Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 4X4 SXT - 4 Lo Won't Engage
Jul 5, 2014
97 automatic 4x4 SXT 4.0L. 4Hi will engage, but when I shift to neutral, press foot on brake, and shift to 4lo, nothing happens. No light, no sound. Occasionally it will make a sound, and even more rarely will light up, but it does not feel like 4Lo is engaged even when indication says it is. I pulled the shift motor and replaced, as well as verified that the transfer case could be shifted to 4 hi and lo by using an adjustable wrench. I have not put truck on stands yet, but I'm pretty sure 4 hi is truly engaging. I did attempt to engage with shift motor connected electrically but not mechanically, and it shifted. What is keeping 4 Lo from shifting? If it's a vacuum issue, wouldn't 4 hi not shift? I did check the vacuum lines and the vacuum reservoir and they seemed to be okay.
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I drive a 1999 ford ranger and can't figure out why my 4x4 won't engage. I have vacuum all the way down to the hubs and when I turn the switch it sounds like the transfer switch is engaging but the 4x4 still doesn't engage. What do you all think could be the issue? I thought about just putting a set of the manual locking hubs on it and just be done with it.
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I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4. My 4wd does not engage when I turn the switch to 4wd lo or 4wd hi. The lights on the dash flash on and off. I disconnected the battery and now the lights are clear. But if I try again to engage it, the lights return. I feel I have a vacuum issue but would like to know more about locking hubs. If I convert them over, how do I know that my system will work? There has to be something else that changes from 4wd lo to 4wd hi. How do I check to see if this is working properly.
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I bought a 99 ranger few months ago cant the 4x4 has not worked in the truck for about 4 years. Bought it off my dad. He hasn't figured it out the t case locks in the drive shaft spins but hubs will not lock in. Has new hubs in it and still not working. Trying to get it fixed so I can park the diesel for the winter and run the ranger.
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1987 ford ranger loaned it out and they said the hub spins on the driver side but the tire won't engage so it has no 4 wheel drive. Soon as I get it back hopefully today will know more.
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I bought a 2000 Ranger 4x4 3.0L auto today from the neighbor guy sight unseen with a "bad tranny" for $400. I'm very unfamiliar with the Ranger family, but long story short:
When moving the shift lever, the trans doesn't engage. It needs to be engaged from underneath. Do the cables tend to stretch, or break? I can't find any adjustment on it anywhere.
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So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
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Went to work one day and went to put my truck in park and it went as far as reverse. It has alot of play in the shifter. I have had a couple of people look at it and said that they would not touch it because of the air bag. I am not afraid to work on it myself if I just knew what to do. I am a single mom and on a budget, I would rather do it myself.
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I have a 1997 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L 2WD. The check engine light just turned on with a code of p0133. I know that this is something with the bank 1 sensor 1. I tried doing some research and I think that it is on the passenger side before the cat converter. Now, I don't know what to do from there. How do I go about fixing this? What part do I need? How do I fix it?
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I have a '97 Ford Ranger with an automatic transmission that wouldn't shift out of park last night. A friend opened the hood and jiggled the steering column some, and finally it shifted. We checked the transmission fluid and it is full, a dark brown color. What the problem might be?
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Besides being spark plugs and wires and/or a bad coil pack, what other things could make it so i have misfires on cylinders 4 and 6? going to replace the plugs and wires later today when they get to my house but i just want to know what other things i could be so I can evaluate the potential repair cost and should the wires for cylinders 4,5, and 6 be under or over the intake manifold? I bought my truck used and they are currently under the manifold i think it would make more sense to have them over personally.
I have a 1997 Ranger 4WD with the 6 cylinder 4.0L engine. I can't remember the codes that it tripped at the moment but i think one might have been the 304 code not sure though.
I tripped the 300,304, and 306 code but don't know about any others i remembered what codes i tripped the other day when i had it scanned
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My son's 97 2WD Ranger with 2.3L, 5 speed, no a/c, basic XLT standard cab.
I was using his truck because my 93 Ranger was getting a new starter on it. I drove to work with no problems, then after work, it started just fine and drove a few hundred feet to a stop sign where it promptly died. I was able to start it again with some effort and drove to the next stop sign maybe a quarter mile away. Truck died again, but this time it would not start. Towed it home about seven miles and its in the driveway now. The previous owner had new Motorcraft platinum plugs and wires installed, new fuel filter, fuel injectors cleaned, all about 11,000 miles ago. My son has had it for about 6,000 of those miles.
