Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Truck Will Rev Up And Down From 500 - 1000 RPM When Rolling In Drive
Dec 8, 2005
I have a 97 Ranger 4x4, 4.0L, A4LD, 68k mi. with P0171 and P0174 codes, lean fuel mixture banks 1 and 2. The truck will rev up and down from 500-1000 RPM when Im rolling in Drive. When I accelerate, its fine, but when I let off the gas and roll it starts revving again causing the truck to shake. I replaced plugs and wires before the codes (1-2 months ago). After the codes came I replaced the fuel filler neck (not because of the codes), cleaned the air filter, cleaned MAF, changed fuel filter, and checked fuel pressure which was at 29psi so I replaced the fuel pump. Is there any common causes for this? Cures?
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Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
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I have a 1999 ranger 3.0 4x4 automatic the truck has a delay when put into drive sometimes it slips at take off unless I force it to downshift and stay in first and from second to third gear it shifts very hard at around 3500 rpm would an oil and filter change. I do not have the cash for a new trans and I can't afford a new truck. I love my little ranger...
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I have a 1988 FORD Ranger with the 2.9 liter engine with the four speed automatic overdrive transmission. Several days ago the transmission went out. The truck will not pull in reverse, overdrive, drive, second or first. Usually most vehicles will usually have at least the reverse, A first or second when the drive and overdrive stops working altogether. What the problem could be?
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I have a 97 ranger 2wd 4.0 with 5R55E. Drives fine in 1st and second. Slips in drive and rev.
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I have a 97 Ranger, v6 4.0L, 2wd, 5spd. It has been my daily driver since 1999. I was driving to work today and when I pulled into the parking spot, I turned the truck off, and I thought it was odd that the locks didn't pop up when I shut the truck off.
I then realized that I had completely lost all electrical power. Tried to turn the truck on and nothing. No click. No dome light, no horn, no nothing.
My battery reads 12.5 volts and the connections are all clean on the battery. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. What else should I check? This may be the first time this truck has ever stranded me before.
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I have a problem with my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab's passenger window. It seems like it has a loose connection, but I am not sure what the exact problem is. When I try to move the passenger window from the driver side control panel, nothing happens. The driver side window works fine. On the passenger side control panel, I can hear the motor trying to move the window when I try to put it up (the window is already up).
When I try to put it down, I hear nothing unless I push the button repeatedly - anywhere from 3 to 20 times. When the window is partially down, moving up always works, but I have to keep trying to push the button to make it go down. I have tried pushing down on the window while I press the down button and spraying white lithium grease in the window tracks while the window was down, as well as pulling part of the seal away from the window while I tried to make it go down.
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My emergency brake works fine when I am parked nose down; it prevents my truck from rolling forward. When I'm parked nose up, the e brake doesn't stop the truck from rolling backwards. 2.3L 1993 ford ranger manual trans.
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I have a 87 ranger with a 2.9 and recently it started to act up when i start after its been sitting for a couple hours it has a rough rolling idle and will stall out and a lot of white smoke out the tail pipe and some times a tiny bit of black smoke when revved high....after a about 10 mins of feathering the gas it will even out and runs no problem.... oh and quite a bit of moister comes the tail pipe....and this issue just occurred over night every time before never had an issue like this...
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My truck jumps or runs roughly... I don't know how to describe it. It's like if someone dumped the clutch. It's a manual, it does it through all gears, so I don't think it's the transmission. I was thinking it might be the fuel pump, but I don't know how to diagnose it. I've got an 83 with the cologne v6. I think it's just got the engine driven fuel pump, no electric, but I'm not sure. Either way, I think it could either be the fuel pump or maybe a vacuum leak.
