Ford - Fiesta :: Will Not Start / Key In The Ignition And All Interior Lights Came Up On Dash
Oct 9, 2015
Our 2011 Fiesta wouldn't start, key in the ignition and all the interior lights would come up on dash and interior. Friend of mine said, "sounds like a relay", came over and he swapped the low beam relay to the starter relay (said they where the same), car started just fine.
We put the bad relay in the glovebox, and planned to run to the auto store today. Except today it won't start in the exact same way it wouldn't start yesterday. Do i have 2 bad relay's in 2 days? Or as i suspect is this is a sign of a bigger issue?
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Is there a way to turn all interior lights on the dash off when the headlights are off?
It is so bright that you can't see in the dark with everything off without being blinded.
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The last month or so, I have noticed that my dash board lights (red lights) and my actual interior lights that come on when you open the doors to vehicle will flicker sometimes...And it can get bad I guess and annoying. It's more of it pulsating really. I noticed today while driving home and I had the radio on loud it was doing it and I do not know if was just in my head that it was doing it more when the radio was loud or what, but this is ridiculous.
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Have a 97 F150 4.2 that won't start. The lights come on in the interior. Dash lights all come on, turn the key and nothing. Replaced the solenoid on the firewall and no go. Was able to jump it at the solenoid on the firewall and it started. Not sure what's causing this.
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The Issue: Dash display reads "Passenger Door Ajar", interior lights stay on, drains battery
Current Fixes I've completed
Sprayed electrical cleaner in all 4 door latch assemblies (didn't work)
Relubricated all 4 door latch assemblies with food grade lithium grease (didn't work)
Replaced passenger door full latch assembly (didn't work)
What is my next step? I have noticed that if I wedge the door lock button on the driver's side door into the lock position, the door ajar message turns off and stays off? I was thinking wiring or relay issues?
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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I've observed that on a cold start first thing in the morning that there is a noise that appears to come with the depression/release of the clutch. This only occurs the first couple of times and then goes away. My drive is down a hill with speed bumps so the clutch gets used a couple of times shifting down from 3rd to 2nd. After the third/fourth/fifth depression of the clutch the noise goes away.
The car as of now only has 140 miles on it. My daily commute is 2.5 miles each way.
I've emailed the Ford dealer from where I purchased the car, but had no response.
Sounds like the clutch release bearing to me.
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I've been having a problem with some of the interior lights staying on and killing my battery each night. The lights that stay on are the climate control lights, gear shift light, and the lights on the door for the windows and locks. Every time i have to crank up i have to get it jumped off. If i pull the fuse out for the tail lights i no longer have the problem. I was wondering does it have something to do with the lighting control module or maybe the headlight switch.
I also have been having a problem with the a/c making this tapping sound behind the dash. Even with the a/c off you hear this constant sound as long as the car is on. I have no clue what is going on...
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Truck is a 2000 Excursion, V10 4x4 auto about 160k miles. Tried searching couldn't find anything relevant The problem is it wont start, not even a solenoid click, and the interior lights are blinking as if they were hooked to the turn signals (steady blinking and you can hear/feel the relay in the fusebox clicking). Turning on the key, hazard flashers or headlights makes the blinking go away, turning them back off starts it up again.
The blinking also effects the power windows (the windows go up about 1 inch at a time in time with the blinks). Hitting the panic button on the keyfob causes the horn to go off very faintly in time with the blinking. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did nothing. Checked all the fuses, they were all fine, the #1 and #2 position relays (the ones in the fusebox) are clicking in time with the blinking. The truck started doing this suddenly and with no warning (no dead batteries, jump starts or anything recently).
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I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
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The other day my daughter's 07 FSI v8 would not start; no power other than interior lights: no instrument power, no seat power, etc. Assumed a dead battery. Hooked jumper-cables, the fan start running, the panel came alive, it cranks, yet the air suspension lock is stuck on, EPS off is stuck on, etc.; assumed a dead battery caused all of this, since the alternator is pegging 14 and we have had a long cold spell. We drive it to the dealer an hour away to get the battery replaced; they test the battery and say its fine; no problems with the computer check-out. They say it must have been a random event; or something ran-down the battery (which is impossible, since you can't leave anything on).
No issues a week later, except I noticed the check-engine and the EPC amber lights are on. However, since my wife brought it back from the dealer, I don't know if these are error codes that were never reset from the initial event or if they are new. Will have to go back to the dealer to reset; check-out. My theory is the fan stuck on for some reason (since it will run independent of the cockpit power) and the battery charged-up on the one-hour drive to the dealer, thus all seemed OK to the dealer.
