Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 XLT V6 Won't Start Just Crank
Nov 24, 2004
I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
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Any way to tell if the ECU is faulty? I hooked my analyzer up to my friends 1988 Ford ranger 2.3L and it wouldn't even detect that the ignition switch was on. He was driving it the other day and is shut off on him while he was making a turn and it wouldn't start back up. We have rebuilt the distributor by replacing the pick-up, rotor button and cap, and we had the ignition module tested and found it was good. We have also replaced the coil. When the ignition is turned to the on position, the fuel pump comes on and never cycles off.
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My 1988 XLT 4x4 2.9L truck can't make up it's mind. Oil light comes on when ever it wants. I replaced it with a new one to make sure it wasn't bad. My lifters start clanking then they'll stop making noise when ever . Oil light goes out.Runs great. I let it Idle and once warm oil light pops on again. Rev it up light goes out then comes back on at higher rpm. Let Idle lifters clank again...and so on. seems erratic. Weak oil pump???? slop plugging pick up screen??? I'm running 20w50 oil is has 188,000. It ran today for 1/2 hour no oil light no noise then Here we go again..clanking valves ,oil light on...
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I have a 1988 Ranger 2.9 V6 that sits most of the time. The fuel pump quit working so I removed the bed and replaced the pump in the tank and the inline filter near the engine. I did not replace the inline high pressure pump because it still made a humming sound so I assumed it is working. Now when I turn the switch on I hear both pumps working but the truck will not start. It seems like it wants to fire or fires for just a second but just wont completely start. Is the system supposed to be primed and if so how?. I suspect a fuel problem but I dont know how to check pressure or check to see if fuel is getting to the engine. What to do next?
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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Getting the Banana ready for it's smog test appt at the shop last night (it WAS today) Check engine light had popped on and it had been starting to sputter and surge at the idle occasionally for the last few days so I took a look at the MAF and saw dirty wires. Aha I can fix that, a couple squirts of MAF cleaner, plug it back in and voila! No more light, the Banana ran down the road around the block, over the hill and through the dale like a champ. I shut her down and call it a night.
This morning, hop in and fire the Banana up like usual and all I get is a nice peppy crank over. The Banana has had a bunch (pun intended) of new parts throw at her recently... new battery, starter solenoid, plugs and fuel pump relay and fuel filter. All within the last couple of months.
Out of complete disbelief, I ground on the ignition for a little while and she finally kicked over and sputtered to life. I let her idle a couple of minutes and things seemed fine so off we go. I make it about a block before the Banana starts hiccuping and bucking like something possessed and dies.... kaput.
The Banana has a 3.0, manual transmission and at least half a tank of fuel. Long story short and a tow truck ride home again, half a day trying unsuccessfully to pull a code, any code.... nothing. She will half-heartedly cough and spastically run with ether shots and near as I can tell I'm not getting fuel to the fuel rail relief port. I'm really hoping there is some way to diagnose a faulty fuel pump without having to drop the tank and fish the damn thing out.
I'm not hearing it run when the ignition is turned on but then again I don't think I've ever heard it run. Any other things to try before I replace the pump itself???
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I have a 2005 Ranger 4x4 4.0 automatic with an intermittent no crank, no start issue, So the problem has been getting worse over time This time when it wont start, all of the lights work, the radio, the fan, etc. They are all bright and functioning.
The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.
Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.
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I have 2000 Ranger 4.0L 4wd, 5sp ...
Just in the last month or so as out temps have been dropping off I've been having troubles getting her started. It happens both when the engine is cold, ie first start of the day, and after starting when warm. It did it a couple times last spring, but then all summer and fall I didn't have any problems (warm outside air temps) but, now its happening again. I'd say any time the Outside air temp is 40F or less, I am worried it won't start. IF i get her to start, everything else is just fine and she runs like a top. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far.
When I crank I will get a couple cylinders to fire for a second or two then it falters out behaving like fuel starvation. Then I crank again right away and nothing fires... just cranking over and over. If i wait a minute and crank again same symptoms or it will fire right up. Baffling!
I thought Idle Air Control valve and sticking fuel pump relay, so I threw new parts on, but no fix.
About 75% of the time if I turn the key on, hear the fuel pump running, turn key off and on, hear the pump again x3 and then attempt the start it is successful.
Unfortunately, I don't have a code reader, or fuel pressure test equipment. The check engine light is NOT ever on. DO I HAVE A FALTERING FUEL PUMP??? I've heard thats tough to change out.
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2001 Ranger 3L v6 auto, 186k miles. Never had a problem. One day last month I park it at home. 10 minutes later I need to make a quick trip . Get in, turn key, absolutely nothing happens. Replaced the battery, starter/solenoid, and ignition switch (not the key cylinder lock, but the white box inside the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel...has lots of wires going into and out of it,...turning the key slides a little metal pin inside it up and down). All fuses and relays are good, neutral safety switch is good. Key lock cylinder is mechanically working properly. Engine is not headlights, interior lights, wipers, radio, etc all work fine. Theft light is not blinking rapidly. Headlights do not dim when ignition key is turned. Where do I go from here?
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1999 mazda B4000 4WD 178000 miles 5 speed manual, I've been having a crank no start problem but after a few tries it would start, a week or so ago it was really cold (23) it wouldn't start so I opened the air box and shot it with starting fluid it took about 5 long sprays but it started.
It ran up op 3200 rpms and won't go back down, took it to my shade tree mech. he hooked it up to the diagnose thing it showed no codes, he poured water over the motor it different places and toward the back it idled down for a second so he says "blown intake gasket' so we replace upper and lower and sure enough we could see where there was a bad spot on the upper and a cleaner spot on the port.
That was not the problem it still idles at 3200, I mean wide open screaming, could the starting fluid have done something? Now he says "blown head gasket" I never had any idle problems before matter a fact besides the hard starting problem that started it was running just fine, what happened?
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i have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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My mazda b 3000 shut off while at a red light i t turned over initially 3-4 times now nothing. changed EGR, ECM, CRANKSHAFT AND CAM SHAFT SENSOR three weeks ago. brand new battery, took alternator in and it was bad so i replaced. theft light is blinking rapidly?
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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I have a 1988 ford ranger and my headlights won't turn on all my fuses are fine but no headlights! All the other lights work fine blinkers, parking, brake ,and tail lights! What do I need to look for????
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My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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It's an 88 2.9 and sounds like a little diesel! The fellow I purchased it from said the valves need tightened, I thought perhaps a timing chain, but figured valves would be an easier place to start. Yet, I'm not sure where to begin? Or how tight the valves need to be, are there torque specks?
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I have an 88 ranger with the 2.9l. The headlights work and the markers do to. The brights don't though. and also none of the turn signals work, the brake lights work though but i don't think the reverse do, I can't see them. Do the turn signals and brights share a fuse on there own? How to diagnose it or what it may be?
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