My 2012 F150 has developed an odd issue.... It doesn't seem to want to always take off in first gear. I've had it happen several times where the truck would take off in a high gear but yesterday was the worst yet....I was towing my boat and the truck attempted to take off in 5th gear....I threw it in neutral and back in drive and it was fine, what's causing it.
View 7 RepliesSo on my way home from work, there is a dual lane, pretty long steady incline (fairly steep). The speed limit is 50, so I set my cruise to 50 going up. I noticed that the truck will not downshift but stay in 6th gear all the way up at around 1,200 rpm. It seemed a little low on the rpm's for how steep the hill is, so one day (about a week ago) I decided to use the "-" button of the select trans switch to make it go into 5th. RPM's go to ~ 2,000, and I immediately saw an increase in the green bar indicating the instant fuel mileage. I've repeated it every day since with the same result. So I get better mpg's manually shifting into 5th gear in that specific situation.
View 7 RepliesSo today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
Last night someone broke into my 2000 Ford Ranger (3.0L, automatic, 2wd, extended cab) and tried to steal it from my driveway. For some reason they didn't complete the theft. Looks like they forced open the rear sliding window to gain entry. The steering column is damaged where you insert the key. The rotating part where you insert the key that has a slit is laying on the floorboard, along with a plastic ring that has stranded wire around it. (I think this is part of the anti-theft system that senses the smart key).
Anyway, I can insert the key and turn the ignition but nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. The "theft" lite on the dash is flashing more quickly than normal. The thief didn't damage anything else but did take the owners manual from the glovebox. This is just an everyday truck that is over 10 years old, nothing special about it, so I guess it was an attempted joyriding incident. Police said they had another vehicle in the area stolen and later found abandoned. I need this truck to drive to work, what do I need to do to be able to start it? There's not a lot of money in our budget for bigtime repairs right now.
Been suffering some take off shudder as well as the 55mph shudder and finally took the truck into the dealer who informed me it is throwing a couple of misfire codes (no CEL). Quoted for spark plugs. Looking around the boards, seems a lot of people are seeing premature wear on the ecoboost plugs and have had success regapping or replacing. Any words from 5.0L owners? What are the odds they just need regapped? I'll probably just replace them anyway, but its a good discussion. Also are they are simple to replace as it looks- just pop the coil packs off and they are there in the valve covers?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as alot of guys here,come to a stop clunk,take off clunk. My question is my warranty ran out,I had a 30,000 or three year and now I have 31,000 plus it's like the truck new when the warranty ran out. There is a TSB on it,10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. Or Braking... Will they do any thing for me,and how much would it cost me to have the work done at a shop.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2009 f 150 two wheel drive and after reading and doing a little research I found my problem. Slip yoke same as a lot of guys here, come to a stop clunk, take off clunk. There is a TSB on it 10-22-6 NOV 10 Drivetrain - Driveshaft Slip/Bump On Accel. I am going to pull the rear driveshaft and put in new grease MERCURY MARINE GREASE with TEFLON (2-4-c ) part nbr 92-802863A . How much do I need, will 8 ounces be enough.
View 3 RepliesI have 163,000 + on my 2009 fx4. Recently I have lost my take off power and passing power. I have the manifold leak but the dealership says that's not the problem. Took it in twice to the dealership and once to an independent and nobody knows what's wrong. No codes are showing. Had a dealership tune-up at about 120,000 miles. Need some starting points cause it's very annoying and unsafe. I tow alot and the "get up and go" is gone.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2012 4x4 f150 163" wheelbase 8' bed that vibrates/shutter when you take off you fell it more when you are on an incline and a WHOLE lot more when you have a load on the truck (trailer/load of fire wood).
View 3 Replies2010 F150 XLT FX4 5.4L Crew Cab Medium box, nice blue truck, lacking on chrome though.
My friend has a clunk/lag on take off from a dead stop only. Drives fine down the road, but when taking off from a complete stop, you step on the gas, and nothing happens for a second, feels like it lags, then clunks, gives a jerk, and takes off.
From talking to other newer Ford owners, seems like a common problem.
I've been wondering why my 5.4L sounds so grumpy at take off and then so quiet at speed.
I'm assuming this ain't factory? Looks like a flowmaster but can't find any markings on it.
I want to get dual exhaust (yes I like the look) but can't figure if I want Magnaflow or Flowmaster.
What I'm looking for is performance (is there even such a thing--rhetorical) and pure-wood-developing raw rumbling noise! Not the kind of noise but the kind that if you want to pop the throttle a bit you let the awesome guy next to you know that this truck ain't no slum.
I'm trying to figure out tips and placement-- I'm thinking straight back is the best bet?
I am changing the front and rear axle fluids on my '10 f150.The rear was no problem,the front is my issue.I took all the bolts off and loosened the cover to drain the fluid but it is a tight space and cannot take it off completely to clean it up and put on the gasket sealer.
View 2 RepliesWell it's been 300 miles since Ford applied their "special grease" and put on clamps to eliminate the clunk when slowing and the slipping feeling at take off. Now the clunk is back. Every time at 25 it downshifts and clunks, then once again at 10. Drives me nuts. My service advisor wants me to "log" these visits so we can be more aggressive with Ford to get this resolved. I love the truck, but this is annoying driveline slop. Almost like the splines weren't cut right and Ford is using heavy grease to fill the gaps......developing...
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 F150 with a 5.4L. I recently replaced the PCM with a new unit from autocomputerexchange.net that was programed for my truck. I installed the PCM but the truck did not start. The theft light is also flashing rapidly during cranking. I ran a code scanner a recieved the code P1260 indicating an attempted theft which disabled the truck. I read that if you have two keys you can sync the keys with the new computer but unfortunately one of the keys stopped working a couple years ago (not sure why, stopped for gas and it never started back up). Since i do not have two working keys do i have to tow the truck to a dealer and let them reprogram the keys and reset the PATS or can i have a locksmith recode the keys and sync the keys myself.
View 2 RepliesStarted a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
I want to lower my 2014 FX2 supercrew 2/4. Can't seem to find any drop spindles for it. What are you using to drop your trucks. I don't want to change the driving or handling of the truck any more than necessary.
View 14 RepliesMy truck doesn't blow hot air no more, just ice cold, for sure no fun with -15 c the temp. gauge shows that the engine is warm, blower motor works, got coolant replaced last summer...
F150 2009 xlt 5.4L....
So my truck hit 1,000 miles. I decided to change the oil to get the factory oil out and remove any material that may be in there from the break in. I know the motor hasn't fully broken in. My question is what is the purpose of that shroud under the front of the truck? It seems like it can almost get caught on parking bumpers. It also makes it very difficult to get under there and change the oil. I had to go from the side. Need to remove it? It seems to be held by 2 good size bolts by the frame.
View 14 RepliesI'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
View 9 RepliesMy wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
I have pulled a pop up with my truck before with no problem. I bought a boat on Friday and pulled it too and from the lake ( 2.5 hours each way). The boat is 21 feet and weighs 3000 pounds empty, no gas. The trailer is a bumper pull. I was pulling no more then 4,000. Under 50 mph everything felt fine. At times when going over 50 the truck was shaking. It would happen and then stop. It does not seem to be coming from the engine.
It would happen up hill and down hill. I was thinking it was just the vibration from the boat, can a load that size make the whole truck shake?? Also the truck made a horrible clunk after backing the boat down the ramp and pulling it back up. It happened when I took the truck out of park into drive. This can be something other then the transmission???