It felt like it ran out of gas, but the gauge showed about 1/4 tank, and I put about 3 gallons more from a gas can into the tank with no change in being able to start it.
Here's what I've checked so far according to my Haynes manual:
Turned key and listened for fuel pump and it seems to go on just fine.
Checked fuses and they are fine.
Swapped around relays in distribution box with no change
Checked resistance at coil pack and it was about 1.7.
Checked resistance at one injector and it was about 1.7.
Checked inertia switch and it did not need a re-set.
I don't have the ability to check fuel pressure.
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i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
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1997 ford ranger 2.3l ...
I have my ABS light on steady and never goes away. This all happened when I had a friend work on my truck. Long story short, it seemed like lost the RABS diode under the hood and replaced it with a 'hacked' 7.5amp fuse. I saw this and was very disappointed.
So I first changed the speed sensor and nothing. I did the RABS code test and received 12.
My questions is whether or not that hacked fuse is causing all of this, and if it can cause long-term damage to the electrical system. I don't mind non-abs at all, but more on the long-term affects.
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I have a 97 ranger with 3.0 it runs great but once you drive it and shut it off and go to restart it it will turn over but not start it used to start once I let pressure off the fuel rail, but now is a little harder to start when it does this but it looks as thou coolant comes out of the reservoir when this happens I think it might be coolant sensor or thermostat problem causing the timing to advance until it cools but then again why was it starting when I released pressure from the fuel rail and also I don't believe my check engine light works...
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I have a 97 Ranger with 4.0 V6 with about 120,000 miles. The battery light came on today so I took it to Advance Auto to check the battery and Alternator. They said both were good. I checked the fuses and relays and nothing was blown or out of place. Could it be a bad ground?
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My friend's 1997 4 cyl ranger died and won't start. Cranks fine with no codes on OBD2. Was running fine before it died.
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I have a '97 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed, as the title says... my radio does not work. It has an original cd radio and I had installed an aux cord. After I installed it I could only get a select amount of radio stations, last week I had went out of town so I didn't drive it at all, I came back and there was what seemed to be no power to the radio at all. No display, no sound. Only the lights on the radio controls (pre-sets, volume, seek, etc.) I have checked the fuses, pulled the radio and checked everything from behind and still nothing. Could the radio its self be bad? What else should I check?
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I've been fighting some issues with the truck and decided to do a compression test to decide if I want to try to keep 'Old Yeller' alive or not. I'm all for working on it until I have to dig into the lower end of the motor. I rented a compression tool and the results were a little shocking. I did this test with a slightly warm motor, fuel pump relay pulled, all spark plugs pulled and throttle @ 100 %. Motor turned over 10 times for each cylinder. I even moved all the rubber o-rings on the tool up on the threads to make sure I was getting a good seal.
Cyl 1 - 40
Cyl 2 - 0
Cyl 3 - 0
Cyl 4 - 80
Cyl 5 - 0
Cyl 6 - 60
Needless to say I didn't even bother doing this wet. My only real question is can this be close to accurate. I drive the truck daily. 160k mi on it.
I'm fighting the dreadful P0171 and P0174 codes and after a couple cycles I will get misfire codes. Its low on power (hard to keep @ 70MPH with some wind) and gets 10MPG right now. However it starts and runs and stays consistent (even though it rumbles like it has a nice cam in it).
Is it time to put Old Yeller down ? Are these compression results even remotely accurate ?
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1997 2.3 Ranger w/ 160,000 mi. Every few months it won't start, sometimes after just having been running fine. Symptoms:
-the dash lights will be dim or off completely
-the chime will be softer than normal
-the headlights will not work, or be dim
-the starter will sometimes briefly click, sometimes crank once, sometimes do nothing
-the emergency flashers will sometimes click much faster than normal
-if during one of these "episodes" it does start, the battery light will sometimes flutter on and off, and the meter will flutter a little higher than normal. The next time I stop it, it typically will have the same problem.
-it will typically start if i get it jumped
My battery, starter, plugs and wires are all fairly new. On occasion, when it is having this problem, and I am trying like crazy to start it, if when I turn the headlights on and they are no longer dim, it starts right up and runs fine.
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