Ford Fuel System :: CEL Comes On Indicating Low Voltage On The Mass Air Meter
Feb 19, 2013
I have a 5.0 with the Explorer intake, GT40 heads, RJM harness, E303 cam, and a A9M computer in a '68 Mustang.
When you let off of the throttle the CEL comes on indicating low voltage on the MASS air meter. I changed the MASS from the '89-93 5.0 Fox Mustang meter to a new '94 Cobra style meter, reset the computer and it does the same thing (immediately).
Current intake setup is the Explorer throttle body, an '89-93 Fox 45* elbow, MASS air meter and a double cone Spectra air filter mounted directly on the meter.
I don't really have room to go cold air unless the battery goes in the trunk and since this is my wife's daily driver, I am reluctant to. Car is running open loop at 12mpg.
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Started the car about an hour ago. Pulled out of the driveway went about 15 feet up the road. Noticed the dashboard light with the (!) was illuminated and I didn't even turn off ESP. Shifted to about second gear power cut off engine shut off.
Pushed the car back into my driveway scanned it with VAD.
16486 P0102098
Air mass meter-G70: Signal too low
[static]
edit: car idles higher than normal. sounds like MAF is toast?
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Truck is a 1993 ranger 4.0 ohv
Ok I have been getting 157, 158, and 159 codes. I have cleaned and replaced the MAF with no success. I checked the voltage to the sensor 12v, checked the voltage from the signal wire and it is to high. It has been high on the cleaned unit and on both replacements, so I am thinking it is not the MAF, but what will cause it to register high. I cant get the signal voltage below 1.9V at idle.
Signal also reads high with the ignition on and the engine off. What would cause the voltage to be high, I have read it could be an IAC but I would think that would not effect it with the engine off.
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Most cars have either an idiot light or a volt meter. This 1995 Buick Park Avenue has both in the same pod. The customer complains that the red light comes on intermittently, but the voltage continues to read just above 13 volts. Sometimes it's dim or flickering, others it's bright. It seems to be more prevalent when the headlights are off, rather than when it is under a heavier load with them or the A/C on. I have not had an opportunity to see the car. It has not failed to start.
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The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?
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I drove to the mall and left the car there, when I was done and tried starting, it fired up but the rpms started to fall and CEL came on. CEL are:
-16497 P0113 050 Intake air temperature sender-G42 Signal too high
-16486 P0102 050 Air mass meter-G70 signal too low
And after it died it cranks but never fires up. I called the dealership trying to find out where the IAT sensor is but they said it's in the manifold and not sure where. Where is IAT sensor?
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I have a '99 E-350 6.8L. Where is the check valve that maintains fuel pressure on the system?
I have been experiencing a starting issue when the engine is hot. Cold starts are usually fine. I've replaced the in-tank fuel pump (pump only, not the assembly) to no avail. I was out of town and didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge when the problem started so I couldn't say what I had prior to replacing the pump. But now, with a new pump, when I check pressure, I get about 40 psi when I first cycle the key on, but it drops right back to zero as soon as the pump shuts off. If I cycle the key on a few times, sometimes I can get it to hold pressure at about 32 psi, and it starts fine. When I shut if off, it goes back to zero psi, sometimes gradually, like a bleed down, and sometimes immediately.
My conclusion from this was that the check valve was bad. I was told it was part of the in tank fuel pump assembly. Since I didn't replace the entire assembly, this made sense. So I just dropped the tank back down, but I don't see anything as part of the pump assembly that serves as a check valve. There is a rubber nipple on the end of the return line, but I don't see how that can hold any significant pressure.
So, before I go out and spend another couple hundred bucks on the complete fuel pump assembly, which apparently can't be purchased without the actual pump, I thought I'd ask. Where is the check valve that holds the pressure in the fuel system?
BTW, I also have replaced the fuel rail pressure regulator, but it made no difference (I went there first since that was much easier than dropping the fuel tank a second time).
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Just wondering about the "miles to empty meter", should I disregard it when I have high mpg? (50-60 mpg)
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I need an explanation of the screen's information when the screen reads for "Trip B." What is the meaning of the MPG? Does it mean the MPG since I reset the Trip B meter?
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Suspect I have a bad fuel pump. I checked for power thru the Inertia Switch. When I first energize the ignition I receive 12v after a couple seconds it drops to 7v. Is this normal? I checked at the connector to pump module and see the same reading. I swapped fuel pump relay and same readings. Just want to makew sure I dont have some other issue before doing pump.
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New to this site, my problem is on my 2003 4.6L fuel pump not working.My problem is that I am not getting voltage to contacts on pcm and fuel pump relays.
Getting volts to #30 fuse 30amps ok, voltage to pcm diode ok. Voltage on #30 on both relays(pcm & fuel) but I am loosing voltage across coils contacts #85 & #86, these makes hot #30 & #87 to make pump work. Inertia sw ok, Don't know if PCM is bad, ck fuse #2 ok 5 amps.
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I have a 1998 Ford F150 with 4.2.. Started off a intermittent problem of not starting acct no fuel. Now will not start at all. Checked all fuses and relays.. Am not getting voltage at fuel pump. Changed ECM thinking that was the problem.. Have checked all multi wire connectors for corrosion and tightness. Am at a lost what to try next.
Also, not sure if its related or not. The turn signals and hazard flashers do not work. When I turn on the hazard flashers, nothing happens. If I leave the flashers switch on, the turn signal work. Checked all fuses and relays and they appear good.
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My Jeep Commander 2006 (a problem vehicle until i had it repaired/much replaced by non-dealer service center, i.e., i know that these are 'finicky' cars on their best days), the engine light comes on steadily/not flashing indicating poor quality fuel. It did this 60mi after this last fill up at the gas station, and it did so after 60mi following the previous fill up. The engine light then goes off -as Jeep told me it would - after driving it about 60-70miles. this happened a couple of times last summer as well. I've tried going to different gas stations in the area thinking different stations would have different fuel suppliers, but what i noticed is that BP and Sunoco for example are getting delivery from same truck. ?: how can i determine quality of gas before I put it into tank? I always put in premium but it doesn't matter what the label says if the quality isn't any good.
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I went to move the 2000 yesterday and it will not start because the gas went bad. It has been sitting about 6 months, since it did not snow this past winter. How do I go about cleaning the fuel system? I was thinking suck the gas tank empty with an electric fuel pump, and blowing out the lines with air. Does this sound right?
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I have a 2005 accent that keeps blowing the ecu 1 fuse. It is also showing a code for "system voltage low", and the battery is wet around both posts. I read somewhere else that the alternator could be surging and blowing this fuse. Had both alternator and battery checked at autozone, battery is said to be on the way out and alternator shows its fine. Battery does not show any problems, start car just fine.
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C1241 is low voltage warning and C1223 is an ABS control system malfunction.
Are or could these be related? Where should I start to troubleshoot the issue?
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So I moved my Walbro to the engine bay and reran my wires. Now I couldn't find the most detailed DIY to use for reference but I ran a 20A circuit breaker from terminal 75x under the dash. From there an inline relay that I believe is hooked up correctly.
So I noticed my fuel pump wasn't running while the car is running. It wasn't even priming so I started checking connections and what not. I then noticed that when my power wire is connected to the pump I only read about 4V on the pump. If I disconnect the line and test it with no load applied I get 12-13V steady.
I thought maybe my pump had gone bad but if I apply 12v straight to it it runs just fine.
So my question is WTF!? Electronically this doesn't make sense. Physically it makes no sense. I moved the wires from one side of the car to the other. Nothing changed. Why would I be losing so much voltage with the load applied?
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