1984 Ford F-150. Yesterday, began to shutter like a screen door in a hurricane at 35 MPH. I hit the brakes, it pulled hard left. Figured some catastrophic failure of my brake system. Pulled over. Had it towed to mechanic. Mechanic says both front discs have to be replaced (calipers, pads, brake lines). Seem reasonable? Something about sticking calipers and warped discs, etc..
View 4 RepliesI have a 1984 Ford F150, has about 110,000 miles on it, been a outstanding vehicle. Recently, after I drive if for about 15 minutes, the vehicle feels like it's dragging something, like the brakes are slowing and steadily engaging without depressing them. And, along with this, a chemical odor is present. And if it is the master cylinder, does it make sense to repair considering the age of the vehicle and worth?
View 11 RepliesI have a 1984 Ford F-150 with an I6 engine and a motorcraft carburetor. The truck absolutely will not idle. So I got to looking at the carburetor, and found this red hose going from the carb to a metal pipe, the pipe was just dangling there not connected to anything, and the end it rusted off. I'm pretty sure I know where the other end is supposed to go to, I just don't know how to get there as obviously I am missing some parts and I can't find them so they must have been lost on the road somewhere.
Here's how it looks:
The end of the pipe:
Where it is supposed to end (I think)???
My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
Ok, my 2003 Ex Limited with 109,000 started doing the same thing today that it has done many times before. It started shuttering and then stalled. It comes out of nowhere and then the overdrive light flashes at the same time. I have had the coil packs replaced in the past, but not all of them at once. I also had the torque converter replaced last year as well. I am pretty sure that it's more coil packs that need to be replaced again. I'm sick and tired of replacing coil packs on this truck, it seems like they go bad very quickly. It's so bad I'm thinking about getting rid of this truck and getting something different.
View 14 RepliesWith normal acceleration my ex up shifts at about 50-55 mph and makes a shuttering noise and has a slight vibration briefly during the up shift. Could a tranny fluid change work?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 Xlt super crew with a 4.6L. I've noticed lately when I start from a full stop the the truck has a small shutter or hesitation before it starts accelerating. Its barely noticable but it is there. What it could be? I had the tourque converter replaced just before my warranty was up, I've only put 30000 Km on it since. Was wondering if it could be the cause.
View 3 RepliesI've recently purchased a 02 F-150 4x4 with 135k showing. About a week after purchase 4 COP's were replaced to eliminate a skip that started the day I drove it home. After a few hundred more miles it started shuttering at take off, much the same as the trans shuttering usually in higher gears/speeds. Only does it briefly in 1st gear and occasionally it goes into 2nd, but stops immediately after shift. After about 10 miles it stops doing it and until the trucks sits awhile it stays gone. About the same time a popping sound started coming from the rear axle at slow speeds. It changes sides as you drive and turn, and sometimes goes away intermittently altogether. Also is it possible or probable the two are related ?
View 4 RepliesI recently bought an 04 lariat crew cab with 56K miles 5.4 and auto trans. Before i bought it i complained about an exhaust noise and acceleration issue at 40mph and 1100 rpm as well as the ac not being very cold. They replaced the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, coil pack on the #3 cylinder, a transmission flush, a flash drive update and recharged the ac. This seemed to take care of the problem but i mostly drove under 30mph and did not notice it. I took it on a few road trips, and country roads and noticed the problem of sputtering and shuttering between 40-60 mph's after decelerating and slowly accelerating. The problem occurs consistently with ac and over-drive on in the above mentioned conditions and mph range. Problem is less noticeable with ac off and have not noticed it at all with over-drive off. It feels like a limited slip kicking in or driving on dry pavement in 4wd. Tranny shifts fine through all gears in a straight pull of acceleration and even full throttle pulls. Problem only occurs after decelerating and slowly accelerating. I don't know of any codes as I don't have a code reader, but I have not had any check engine lights come on nor has the dealer mentioned any codes.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Expedition with approx 135k miles with a 5.4. At approx 45 miles per hours it starts shaking and shuttering. It feels almost like you ran over one of those traffic bumps. I've had quite a few issues I've been working so I recently changed all my plugs with motorcraft platinum and all new COPs.
When I am going approx 45 miles per hour it will shutter for about 1-2 seconds with overdrive on. You can almost time it that it will do it every 4 seconds. With overdrive off, you can feel something dragging down the engine and hear a light grinding noise or a mechanical sound but the shuttering is less. I feel there is something definitely cycling approx every 4 seconds.
When i am doing heavy acceleration I feel that it has adequate power and now that I've replace the plugs/cops I don't feel any significant misses etc under hard acceleration (before I changed the plugs/cops I did feel misses).
My problem is I bought an 85 motorhome with the 460. After getting it home I realized the accelerator pump was leaking. The engine ran great and I drove it home over 100 miles. After pulling the carb I replaced the pump and put it back on. Then I had a big leak from the secondary bowl gasket, but the engine still sounded great. When I replaced the bowl gasket then I got a leak from my metal fuel transfer line between the bowls. Engine still sounded and idled great. Pulled the carb again and this time replaced the front bowl gasket the 2 o rings on the fuel line and put it back together. Now I have no fuel leaks but the thing would kind of Idle but it shuttered the motorhome like crazy and then die. It would start right back up and do the same thing.
