Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Rear Defroster Not Working?
May 25, 2013
For the second time in the last 24 months, my rear defroster doesn't seem to be working. The first time I took it into the dealer and under warranty, they had to replace the entire rear window. The side view mirror defrosters still worked and they still work now. It just seems that the rear isn't working again and this time my warranty has run out.
Should I take it back to the dealer and hope they honor their work? My 3yr/36k expired 4 months ago. How could I even test that it is working? I've only had to use it 2 or 3x since last Feb. and that's when I noticed it doesn't seem to be working. I only had to use it for short trips so the main defroster in the cab eventually defrosted the rear window. The weather is warmer so now I won't have as many chances to have it fogged up.
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I'd like to disable my rear window defroster but keep my heated mirrors. Reason being I don't won't my rear window to explode when I turn it on. I have a 2011 bought a couple of months ago. Could I pull the fuse and still have the mirrors on? I rarely use the back window as I use to side mirrors. Drive a 18 wheeler for a living.
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I bought a used 2013 F150 Limited. The truck only had 24,000 miles on it and is still under the 36/36 warranty.
I tried to use the rear defroster and the button never stayed on. As I started to investigate the truck through the owners manual I realized that it was supposed to come with heated mirrors, standard equipment on the limited, and it shows them on the VIN build out. It does not have the heated mirrors installed.
I take it to my local dealer to get the rear defroster fixed and have the mirrors installed and the dealer won't do it. I have to call Ford and open a case. I do this and Ford rejects my claim since I bought it used.
To me this shows a very poor business ethic and is disrespectful to a long time loyal Ford customer. To be honest this has really ticked me off and completely turned me off towards Ford.
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My rear defroster on my sliding glass window doesn't work all the time. I make sure the window is completely closed. It sometimes comes on and other times it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on and immediately shuts off. The dealership says I will need a new window. The truck is 7 months out of warranty. I think a $52,000 truck should have a rear defroster that works a heck of a lot longer than 43 months, especially when it has only been used 3 times since I bought it. Is this a problem that any of you have experienced with you F-150's ? I love my truck and will live with the rear defroster not working before I replace it. I just feel that Ford should have better quality than that.
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2011 F350 with the rear window defroster not working on the slider window, just the glass that slides.
I had them look at when it was in for other warranty work and the dealership says it is not covered by the ESP. I looked up the ESP and it states that it covers heated back glass(electrical only). The dealership says it is considered glass and it isn't covered. If it was the outer sides of the back window it wouldn't bother me, but it is the center piece.
I had it looked at a while back when the truck was in for different warranty work and they supposedly fixed it, it was never fixed but I just thought I would get it fixed next time I was in there instead of just going in for that. Last time I was there I was under the 60K mile warranty and it is covered under that, but not the ESP supposedly. Bad dealership or just live with it?
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I have a 2013 KR F150 SC 4x4 and have owned it since new. This big snow/ice storm that just came thru NC is probably the first time I have tried to use the rear window and mirror defrost . It does not work nor will the light come on the sync display. i pressed the button on the hvac as well as on the sync. My son says there is a TSB on this. I have 40,000 miles and the warranty is out. Also, its too cold to check the fuse today.
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Just stopped working. The fans of course blow fine and the air vent changes from top to bottom and the like. I checked the fuses and looks OK. I measured the voltages on the pressure switch and they read +5.0VDC and +4.7VDC to ground. The pressure switch itself measures 10.9K Ohms and 6.2 KOhms to ground from the two left pins. Is that the Ohms for LOW R134 ? I will try measuring with a manifold later but thought this might ring a bell. Is this style switch able to be JUMPED ? To see if it is only low pressure ? The ones I am used to have only 2 pins and this has three. I read +2.6VDC on the compressor clutch.
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Now that the weather has gotten very cold, I used the rear windshield defroster a couple of times this week. The smell that it emits is absolutely disgusting, I had to turn it off. The front defroster isn't much better. What could be causing it? Also the rear defroster, when working, defrosts the window in a "V" shape, meaning the center is clear but the sides and top/bottom are still frosted. I have a 2014 GLS.
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so I have a 2010 Camry and I'm 99% certain the rear defroster doesn't work. I came from a 2000 Camry where, upon pressing the rear defrost button, the rear window would clear up within like 5 minutes (literally-- that thing was fast), but my 2010 Camry doesn't do that.
I drove for about 15 minutes last night and saw no change whatsoever. The orange LED lights up when I press the button (and stays lit) for the rear defroster, but I'm not seeing any results.
Is there a fuse I should check? the orange LED comes on and stays on when I press that button, but I'm pretty sure nothing's happening. This is the only problem thing I've ever noticed that's wrong with my car.
