service, K&N filter cleaned and recharged, about to do the MAP sensor cleaning also... I've dropped to 15-15.5 miles for the last two tanks...
Truck runs fine but maybe it's just me seems slightly sluggish when driving and accelerate to speed up quickly. Idles fine etc... I've just ordered a scanner for the computer, not that I have any codes YET...but I'm just trying to figure this out to get back to my normal mileage... Again no codes but what about the 02 sensors, they've never been changed... any other tweaks you knowledgeable folks can think of? Also ran Seafoam through the last two tanks... I pull a trailer from time to time... but not for a while... can the transmission get stuck in a lower setting since I'm told they "adjust" and need a few hundred miles to adjust back to non hauling?
My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
A week ago, I bought my wife a 2010 Platnium White Lariat. (I will post pics later, when it's clean). We noticed that the smell of fuel, was bad after driving it, and coming to a stop, say at a stop sign.
We returned it to our dealer, yesterday, and this what they found. Just though I'd pass it on to you, for problem shooting, and infor to ask a dealership.
This is the quote on the paper we have. "Customer states when filling up or at idle the can smell fuel in the passenger compartment. Smells like coming from the engine area. Leaking at fuel rail. Tightened valve and road test no leaks now".
We were told that it was a "schrader valve". There was NO CHARGE for this repair. So far it seems to be o.k.
The advise we were given was as follows:
1) NO HEET is needed in the fuel tank
2) No Sea Foam, or injector cleaner of any kind
REASON: Was told it would mess up gaskets, and seals etc. I'm not a mechanic, just passing the word that I was told.
2009 F150 4wd.. I have no - power windows, door locks, radio, blinkers, will not shift out of park, no dome lights. all started last night after it was parked for about an hour the lights flashed on their own and when I went to leave this morning all of this is going on. I have :
- checked fuses - good
- checked for codes - none
Truck runs fine, you have to press the shift lock button to get it out of park,runs like normal.
I have 2010 FX4 with 76,000 miles, 5.4L with automatic trans and the console shifter. Problem is, lately it doesn't always want to come out of Park when I try to go somewhere. I know that the brake pedal needs to be pushed in order to release the lock on the shifter. If I pump the pedal a couple of times it seems to release the lock eventually. Is there a brake pressure switch that actuates the lock or a switch on the pedal that needs to be made to release the lock? I have tried to search on here for a fix with no luck.
View 2 RepliesLast time this truck did this, I replaced the #27 fuse and it started right up. This time, no such luck. It is EXTREMELY frustrating to pay this much money for a truck that you cant start. Btw, it has 38 miles until its on empty.. Any way that could be the cause if i am parked in my drive way which has a slight incline?
View 3 RepliesI parked my 2010 F150 XLT at work and went inside, 10 minutes later it had rolled 25 feet and into a ditch.
My first thought was that I had somehow forgotten to put it in park but when I went over to the truck, I checked and it was still in park and the display "lit up" on the "P". Also, a buddy of mine pointed out that the key won't come out unless its in park.
And so my insurance is taking car of the damage but right now I'm driving around with my "parking rock" because my parking brake doesn't work and even if it did, I want to know the root cause of what happened for peace of mind that it won't happen again.
I never use the parking break and my truck was in 2WD at the time. Luckily it was a shallow ditch and so I threw it in 4WD and backed out.....
I recently bought a 2010 f150 5.4 extended cab 4x4, i noticed when in traffic and the truck goes into 2nd gear just rolling slow when i come back to a stop it bangs going back into 1st?
View 6 RepliesThe problem I am having is that there is a grinding noise when in park. If i shift into gear then it is fine but shifting back to park very big grinding noise. At the same time I have the Speedometer and fan for the heat not working as well as the heater for the seats.
This problem is so bad I am afraid to drive and get stuck somewhere. I have checked the starter and it is tight ad secure. all fluids are fine. Not sure what this would be? This is the single vehicle i have for work and family.
I have a 2014 Prius C and for the last month or so it's sometimes difficult to shift from P. I always park car with handbrake. It's specially difficult if I push down hand brake before stepping on the brakes and car shifts a little while on park. Car has 35,000km.
View 9 RepliesI bought a 2010 V8 Explorer on Monday and aside from the apparent "known issue" with the hard 2-1 shift (which I'm trying to get it to "unlearn" by driving differently), it's a really nice truck.
When I shift into reverse it says "Park Aid On/Off" in the display, and sure enough, it beeps when I get close to something. That said, there aren't the normal "dots" in the bumper that I normally associate with backup sensors.
Everything works just fine with it, I just am a guy who likes to know how things work and I don't see anything on the outside that would indicate it's a parking sensor.
My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
View 3 RepliesMy truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
Parked truck, went to leave and truck starts and runs fine, says brake problem on message, wont let me move gear selector out of park, is there a way to do this manually and get it to neutral so it can be towed??
View 2 RepliesI just purchased my brand new 2014 F150 4x4 STX 5.0L single cab short box about a month ago. I noticed when I drove it off the lot that it had a slight vibration at low RPMs. I boiled it down to brand new stuff working out all the kinks and running around for the first time, bought a brand new jeep in 2005 and it made interesting noises and had funny vibrations for a while, but this is starting to get annoying. I have a very noticeable vibration at low RPMs both in park and while driving, more noticeable at speeds between 35-45 with RPMs anywhere from idle to 1500 or so.
I have not had it at the dealer yet, I want to be armed with a little bit of knowledge when I go in an talk to them if possible. I know how stealerships work and since it seems similar problems are somewhat common in these newer F150s, I don't want to get the "oh it's common in these trucks and perfectly normal". In my opinion a brand new truck should run smoother than melted butter on hot flapjacks, especially one that only has 1400 miles on it.
Truck is stuck in Park, cant get it out. Tire Pressure Monitor Failure warning is blinkings as is the low tire pressure light. Emergency Brake light stays on, EM brake is not engaged. No Electrical working, lights, radio, AC.. I don't know what is going on with it...
View 2 RepliesI got a couple work trucks both 2010's with around 20k miles on them. Mine just cut off on me today while sitting at a traffic light. I wasn't even paying attention till the alarm started dinging at me. The other truck stalled on my employee while turning in to park. The weird thing is I have two truck doing the same thing what are the odds.
View 14 RepliesI've had an issue twice with the truck stuck in park. Both times I pulled battery cables and it reset itself. This time is different; the truck is stuck in park, the chime doesn't work when you open the door, the screen flashes tire pressure monitor fault and the traction control light blinks on and off. Not only that, the radio does not work, nor does the heat/air. I've got to believe with that many things its the body control module gone bad? Truck is a 2010 crew cab with the 5.4 btw...
View 14 Replies