I got a new ipr an looking in the oil pump end there's a small spring with a screw n the middle. Is this a pressure adjustment for the valve or what any body no. I have a 97 power stroke that when i start it cold idles fine as engine warms it starts to miss . I have changed everything i mean everything but ipr and map sensor.
View 1 Replieswe just replaced the intake manifold and also put on new spark plug wires and plugs. now the engine is missing but only after it warms up. i double checked all the wires and connections and they looked good. is there something obvious that i should look at since it is still doing it?
View 2 RepliesRecently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
My truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
View 1 RepliesOne day after my mechanic replaced the heater core my truck started to misfire after the motor warms up and is under load. No codes and nothing pops up when hooked up to o a scanner. It's been cold in the morning and when I start it up it runs like a top. But after it warms up it start to miss a little, then it gradually gets worse especially when under a load at higher speeds. I thought it was a vacuum hose or something got left unplugged.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0L. Just had a used motor with 108k miles put in. Had the motor studded, fire ringed, new injectors, new glow plugs, new radiator fluid filter system installed, had egr delete done, ficm board replaced, fuel pump replaced, a few other small items replaced as well. The problem I'm having is the truck runs like it has a miss until it warms up.
After that, it runs fine. It takes about 10/15 miles of driving before it runs like it should. Letting it run in the driveway for 10/15 minutes to warm up doesn't make a difference. When the truck starts, it lopes at an idle for about 5 mins before turbo kicks in & starts whistling. When I start driving it shakes & feels like it has no power until it warms up. Then you'd never know anything was wrong. Put way too much $ into the truck so far and can't keep going.
My feed truck (2001 ext cab 4x4 7.3 198k) had a cold starting issue I fixed with new gp relay. Now I noticed when it gets down below 30 degrees it has a cylinder miss until motor warms up. I don't doubt injectors are in my future. I was wondering though if that is common for worn injectors or if maybe something else has gone haywire and how long can I run it like that before something else tears up? after about 7-10 min the miss goes away and I don't notice it. I would like to get through the winter before messing with it or having injectors put in it...
View 14 RepliesI just replaced the ignition coil as recommended by the computer and the car ran fine for a few days. Now it starts missing about a mile after starting, for a while. Then it almost never misses after it is fully warmed up. The computer does not find any issues at this time.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 88 with 79k. When the engine is warm and my foot is off the gas, the car occasionally dies. I can restart it each time this occurs.
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 Wrangler 4 liter that lurches violently. It runs fine until the engine is warmed up. After the engine warms up it it begins lurching. When I put the clutch in, the lurching stops. When I let the clutch out, it is okay for 1-2 seconds (i can get power and advance the vehicle), then I put the clutch in and repeat that process. When I give it a little gas with the clutch in, the engine runs smooth - so it doesn't appear to be a gas problem. When I give it gas with the clutch out it lurches violently.
After pulling it into my garage I let it idle to about 5 minutes. It idles rough and is about to stall, when it apparently shoots a little more gas preventing it from stalling.The check engine light has come on. I took it to my local mechanic who cannot find the problem. The "computer code" indicates a faulty oxygen sensor. He also checked the fuel pressure which is okay.It has 120K miles and otherwise has been a great vehicle. It has been well maintained.
I have a holley 390 cfm carb on a 78 F250, 300 I6 with headers and an offy dp intake. Somewhere i am getting way too much fuel to the engine and it is sputtering and smoking bad. I have checked the float level, needle and seat, and power valve. All seemed ok but i replaced the power valve and needle and seat on the primary side just to be sure. Even with the float level adjusted way low and the idle mixture screws turned way in the truck would still sputter and spew out black smoke at idle and all throttle positions. I can't figure out where the gas is coming from. I checked to make sure the butterflies were closed and they were. I looked down the throat of the carb when it was running and didn't see any gas rushing in. When i take the carb off the bottom is soaked and the gasket and spacer is all soaked and theres gas sitting in the bottom of my intake. Where is this gas coming from?
View 14 RepliesIs it fair to assume that my filter is clogged when I turn over the engine and fuel does NOT come out of the filter with the uphill line disconnected. I was able to disconnect the rear line from filter and fuel DID pump out of line when I cranked it over. Been dealing with a crank no start, I'm in the process of trying to test my CPS properly but not sure if I'm testing it right.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles....
I am unable to get fuel delivery from tanks to engine in normal operation. I can however get pumps working with jumper wire to them. It will start with ether but not stay running on it's own. Could this be a relay or something in tfi thing ?
View 14 RepliesI'm dripping fuel on top of the engine at the fuel filter . Where the line ties into the filter canister, there is a small plate that's attached with small Allen screws its dripping between this plate and the canister .... I assume there is a gasket/oring that is causing it ...... What is the part number or correct description so I can go to ford dealer and get one. It's a 2007 Ford 4x4 6.0 diesel.
View 2 RepliesI have a99 5.4 and its missing slightly when cold mostly. I'm thinking egr poss did tune up 7 mos ago so I don't think it's plugs or coil pacs seems to get better when it warms up...
View 11 RepliesI was looking at my exhaust manifold..and I found a couple of studs missing...so if I want to replace both of them , is it better if I replace all of them on both sides of the engine ?
By the way..my exhaust manifold is good I don't think none of the studs are broken.. but I have been having this engine knocking noise on my engine, do yall think a couple of studs could be the problem of why my engine is knocking?
A while ago, the front (mid) tank on my '97 F350 4x4 stopped functioning. I thought that because when I'd switch to the front tank, it died. I decided to put it off and use the rear tank cos it worked.
Today I accidentally bumped the fuel tank switch to front, and it was working! Truck didn't die then I noticed the fuel gauge pegged past full. Having tested older trucks by grounding out the gauge sending unit wire, it would peg past full. So I think I had an electrical issue that caused the front fuel pump to stop working in the first place, not that it went bad as I originally thought...
So, does that mean the front fuel pump had been working all this time, just not grounded? Does the front fuel pump ground itself on the tank or is there a grounding point? I currently can't find any way to see how it was grounded, as it's crusty and all.
I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
This miss feels like the engine is stopping not just missing but jerking the car for one cylinder. If I just barely hold speed it is minimized or if I step on it it will stop so I'm pretty sure it's not ignition wires or coils etc.. I would suspect pre-ignition but it's been going on a long time ( a year at least) while I've been half fast trying to figure it out so if it's pre-ignition then this is a hell of a strong engine. I have suspected a slightly sticky injector because of the working fine at more throttle. 1997 3.4DOHC Monte Carlo
View 3 RepliesWe have an early model 460 with carburetor (circa 1976) in a boat. We need to exchange motors and have a line on a 1994 460 engine, fuel injected. Will the carburetor manifold we have fit in place of the fuel injected manifold and just run a carbureted manifold? Since this is for a boat there is no computer, no port for the exhaust sensor, and no sensor for the speed control. Its a plain and simple carburated motor.
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