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Got our 2012 package 5 lesss than a month ago, so we haven't had much opportunity to use the rear defroster. The two times I have used it I noticed that it works well on the upper rear window, but the glass below the rear spoiler doesn't seem to be clearing. The red/orange "wires" are visible in the glass, but don't appear to do anything. Wasn't planning to head back to the dealer until first service since we haven't had any other problems, but this could be annoying with the winter weather.
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i have prius 2004 yesterday the rear defroster stopped and not working while the key on steering wheel and the yallow light indicator works very well and mirror defroster also working well, this case it become yesterday but before that it was working as usual.
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I am having problems with with the rear defroster and the a/c in my '98 Buick Lesabre, they went out at the same time, and I checked the fuses in the fuse box, and the meter says they are all good, the fan motor isn't running either, and I think that they are all tied together.
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A couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
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So I have the dreaded "rear defroster/radio static interference" issue on my 2011 Corolla LE. I turn on my radio and all is good. I turn on my rear window defroster and my FM reception goes away.I am pretty sure I did it to myself because it only started happening after I cleaned the rear window with some windshield washing fluid and a paper towel. I do have a knack for being a bit gruff on things and people unintentionally so I guess I am not surprised. I must have damaged the elements of the rear defroster in the process of cleaning the window. I should have left it dirty.
Anyway, I've read many posts detailing how breaks in the rear defroster grid can introduce EMI that effects the factory radio antennae in the rear window. Some of the answers I have seen suggested are:
1) replace the rear window (really?)
2) use a repair kit. URL...
3) completely replace the the rear defroster grid with an after market kit. URL...
4) replace the factory antennae with an after market unit that is not internally mounted
5) live with it
Are there any other options that I haven't found? If the root cause is the rear defroster, the repair kit seems like the way to go (even if it looks like an annoying task to perform upside down in such tight and cramped spaces). Might fix the defroster if its broken but will it resolve the EMI problem ...
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I have a couple of things going on with my 2014 Toyota Camry. My car was in a recent rear end collision and I noticed the other day that my rear window defroster is no longer working. I waited 15 to 20 minutes and still nothing. The side mirror defrosters work fine. One button turns on both my rear and side mirror defrosters. The extent of the rear damage did not go past the trunk lid. They did replace the lid, but I'm not sure why that would make a difference. The rear window was not replaced. There was also some quarter panel damage underneath that required welding. It was working fine before the body work and now it's not working. Would could be the likely cause? I'd rather fix it myself if it's quick, rather than spending time taking it back tot he body shop.
The other problem...I was on a road that had a drop off on my passenger side. The lane slightly narrowed for some odd reason for just for a few feet. The front right side tire went off road and the front of my car hit the pavement pretty hard. I couldn't see any damage underneath, but of course that doesn't mean there isn't any. When I was driving to work this morning I could hear a humming noise that only got louder as I drove faster. It wasn't a continuous hum. You could hear a break in between hums but the breaks were more frequent the faster I drove. I'm not too sure what that is either? A wheel bearing?
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First time I'm having an issue with my Toyota Camry 2009 model.
See video: [URL] .....
I'm wondering if this is a starter issue because the battery seems to be fine (can turn on radio, lights are working). The strange thing i noticed was that the light on the rear windshield defroster was blinking. I haven't turned that on in months.
Also, is this covered under warranty ? I bought the extended warranty when i purchased the vehicle in 2008. If i'm not mistaken I'm still covered under it. Is there a place (online) where i could check my extended warranty period ?
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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Ok so this morning it finally got cold here. Around 10F degrees outside. Had a light coat of frost on the truck'just enough to make it hard to see out the windshield. I had the defrost on, fan speed set to high, temp. control set to high. After 20 minutes of driving it still wasn't getting hot in the truck. I had made a clear spot on the windshield so I could see to drive but the rest of it never cleared. Took the cabin of the truck forever to warm up at all. The fan doesn't seem to blow very hard on the highest setting on this truck. Air doesn't get very hot either. What's the issue here? Is this normal for these trucks? You'd think that on a truck that's commonly used in fleets and for work crews that they'd have designed these things with awesome heaters. Dang it's gonna' freeze me to death this winter.
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I drove the truck yesterday and a few miles from the house i noticed the air conditioning wasn't working. After realizing it wasn't working i turned it off and continued on my 30 minute drive. When i arrived to my destination i opened the hood and watched the A/C compressor pulley as the wife turned the A/C on. The clutch was working as it should, and the engine rpm increased slightly with the load of the A/C as usual. The air coming from the vents was not cooled at all.
After talking with a few people at work they seem to think it's a mechanical issue, ie: the heater core isn't switching the louver from heat to A/C. I am going to do some investigating this weekend and will post my results.
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My blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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