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My 4 cylinder 2009 Camry XLE has a strange intermittent starting problem. Twice in the last month when I tried to start it absolutely nothing happened. There was no sound and the interior lights did not come on. I suspected that it might be the battery even though the battery is only a year old. However, when I tried to start it a few minutes later it started with no problems. The only sign that something was wrong was that the clock was off by several hours and the radio had lost its presets. The symptoms were the same both times this happened, and between occurrences everything was fine.
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With A DeWalt 12V Battery....
I left the hatch up for a few days because I didn't drive it due to hot weather. The battery died on me of course. The dead battery measured 6.59v No amount of "battery recovery" time is going to recover it to start up the Prius. I charged up an old DeWalt 12V NiCad battery. I jump started the Prius with it. When I power down the Prius, the interior lights went back to really dim.
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ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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Our 2002 Passat 1.8 wagon has major electrical issues. Problems with the door locks, interior lights and believe it or not, the car will not start in the hot weather. The car also has to be started everyday or the battery gets drained for some odd reason...
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My 1985 Ford F-150 6 cyl. manual with overdrive would not start when I turned on the key, moved moved the key to start... It suddenly did nothing and all the dash light went out. I assumed the battery was run down and then tried to start it with my 2010 Ford car.
It still would not start and all dash lights went out. I then put my battery charger on the battery and charged fully charged the battery. I then turned the key off and back on and the dash light went on, tried to start again and the same thing happened. After about 10/15 minutes, I tried again and still did not start. I waited another few minutes, turned the key on and jumped from the battery positive to the starter cable after the starter solenoid and the engine started.
I ran it for a few minutes, and the backed it into the garage. The next day I again tried to start it and again, there was no power to the vehicle... no headlights, brake lights, dash light...nothing. I assumed the starter solenoid was burned out and replaced it. Still did the same thing. I replaced the fusible link on a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Still no power.
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I've had my '07 Volvo S40 2.4i for almost a year. It has a little over 60K miles on it and is serviced regularly. Within the last 3 months, I've noticed some weird things happening occasionally:
-Trouble starting when cold (I understand this is pretty common with a lot of cars.)
-Headlights & interior lights flickering
-Going over "bumps" in road causing dash display lights to illuminate for a second, radio to shut off, and loud system "BEEP" comes through the speakers (this has happened 3 times total, all on the same day.)
-AC stops cooling periodically I've had the system scanned for the AC issue and it seems that there was a "Pump pressure" message that cleared itself at one point and am guessing the same thing has happened the next few times it's done this.
I also asked that the battery be checked to see if it needed to be replaced soon. The mechanic said the battery was fine and thinks it's something wrong with the entire electrical system.
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Shut my truck off, now it won't start. Turn key to start position all proper lights appear on dash. No clicks,no nothing. Replaced a relay which owners manual shown as starter solenoid, man at auto parts said it was fried. Put new relay in still no change. checked everything I could find w/ ignition,starter,solenoid ,etc. fuses relays, according to pictures in owner's manual, they all appeared to be ok. Never,ever had any problems with this truck and charging system is working,IE: battery isn't shot.
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I recently aquired an f150 from a tenant, it's an 2003 with 219k, v6. When you first start it all the dash lights and needles go berserk and it will only run for a second, if you press the trip button over and over until eventually the lights are solid it starts and runs fine. If you disconnect the battery for a while it will also start and run fine. What this is? Guy also said the intake runner control valve is stuck open, where is that at?
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I'm trying to get an F150/1997 started that's been sitting for about 2 years. After installing the battery, turning the key, nothing happens. No click, no turnover, nothing. The dash lights come on along with open door chime.
What to check first or troubleshoot this? The vehicle was running fine when parked, battery removed. I was thinking the brake pedal switch might be corroded, or maybe someone unplugged something under the hood or tampered with something.
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Just bought this as a daily driver. This being my first truck and USED with over 100k in miles, I got it at a deal, but I am worried it might be a lemon. The engine is giving off 8 codes (listed below) that I pulled off my obd2 wifi scanner. This morning was a failure to start with all lights appearing on the dash. There is allot of accumulation around the terminals on the battery as well but the scanner read nothing about a faulty charge. I am trying to have my truck working soon so I can stop asking for rides ... broke down (5.4L triton straight piped )...
ERROR CODES:
P1131
P0171
P0174
P0316
P1151
P0401
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