Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 4x2 2.5L Auto - Whistling Noise Coming From Rear Only Sometimes
Feb 26, 2013
My Ranger has 296,000 miles on it. Most everything has been replaced except the u-joints. It's a 2wd 2.5L with an automatic. The motor was replaced at 228,000 with a used motor with 52,000 miles. The transmission has about 60,000 miles on it. All the bearings in the rear end were replaced about 20,000 miles ago. It has the most annoying whistling noise coming from the rear only sometimes. I don't know if it's the brakes being misadjusted or a bearing with a burr in it. It happens at random times but it's such a high pitched whistling you know everyone on the road can hear it too. There is also a driveline vibration, very minor though when over 60. However, I've had the drums checked and even had the wheels balanced many times. My friend said the ujoint grease could be dried up, but the whistling noise only happens at random, the virbation is anytime you're at highway speeds. It's not a violent vibration just enough to tell that it's not a brand new truck anymore. What it could be?
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I have a 1998 ranger 2.5L engine. I took it to a Ford garage and they told me I have a rod knock..........I took it also to a good mechanic and he said the sound is coming from the lifters.
There is 172000 miles on motor and the noise started at 131000, and is getting worse. Should I drive it till it blows, or is there a way to tell what the problem is?
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I've been through this same scenario quite a few times before but I cannot narrow it down to the exact problem. I've got this 1998 Ranger that's maintained well, tune-ups, oil changes, and everything else maintenance wise. The past few months randomly driving anywhere from 200-300 miles every once and awhile it would hesitate taking off from a stop or accelerating after letting off the gas. It would throw up a P0171 code so I thought the fuel pump was bad. So I replaced with a new fuel pump assembly. That worked, fuel pressure is now within specs. 65-69psi. Still every 200-300 miles it would throw up a P0171 code, then a few weeks ago it kept coming up more frequently.
I found out it was a broken vacuum hose from the purge valve to the intake manifold tube so I replaced it. Now it doesn't come on anymore. But before I noticed that hose I assumed the mass air flow sensor was bad so I cleaned it with CRC Mass Air Flow cleaner. Since that time it's gotten worse and now stumbles and hesitates every time you stop and takeoff. Sometimes it even chokes the motor out with the a/c on and you come to a stop. I knew the ignition coil also causes the same issues so I checked them. The front coil pack had a burned electrode leading to number 4 cylinder intake side. I replaced the coil cleaned that end of the wire and it still is stumbling and hesitating. I tried the trick of unplugging the mass air flow sensor and driving to see if it was better. No change at all.
After I replaced the coil a few minutes ago I test drove it and stopped and then turned a corner and gave it full throttle with a/c on and it actually shut off. But still there is no check engine light and no codes present. What's going on? I looked at the back coil and didn't see any corroded terminals. It started happening all the time upon takeoff right after I cleaned the mass air flow. But when I unplugged the sensor and drove it around nothing changed at all. Is there something else to check? I had the timing belt changed last week and had the shop check to see if timing is good and they said it was right on. It still drive good you just have to tap the gas twice when you take off to overcome the stumbling.
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Did I get bent over? had a banging noise coming from the rear and took it to my regular shop, they told me the leaf spring shackle and hanger brackets were almost rusted thru and one more pothole and I'd be all over the road, so they ground out the rivets and replaced said brackets. I don't have the equipment to do that kind of work but I still feel it was a little high.
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It is as an electronic whistle/humming. The sound is coming from the rear of the van, and no, not when it's moving, even though it still does it when moving. The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump. Because It's loudest just before the rear tires, not after them. My fiancee has heard it twice now, when she first heard it, I didn't, but this last time when I heard it, I also noticed that the gas gauge was reading just below 1/8 of a tank.
Would like to know if it's the fuel pump or something else I'm no thinking of. And if it means I have to replace the pump.
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I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
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I just had new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, drums, leaf springs, rear shocks, and shackles put on. The brakes were done about 4 or 5 months ago and the springs and shocks just a few weeks ago. The rear brakes were locking up after I had the work done, but I thought they were just too tight. I loosened them a little but it only worked a little.
Now it's starting to lock up pretty much every time I apply the brakes. The ABS kicks on and the rear tires skid. I took the drums off today and didn't see any leakage or anything out of the ordinary. They weren't too tight and I readjusted them but they weren't out of adjustment much if at all. I looked at the Ford symptom chart and it says for brakes that lock up easily there could be sticking or binding components. I didn't see any. Then it says check parking brake components.
Now I see they didn't hook up the equalizer bracket that goes to the front leaf spring hanger when they changed my springs so I assume thats why my parking brake pedal goes to the floor. Then it says check the shoes and linings, which are fine. The last thing it says is to check the fluid control valve. Which I'm guessing is the prop valve.
The only way to check it according to Ford is swap it for a known working valve. One person told me that it could actually be a bad brake booster check valve. Is that possible? Anything else that's common? It's got 272,000 miles on the frame but everything's been changed that typically wears out at least once.
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MY 2001 Edge 4.0 5 speed auto has a noise while accelerating. It happens only when truck is first run and disappears after warming up after a few miles. It just turned 1500 miles. Can't figure out if it is from trans or possibly a speedo cable. It goes to the dealer next week.
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I've been having this problem for about 2 weeks now, and I am trying to figure it out. I know the video is only 5 seconds but at least you can hear the sound, it only happens in first gear, on take off, about 2-5 seconds after the take off, and the sound is coming from the rear axle area. I cant figure out if its diff or brake related.
