Jeep - Commander :: Check Engine Light Comes On Steadily / Not Flashing Indicating Poor Quality Fuel
Mar 14, 2011
My Jeep Commander 2006 (a problem vehicle until i had it repaired/much replaced by non-dealer service center, i.e., i know that these are 'finicky' cars on their best days), the engine light comes on steadily/not flashing indicating poor quality fuel. It did this 60mi after this last fill up at the gas station, and it did so after 60mi following the previous fill up. The engine light then goes off -as Jeep told me it would - after driving it about 60-70miles. this happened a couple of times last summer as well. I've tried going to different gas stations in the area thinking different stations would have different fuel suppliers, but what i noticed is that BP and Sunoco for example are getting delivery from same truck. ?: how can i determine quality of gas before I put it into tank? I always put in premium but it doesn't matter what the label says if the quality isn't any good.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I'm having problems with my accent, is been running not so good , and had a check engine light, indicating a misfire cylinder 3 and 4, i was told to put a can of Seafoam on the gas tank, but that didn't work. I replace the spark plugs (not the wire) and air filter and still running bad. Is not happening all the time (check engine light) but you can tell is running ruff at all time. I don't know if I need to change the spark plugs wires. I don't think is the spark plugs wire, they don't look bad or damage.
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My mother-in-law is having problems with her Jeep. It will shut itself off while she's driving it. It's intermittent, and of course, the mechanic can't find the problem when it's in the shop. She thinks it's because she might have switched to a poorer-quality gas, but she's had it at 3 repair shops, and no one can find the source of the problem. Only one mechanic has gotten it to malfunction for him, but he still can't figure out what's the problem.
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I have a 2008 Jeep Commander that shut off while driving at any speed. Paid the dealer twice to research and all they can say it's the catalytic converter. If it was that it wouldn't start up every time it shuts off.. Let's start there first they say. My jeep shut off at any speed or just waiting for a red light to change. But dangerous because it will shut off with out a warning in the middle of making a turn. I have notified Chrysler but no answer to my problem.
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My 2007 Jeep Commander cut out while I was driving on a precarious mountain road in sub zero conditions. We live in a remote, wild, and frozen part of Idaho and I rely on my Jeep to get my children around this sparsely populated area, so when my Jeep "just stopped running" while I was driving it yesterday I was scared to death. I was able to restart it and immediately took it to a mechanic. He said he can't be sure, but his best guess would be that it needs a new Crank Sensor - but he can't guarantee that will be the solution. So I either take a chance and put in the new Crank Sensor or "spend a load of money on diagnostics". Car just cutting out while driving, what was the problem/solution?
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I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
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I have a tan 4-door 2006 Jeep Commander with a little over 100,000 miles. I recently had some work done to the rear end transmission. When I had hit the gas when going at high speeds, there was a loud vibrating noise coming from the bottom and rear of the vehicle, and when going downhill there was a loud whistling type of sound. Initially, my mechanic, who I've been going to for the last 8 years, looked at the vehicle and gave me a worst case scenario that the whole rear end might have to be replaced. He said it could cost a grand or more. The whole rear end did not have to be replaced. My mechanic did work on the car and fixed I don't know what on the rear end.
Before my mechanic gave me the car back he said there would be a slight whistling type sound when driving. And there is a whistling type sound, every time I hit the gas going about 20mph or more. Although my vehicle does drive and sound substantially better, this sound is driving me crazy when I'm driving. My mechanic said that there is nothing that can be done without replacing the whole rear end. Is this true? Can anything else be done to minimize or eliminate this whistling type sound?
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I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee with 104,000+ miles. It runs great and doesn't have any issues. However, i started it up this morning and the check engine light came on. Should this be concerning? I haven't done any real maintenance on it since it runs so well. And i guess that's my other question - what should i do to the Jeep to keep it running for another 100,000+ miles? Spark plugs? Timing belt??
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My Jeep check engine light comes on man said it was a EVAC problem...is this a multiple sensor issue? yes I checked the gas cap
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I got a new-to-me Jeep Liberty 2005 in February. The check engine light came on after a few weeks. Our mechanic replaced the catalytic converter twice. After the second replacement it went out after we drove for a while, but after the second one it never went out. We are now using high-test gas (to prevent carbon buildup?), but that hasn't worked either. I need to pass the emission test soon.
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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0. Check engine light will not go out. Took to Autozone , Orileys ,and Jeep Dealer. No codes found. Replaced cooling fan relay, when light first came on. Everything works fine now. Have tried myself to shut light off, disconnect batt. cables 10 min, 30 min. and other methods, no luck , still, on ? I have even traced the cooling fan relay wire to PCM, all OK.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2.8 Diesel. It has about 57000 miles on it and when I took it to be inspected, a Code PO 299 came up. The dealer has done quite a bit of work to it and cannot find a way to get this light to stay off. When something is done, it goes off until it is driven, then it comes on again. So far the jeep runs great, but it's hard to pass inspection unless the light goes out.
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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Have a Volvo XC70 and LOVE it! Recently ETS light came on and Check engine has always been on, mechanics did not seem to worried in past. As of the last month seemed to be issue with thermostat... Car would warm to normal when idling and driving below 25 mph... once I accelerated needle would drop and thermostat would go to baseline... Could feel faint warm air, but was only getting cold air coming from vents... Thought it might be thermostat stuck open?
Called my trusted mechanic and he recommended going to a radiator specialist, felt he might not be able to solve. Went to new shop today, after dropping off at 8am when they opened and not hearing from them until 4:45pm, 15 minutes before they close... Car is fixed, or so they say. Hot air is indeed coming out of vents and needle is staying where it should without falling...
BUT, now there is a strange smell (sulfur"ish") coming from the engine, and the car is shuddering and vibrating, bucking almost when car comes to a stop and then accelerates. ETS light is back on and check engine is now flashing!?! Tried going up hill on the way home and could not go faster than 20mph? None of this was happening before I took it in to the new shop today? They changed oil and oil filter and flushed radiater?
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So this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
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I have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. The check engine light, keeps coming on, and the scan tool, shows P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Misfires in #1, 2 & 3 cylinder.
I replaced the Coil Pack & all spark plugs with genuine jeep parts from the dealer. What might be wrong or other things to check?
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
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