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I purchased a 1990 Ranger 4x4 with a v6 from auction. Took it to local shop to have them check it for me. Found out that it has a 3.0 in it and mechanic believes it is from a taurus. Truck actually runs extremely well. Has a few codes due to the ECM is for an automatic trans. Now the problem. I was on the highway-in 5th gear. Terrible noise the nothing. When I got it pulled over. The drive shaft was hanging from the rear end. It had been twisted like a straw. The transmission side had the yoke only, and the tail housing was cracked. It rolls and the drive shaft at the rear end turns. I figured the trans locked up. I don't know what trans to look for---is a 90 2.9 5 speed the same on a 3.0 ??
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My gf's dad said I could have his 07 Ranger 4.0 2wd with 230K on the clock if I fix the tranny 5R55E. One day he was driving home and all of a sudden had no drive. The tranny will run thru drive, neutral and reverse, but has no drive to it. Engine revs with nothing to show.
Tranny fluid was very dark and pan had nothing but the usual "metal flour" in it. I stopped there, did not pull the filter or anything else.
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I have a 98 XLT 4.0, auto trans with 109K miles and when it's really hot outside and it's been driven when I start back up and put it into drive it sometimes takes a while to go into gear. A friend says the transmission fluid doesn't look too good and it smells. Obviously I have a transmission problem but my question is would changing the fluid do any good at all? Since the tranny is bad what harm could it do? The fluid was never changed previously.
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I recently replaced the oil seal on the front differential where the front drive shaft connects to the diff. I believe it is called the pinion oil seal. I had to remove the drive shaft to do the job. Got the oil seal in place and then slipped the u-joint yoke on and hand threaded the retainer nut on to get it started. I did mark the relative position of the drive shaft to the front yoke and the rear yoke. I had previously noted that the retaining nut, before I took it off had about 2.5 threads showing. I had to remove it with an impact wrench.
So...I used the impact wrench to put it back on with about the same number of threads showing. I then reinstalled the little short fronmt drive shaft...the one that comes out of the transfer case. I got the front of it on to the pinion output on the front diff...and then had to reattach it to the transfer case end which, by the way an interesting affair with a sort of metal cone that is attached by 6 8mm fine threaded bolts about 2.5 or 3 inches long. Got all that done with much grunting an groaning - I'm laying on the ground - SO the oil, leak is fixed but now ...
There is a vibration at around 40 mph and higher. like something is out of balance. did i damage the front diff pinion bearing by using an impact wrench? this vibration occurs in 2 wheel drive. as i understand it the front drive shaft doesn't even turn when in 2 wheel drive. my question is does the front diff gears spin when in 2 wheel drive? perhaps the u-joint is bad on the front drive shaft? just a bit baffled. when the speed drops to below 40mph the vibration goes away...
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I bought a 99 ranger few months ago cant the 4x4 has not worked in the truck for about 4 years. Bought it off my dad. He hasn't figured it out the t case locks in the drive shaft spins but hubs will not lock in. Has new hubs in it and still not working. Trying to get it fixed so I can park the diesel for the winter and run the ranger.
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My truck rattles when going up hills. The higher the rpm,the more it rattles. It sounds like a heat shield shaking. Also, when I accelearate on a flat road, I hear this very light knocking sound.
Motor has 190 000 km and is due for an oil change. Spark plugs and plug wires have been replaced. Engine sounds good when I rev it. No abnormal sounds. So, what would be my issue? Carbon build up?
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1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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I have a 2000 4wd Ranger with rear anti-lock brakes. The ABS light comes on every time I start and drive less than 100yds. It stays on until you shut the truck off. I found the test plug, and followed procedures to get the codes, but the ABS light won't flash at all. I checked fluid level and fuses. I replaced the rear sensor about a year ago, when that went I lost speedometer and OD off light stayed on. I wouldn't rule the sensor out, but I'd like to get codes. To get codes I grounded the Black/Orange wire with the key in Run position.
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Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
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My '02 4x2 has developed this half scrape half squeak noise in drive. 140k, 55RE trans, all original drivetrain. It sounds like someone wrapped a wire coat hanger to the driveshaft. (No, I looked). It seems to be in sync with the speed of the shaft or wheels. U-joint maybe? If I have to take it to a garage I'd like to have some clue what to tell them to look for.
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