Ford - F150 :: 1998 - Throw Out Bearing Not Allowing Pressure Plate To Make Proper Contact With Clutch
Jun 5, 2012
I have a 1998 Ford F150, Manual transmission. It has set for 1 year. Upon driving it for the first time yesterday, it gradually came to a stop. The clutch never smelled hot or appeared to slip. Today I took the inspection cover off and found a rather large nest has been built in the clutch and pressure plate. My question is could this nest cause the throw out bearing from allowing the pressure plate to make proper contact with the clutch. The truck will move in 1st gear and in reverse as long as there is no resistance against the truck.
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Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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So this has happened a few times pedal drops with no back pressure then give a bit pull it back up by hand and it's fine has happened 4 or so times in the last year. I'm reluctant to replace slave and master cylinders could it be anything else? 87 Ford F-150 hydraulic clutch
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I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
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I know this might not seem important but everytime I slam my trunk the license plate is making contact with the rear so it makes that rattle noise everytime I close it. It's annoying because sometimes I just want to close my trunk without being noticed. Toyota should've made two more holes at the bottom of the plate so this wouldn't happen.
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Just changed the engine oil on the 2012 TCH. I didn't pay close attention when I took the larger O-ring off the plastic canister and when I was putting a new one on, I wasn't sure where it fits.
There's a wider notch at the bottom of the threads. The new O-ring (Toyota Genuine) was a little bit lose fit in this spot, but this is where I put it as there seemed to be a angled bevel at the base of the filter mount where the canister fits into the engine. I did oil the O-ring and the bevel on the canister mount on the engine with new TGMO 0w-20. It was tightened to 25 Feet Lbs as listed on the plastic canister, but I could hear the friction with the O-ring. No leaks from what I can tell after the fill.
Then there's base of the flange on the plastic canister that sits flush to the base of the engine. The ring fit tight in this spot but then would be pinched between the engine and canister flange such that the canister flange won't make contact with the engine at all. I don't think this is where the larger O-ring should have gone.
Any pic of where exactly the large O-ring sits on the plastic canister?
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20thae with a UR 7lb flywheel and spec stage 3 clutch. Got rid of the dual mass flywheel and installed a lightweight flywheel and spec clutch now i have a god awful noise that is dead ringer for a throw out bearing noise. talked to the spec guy at waterfest today and he told me that the dual mass acts as a dampener and this just doesn't make any sense in my head. touch the clutch pedal in any gear at any speed and the noise disappears.. uy at spec said it was in the trans and the only option was to change for a thicker gear oil. p.s. i took out the clutch and everything back apart and measured everything is oem thickness and the throw out bearing is in good shape.
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I have a '10 manual trans gti. Only 16k miles on it. When starting cold and on an incline/decline at a certain level of clutch play, the transmission emits an odd chirping/whirring noise. Aside from the noise, the transmission is butter.
I brought in into the shop to get inspected and was able to replicate the noise for the technician. His thought was a bad throwout bearing.
Here's where it gets interesting. They quoted me about $600 labor just to confirm the issue. Should it be the throwout bearing, the replacement would be covered under warranty. labor would also be included. However, if they found it to be a wear product it would obviously be on me and stupid expensive.
Some people also thought maybe the clutch plate fingers are slipping? (I don't know that much about cars..)
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so lately I've been noticing a slight rattling/knocking noise coming from my car while it is in neutral and the clutch is not pushed it. When I push the clutch in, the noise goes away. I've read that this could be a sign of a bad throw out bearing? Is this right? If it is the throw out bearing, how long can I expect until it completely craps out on me? It seems to only do it on cold starts and sometimes on the uneven ground. I figured I should start saving some money to have this done because I'm not comfortable doing it myself.
Some other questions I had is my car is a 24v VR6 and it has 144k original miles. The timing chains and guides have not been replaced (to my knowledge at least). I know that replacing the throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission and so does doing the lower timing chain. If I get my throw out bearing replaced, should I have them do the chains also since they are already in there? I have no noise coming from my chains at all so there are no signs that they are going bad. Also, should I have my clutch replaced while they are in there? Again, no signs of a bad clutch either.
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I have a clicking binding noise while at idle, with the clutch out it goes away, when depressed its there. So, is this a bad throw out bearing? Clutches and flywheels?
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My throw out bearing makes a faint chirping noise since I bought the car, but now that the weather has been in teens, it seems to be louder.
I was wondering if it is possible to grease the throw out bearing or something without dropping the transmission.
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What is the proper tire pressure for these trucks (F250)?
Sidewall says max is 80 PSI.
Door jam says 71 PSI.
This is coming from a guy who has traditionally driven passenger cars and trucks. I've never even gotten CLOSE to advertised max PSI ratings. 71 seems awful close to max PSI.
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On my MKVI the tire pressure monitor warning light would go off once the tires were inflated to the proper pressure. Does the MKVII do that or do you need to reset the system after every warning?
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Well, got a 97 f150 4x4, and I have the abs/brake light on, and a really loud noise that sounds suspiciously like a bad bearing. So I go to my mechanic, who said it was the front passenger bearing going bad, and replaced it. Got the truck back, and its still noisy, abs light still on. The noise gets way quieter when I turn hard right. What the cause is? Or what I could check?
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I'm really not liking my carpet after 174k miles. I wanted to replace it with a vinyl one from rockauto. I've seen some trucks that had their carpet replaced with diamond plate, 1998 F150 Supercab. Unbolting the seats & bench and removing the carpet should be no problem for me, but the fabrication of the diamond plate floor seems to be difficult.
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My a/c bearing clutch is making alot of noise well i removed the cluch and snap ring and the bearing is still on there. How do i remove the bearing just pry it out or special tool? Its on a 99 f250 sd.
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I'm using a compressor clutch kit to try and pull off the compressor clutch plate from my '96 LT1. Using the tools I got the clutch plate almost all the way off but then it stalled. I've broken every one of the remover screws trying to get it off the last bit. I'm considering picking up a 3 jaw puller to get the job done.
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93 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4WD.....
Putting in a new clutch and clutch release bearing, and am wondering if I need to put the retaining ring in that came with the new clutch release bearing? When I took off the old release bearing, a ring did come off from somewhere, but I did not see where it was because it was so dirty.
The reason I ask is because my Haynes manual did not even mention a ring, so I was surprised to see one come off. And my manual does not say to reinstall the ring when installing the release bearing. I did get a newer Haynes manual at the library and looked through a bunch of Chilton, etc manuals.
The newer Haynes manual says to remove the retaining ring on 97 and newer models, but says nothing about putting it back in when reinstalling. So, I am not certain if I need to put a new retaining ring in with the new release bearing.
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I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
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I bought a 1999 F150 4.6 4x4 recently that is giving me some problems. The current one is the AC compressor. The system wasn't charged when I bought it a month or so ago and last week the compressor started smoking. I replaced it with a brand new one, including the clutch and pulley, accumulator and orifice tube. I never got the chance to charge the system because the first time I drove the truck the new compressor started freezing up. I took it back and exchanged it and put the new one in. This time I paid attention and the clutch engages as soon as I start the truck. The AC controls are off and there is no freon in the lines.
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