Ford ranger Rear end noise - YouTube ....
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Ok I have a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L automatic 4X4 with A/C my problem is i just had the timing chain,water pump, thermostat, upper and lower hoses, and front crank seal replaced. I got it back and right away noticed a thumping noise at idle only... My gauge was always steady at the same spot it had always been. but the thumping was loud when idling. Now the sound seems to have moved farther towards the engine instead of the dash and tonight when i popped the hood noticed the top hose was collapsed and i could feel no pressure. the thumping noise seems to be coming from the area of the thermostat. I have no oil in the coolant and no coolant in my oil! I tried to get the air bubble or pocket out if thats what is the problem by running the engine till hot with the radiator cap off but it made just a huge mess. it did seem to push a huge air pocket out but still does the loud thumping. This all started the day i got it back from the mechanic so I am assuming its an air pocket. I planned on changing the thermostat tomorrow.
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I get this intermittent whistling noise coming from the rear drivers side. Sounds like a coffee pot whistling on a stove. After I drive about ten or twelve miles it goes away and diminishes into a hissing noise. Is it possible the fuel pump is failing? I have a 2005 trailblazer with 105000 miles.
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Got a tire rotation a two weeks ago on my new 2013 Kia Forte (purchased in August 2012).Now, I have a very high pitched whistling noise coming from the rear tire area. The sound happens at all speeds. The sound is the worse at very slow speeds; the sound is also very bad at very slow speeds when I touch the brakes and turn the wheel.I looked at back tires from outside the car (not underneath the car). The mechanical set-up of back tires look very different than that of the front tires. The back tires have metal parts touching each other while the front tires do not.
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1998 ranger 5spd... I have 117k miles on this little ranger and I recently took it on a little trip and since that trip it has a ticking noise under the hood as if the lifters were sticking. I believe it has hydrolic lifters in it. I put some sea foam in it 200 miles ago and changed the oil about 50 miles ago. I used Valvoline full synthetic and it seems like it has lessened the tick and it drives a lot smoother, in my opinion. Is there any thing else I can do to relieve that ticking? It is more noticeable when the engine first starts and is louder if i push down harder on the gas. It is not preset if i do not put that much pressure on the gas.
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A few weeks back just after buying a new front hub assembly (so I know I have Live Axle 4x4 and 4WABS), a dude on an excavator pulled out in front of me on a blind curve on an interstate exit ramp. Almost got him, then almost got got by the car behind. The hard stop caused a rear line to blow.
When I got home, fluid was still coming out when I pushed the pedal, so the first thing I did was top off the reservoir. I was surprised it was not empty.
I finally got lines that would fit, and replaced both sides. Fast forward a few weeks and I had time to bleed the system. I hooked my vacuum pump to the right-rear wheel cylinder port, opened it and began to pump. Pump, pump, pump, and still no fluid. Tried a few times. Left the pump on, opened the port, (charged the battery), started the truck and pumped the pedal - no fluid. Also, the fluid level did not change in the master.
Master cylinder bleed? Do I need to have the ABS motor bled?
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1988 Ranger, 2.9, 5 speed, 2wd, 7.5, 3.42:1, 190K or 290K on the odo.
I've been hearing this rattling, sometimes kind of a metallic ping, from the rear the last week. I thought it was probably the universal joints, didn't do it often, only under load between 1500-1900RPM roughly in second, third and fourth. I planned on working on it this weekend.
Today it started really making noise, sounds like valves rattling as though the timing was too high but it was coming from the rear end. It was making it all the way through the gears into fifth, even when cruising. Once it cooled down a bit it nearly went away.
I'm going to get started on it as soon as I can, but I can't get it in the shop to pull the differential cover and take a look right now. Dad's shop is full of crap, I live on top of a hill, not many safe places to get one up in the air properly. What is causing that sound?
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I'm hearing a sort of faint rotating squeaking noise coming from the front of the engine; I can only assume that it's something with the belts. Nothing too pronounce cause I just notice it yesterday, anyway I was hoping I get another take on what this might be before I take it to the mechanic tomorrow.
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2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
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Looking for a good write to change the front rotor (BIG CRACKS IN IT) on a 97 auto locking 4X4 hubs? Any special tools etc...?
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My 1998 Explorer is making a terrible banging noise when driving. It appears to come from the rear. It only occurs when i step on the gas, gives a bang and the car shudders lightly. The bang can be gone for 10 - 30 seconds, and all of a sudden appear again. If I step hard on the gas, it will make a bang! bang! bang! noise.. If let my foot off the gas, it rolls quitely without any noise.
I have greased the slip yoke, inspected the U-joints, checked the rear calipers, opened the rear axle/differential plate - no metal parts or excessive wear were observed.. The transmission runs smoothly, there are no other noises apart from the bang. It is as if someone is hitting the car with a hammer from underneath...
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Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
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I'm working on a truck for a friend's mother and all of the tests that I've done point to the fuel pump. However, to make sure the pump is getting voltage past the large connector block under the cab, I would like to do a pin-out test before I pull the tank (or the bed). The pump will not run/prime in KOEO test, the relay is good, as are all of the fuses and the inertia switch.
Looking for a wiring diagram handy for this purpose? I've look all over this forum and searched quite extensively and I haven't found one for this year. Since it isn't my truck, I don't feel like purchasing a manual. I'm working on a 2003 3.0 2WD Auto.
If a wiring diagram isn't available, what colors are the wires going to the fuel pump? That way I can at least test the ground and the positive.
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