Ford Fuel System :: 1974 F250 - Howling Noise Coming From Carburetor?
Jun 26, 2009
I have a 74 f250 with a 67 352 and a 2150 carb. I have noticed that after driving the truck for a while and when its nice and hot, if I shut it off I hear a funny "howling" noise coming from the carb. It does it for about 5 seconds, then goes away. I rebuilt the carb and it still makes the noise. Also when I am driving it, when I have the pedal at a certain point, I can hear a lot of vacuum, I have checked for vacuum leaks, and there are none. The other question I have is, the 352 was out of a standard shift truck, mine is an auto, so I have nowhere to hook my tranny kick down rod to. How I can fix that, besides replacing the carb?
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I have a 77 f-250 with a 460 engine and a 4bbl Motorcraft carb and its leaking a substantial amount of fuel out of the newly replaced filter that is attached to the carburetor. The fitting is tight and I even tried buying some small gaskets to seat it, but that didn't work either.
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Thought I would check and see if it's possible to store a Carburetor. Have a Holley 4160 that I rebuilt and would like to keep as a backup. Thought since the carb has not been installed the gaskets and seals may not be an issue. Other option, swap the Carb on my truck every few months.
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I have gas leaking from the pump diaphragm assembly cover of the motorcraft carb,2BBL,360,75,auto.Is this easily repairable,or is a new carb in my future?
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Would like to replace the 2 1/2" aluminum ported 4bbl spacer down to an inch or so. Finding it difficult locating 'ported' aluminum spacers, however, there are several brands of the 'composite' type?
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I rebuilt a 1963 ford 2B crburetor with manual choke. Put the carburetor on and it runs very rough. Won't go below 800 rpm or it dies and I need to choke it to start. Thought it was a vacumn leak so sprayed WD -40 and no change in idle. So pulled off the carburetor and put on the previous carburetor (with electric choke) and it runs great. I want to use the manual choke to hook up the cable though. I replaced everything in the carb. What do you think it is?
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Have a Howling coming from my single gas tank, truck was sputtering now and then. Yesterday it died and would not start. Towed it home and then it started. Think its the fuel pump, Is it tough to change.... 2005 F250 Super Duty109K Miles...
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i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
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2004 F250, I am getting this howling noise when applying the brakes. It sounds like it is from the left front and is more prevalent when applying the brakes down an incline (off ramp, etc) I pulled the wheels off and the pads were probably 50-60% worn. I bought some new pads and installed them and I still get the same noise. I didn't buy the cheap pads, nor the most expensive either. Either way, I can't figure it out. Would I need new rotors? I would think I would have some vibration if the rotors were warped. My other thought was the caliper, but when I replaced the pads it compressed fine and I lubed the slide rails. Not sure what to do at this point. The truck has 94,000 miles on it, FX4, Lariat, Crew Cab, and it has the 5.4L in it.
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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Got a weird "howling" (best description) noise coming from the rear. Only happens when letting off the gas. As soon as I start to accelerate it goes away. Let off the gas it comes back. Started Saturday.
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
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I have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
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I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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I have a F-250 4WD with 7.5L which has a MC/Holley 4180c sitting on top. It was getting very poor mpg (like 5-6 miles/gal) and then was getting harder and harder to start. This progressed rather quickly to not starting with fuel coming out of the primary vent tube. I suspect it has to do with the primary float stuck open. I was considering rebuilding the carburetor. Is this over reaction prematurely or is there something like float adjustment that may rectify all of the symptoms described. If a rebuild is in order what is the information I would need to ensure getting the correct rebuild kit. Info that I have so far from research is it is Motorcraft ID #E5HE-9510-MC.
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I have an 88 E350 With a 460 EFI . Problem is there fuel is coming out of the ecs canister . It has the dual canister set up fuel comes out of the rear one after the engine starts. I have never seen this before. What would cause this ?
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I have a 1986 F150 6 cyl, dual tanks, no AC, manual fuel pump. Just recently, I have been having issues with the tanks. At first it seemed like the back tank was siphoning from the front tank. Now I have fuel coming out of my front tank filler neck. When I open the back tank gas cap, there is enough pressure to spray me with gasoline. I am not familiar with the fuel delivery system of my truck ...
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I was letting my truck idle to work on a cooling issue when I noticed oil coming from my fuel pump! What would cause this? It wasn't coming from were the pump bolts to the timing cover it was coming out of the side of the pump it looked like? I'm going to get a new one.
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Working on my cousin's 84 F150 351w HO with a Holley 4180 4bbl and auto trans.
I rebuilt the carb because of sticking floats (that and it was filthy and sitting). It fired up and I drove it to my uncle's shop a ways down the road before even adjusting anything. At the shop, it fires right up, idles great and floats and idle mixture screws are now adjusted.
It has a dead spot right off of idle that's been driving me crazy, and stalls in gear if I'm not careful with the pedal.
After reading around here, I looked down the carb to make sure the fuel was squirting as soon as the throttle moved, and noticed there was NO FUEL squirting from the nozzles. So that explains the dead spot...
There was just the needle, then the nozzles, then the screw that went in, same as they came out (only cleaner). Wondering where to go from here to get these working again. Going to pull the nozzles off and see if there's anything obvious going on in there.
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