Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - No Crank / Whizzing Noise / Starter Is Spinning But Not Engaging
Aug 9, 2015
My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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My 09 LS w/ 65k on it wont start. last night i drove the car around to several places, and on my last stop of the day i couldnt get the car to start. finally after several tries, it fired right up. but today, no such luck.
All the lights come on (and I have charged my batery with a tender to be sure its not the battery), the steering wheel moves in to position, and I either get a click, or a buzzing sound.
Sounds like starter, any other opinions?
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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My 40 Ford pickup is on an 86 Ranger chassis and uses the stock Ranger steering gear. My question is about the connections on the steering box. I'm using a GM power steering pump and several steering gear vendors have told me that outside of needing to adjust the pressure for the correct feel, the combo works. I fired the truck for the first time tonight but the steering wheel went crazy, shaking around and finally spinning on it's own to a hard left.
Some quick research leads me to believe that I have the lines reversed but it would be great to know for sure. I did manage to find on e diagram of a Ford PS box on Google and it shows the lines reversed of what I have set up on my truck and I can't for the life of me remember how I figured out what the plumbing should be when I installed it. Which port on the box is the inlet and which is the return?
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I have a 1988 ford ranger and my headlights won't turn on all my fuses are fine but no headlights! All the other lights work fine blinkers, parking, brake ,and tail lights! What do I need to look for????
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My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
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Any way to tell if the ECU is faulty? I hooked my analyzer up to my friends 1988 Ford ranger 2.3L and it wouldn't even detect that the ignition switch was on. He was driving it the other day and is shut off on him while he was making a turn and it wouldn't start back up. We have rebuilt the distributor by replacing the pick-up, rotor button and cap, and we had the ignition module tested and found it was good. We have also replaced the coil. When the ignition is turned to the on position, the fuel pump comes on and never cycles off.
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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It's an 88 2.9 and sounds like a little diesel! The fellow I purchased it from said the valves need tightened, I thought perhaps a timing chain, but figured valves would be an easier place to start. Yet, I'm not sure where to begin? Or how tight the valves need to be, are there torque specks?
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I have an 88 ranger with the 2.9l. The headlights work and the markers do to. The brights don't though. and also none of the turn signals work, the brake lights work though but i don't think the reverse do, I can't see them. Do the turn signals and brights share a fuse on there own? How to diagnose it or what it may be?
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I've got a 1988 2wd Ranger with a 2.9l v6. I just recently got it running. It has been setting for awhile. I replaced fuel tank, both pumps, fuel filter, Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, TPS. It ran great for about 100 miles. Then yesterday on my way to work about 4 miles down the road it started to miss/stumble especially at about 55mph while in overdrive. When I got home I pulled the codes and I got KOEO 22 Map sensor signal out of voltage(engine off), 53 TPS signal voltage to high, 95 Thermactor Air System Problem, or Fuel Pump Monitor signal, indicates circuit problem.
KOER I got 21 ECT sensor signal voltage out of range or loss of signal during normal operation or Crank Sensor problem, doesn't have a crank sensor I believe. But I did change the ECT sensor and it still stumbles and seems like it misses. Noticed it is sluggish getting up to speed kinda surges and bogs. Im at a loss it isn't showing any more codes. Checked all plug wire connections and made sure everything was making connection. The only other thing I can think of is that the ignition module on back of distributor is going bad. Not advancing the time correctly.
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My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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Bought my third 88 ranger today, drove it 55 of 60 miles home and it died. It lost power and acted like the coil was going bad. This one is a 2.9 5 speed 4x4. The a/c compressor is gone; but the 365 a/c works okay, or did.
My daughter was following me in her car; by the time we got back with my F150 and a chain, it started and ran until it was a half maile from home then lost power and died again.
Drug it home, put a new coil on and it started and revved up fine. Went to move it a couple of hours later and it will crank with the starter, but not fire.
I am getting 12 volts to the primary side of the coil, is there any way to check the TFI module without taking it off the distributor? (they are so accessable).
Or is there something else that I need to check? I really don't want to just throw money at it, I like to know for sure what is wrong before I buy parts.
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So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
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I've got a 1982 Courier 2.0 2wd 5speed pickup and it's been passed down through my family and has sat for quite a while so I started tinkering with it in my spare time.
I began with the motor and got it to run after 15 years of sitting around but am having issues with the transmission. When I first got it running a while back i had it in gear and when I let out on the clutch it lunged forward a little and stalled. I have since then towed it a short distance across my yard (in neutral of course), but now it seems like it isn't doing anything while it's in gear.
While its running I can put it in gear (even without the clutch) it doesn't grind jump or anything. Everything feels like it's okay as in going into all the gears. I was wondering if this is possibly clutch related or if it's the trans itself. Or maybe some electrical thing related. I haven't taken anything apart yet in hopes that it's something simple. I was curious if it might be low on fluid and maybe that would cause it not to engage properly?
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I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 4.0 L with what appears to be a unique a/c problem. Over the last week the compressor will not kick on immediately and seems to randomly decide when it is going to function. Once it starts, it runs properly and cools well, until I turn the engine off and it is back to square one. We have checked the coolant level and it is full. the problem seems to be getting progressively worse....At first it took about 15 minutes for it to decide to trip, then 30 minutes, and yesterday I drove for over an hour and the compressor never kicked on.
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My 1988 XLT 4x4 2.9L truck can't make up it's mind. Oil light comes on when ever it wants. I replaced it with a new one to make sure it wasn't bad. My lifters start clanking then they'll stop making noise when ever . Oil light goes out.Runs great. I let it Idle and once warm oil light pops on again. Rev it up light goes out then comes back on at higher rpm. Let Idle lifters clank again...and so on. seems erratic. Weak oil pump???? slop plugging pick up screen??? I'm running 20w50 oil is has 188,000. It ran today for 1/2 hour no oil light no noise then Here we go again..clanking valves ,oil light on...
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I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
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