So I had a leak. Engine ran great. Then I replaced
Both bowl gaskets
Both o rings on fuel rod
Accelerator pump and that' s it
What could my problem be. I have only made one adjustment and it was to the IDLE screw to keep it from dying but it still has the shakes.
I have had the check engine light on for a while now with the truck shuttering and bucking along with loss of power. Feels like there is something holding back the power. Just a couple days ago I was driving on the freeway and all of a sudden it felt like I was in neutral, tried to accelerate but the engine revved but wouldn't go anywhere, I clicked the overdrive on and it went into gear and I was able to drive home. Now every time I drive it, it goes a block or two in drive then again feels like neutral, put in overdrive and it goes into gear. I just put in new ignition coils.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 5.4L 4WD with 192k mi on it. Recently ( suddenly ) the vehicle began shuttering pretty alerting under light load at 35 - 45mph. The engine idle was intermittently smooth then rough. I quickly drove the truck home and ran a Trouble Code check with my Autoxray EZ-scan 4000 and found the two trouble codes P0302 and P0171. I have checked for vacuum hose cracks and found none.
Replaced the fuel filter, PCV valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor ( dirty ).
Right after cleaning the MAF sensor the idle remained smooth - but stumbling immediately when put in drive. Driving at 35-45mph still exhibits intermittent shuttering and occasional very short bursts of what feel like complete engine shut-down. This all is evident under light to moderate load .
At this point what would you recommend ? Replacing the O2 sensor bank #1 ? Or is there a possibility maybe the EGR valve is faulty - or another vacuum valve somewhere ? Intake manifold leak ?
The severe stumbling and very short complete engine shut downs would indicate that maybe the computer is failing or it's a fuel delivery issue? What rational steps to take next ?
I am fairly new to powerstrokes, but have a general understanding how the 7.3l operates, and how the fuel system works.
The problem i am experiencing is a crank, no start. The truck has been great for the year and a half that i have owned it. Always cranked great and never any starting or running issues. One day upon cranking, i started the motor; it started normal running good for a minute until the motor suddenly started shuttering and then the motor shut off, happened rather quickly. The truck started up immediately after that and died....repeating the shutter until dead. Now the truck will not start.
Specs on truck:
2002 7.3l
230,000 miles
Manual transmission
Here's what i have replaced so far:
New parts include:
IPR (motorcraft)
ICP (motorcraft)
EBPV (napa)
CPS (napa)
IDM (reman)
Here are some of the diagnostic values i have collected during cranking: (FYI: i am a little confused on what the values mean and what they should be in order for the motor to start):
ICP: 2218 psi
ICP duty cycle: 41%
EBP: 265 kpa
battery voltage: 12.0
Rpm: 355
Things i have checked so far:
Oil is new and level is good.
WTS light cycles as normal.
Fuel bowl is full and over flows with cap off while cranking.
Fuel tank is above half.
Glow plug relay is good.
I was throwing a code for the PCM, but i removed the bully dog tuner and the code has since cleared.
HPOP oil is an inch below full.
I made a gauge set and dead headed HPOP yielding 1500psi.
Upon cranking i am seeing some smoke, i guess, but its kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat.
This is where i am at so far. I don't have a way to buzz test the injectors or tell if they are leaking past the orings. I have the valve covers removed, but i have been putting off pulling the injectors to replace the orings.
Last week, my V10 started this. It does it in high torque conditions and under full throttle. Seems to hold gear at redline until you let completely off the accelerator. Power loss and shuttering are the main complaints. I will call my dealer to see what they think.
View 21 RepliesSo lately I have noticed this shuttering/stuttering when driving. It doesn't happen at any specific time its sort of random. I didn't know if its because of the extreme cold weather we have been having but its been happening too much. But I have also noticed a pretty gross oil smell coming from the car as well. What it could be?
View 5 RepliesI've been clambering over the truck (bought unseen) and working out what needs doing - and have noticed (glaring at me) the lack of belt running from the Fan Pulley up to the AC Compressor... I'm guessing the AC didn't work and this was a 'simple' way to de-commission it?
Is this a common 'fix' or do I need to worry and get belt on there? AC in the UK is only needed 3 days a year (if were lucky) so not worried if i don't have it.
Trucks a 6.9 Diesel
I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl. This car just all of a sudden started shuttering and not wanting to take off. It will if I floor it but will still shutter a little?
View 10 RepliesJust replaced my rear gas tank. Drove for a week with no big issues. Started running a little rough just thought it was debri in the fuel line. While it was sitting for a few days fuel was coming out of the carburator. It drained 15 gallons of fuel from the tank. There was pressure building in the tank when I took off the gas cap. Dropped fuel tank and everything seems to be hooked up ok. Put it back now added gas now the truck wont start even using starting fluid.
View 4 RepliesI didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
View 7 RepliesI bought a 84 ranger 2.0 that ran when parked sat for six months. Cranks all day long but only sparks when you shut the key off. Replaced the ignition switch (by key) ( someone told me there is another ignition switch under the dash?? is this true?) Tested the icm and it passed all wires seem to be fine. I am just wondering if something in the dizzy could cause this or possibly the starter solenoid?
View 9 Replies