Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Loud Thumping Noise From Dash
Dec 18, 2009
Ok I have a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L automatic 4X4 with A/C my problem is i just had the timing chain,water pump, thermostat, upper and lower hoses, and front crank seal replaced. I got it back and right away noticed a thumping noise at idle only... My gauge was always steady at the same spot it had always been. but the thumping was loud when idling. Now the sound seems to have moved farther towards the engine instead of the dash and tonight when i popped the hood noticed the top hose was collapsed and i could feel no pressure. the thumping noise seems to be coming from the area of the thermostat. I have no oil in the coolant and no coolant in my oil! I tried to get the air bubble or pocket out if thats what is the problem by running the engine till hot with the radiator cap off but it made just a huge mess. it did seem to push a huge air pocket out but still does the loud thumping. This all started the day i got it back from the mechanic so I am assuming its an air pocket. I planned on changing the thermostat tomorrow.
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Driving home from work (a 30 minute hwy cruise) I had to stop for a traffic light. As was sitting there I hear a thumping noise from under the hood, otherwise it was running the same as always. Got it home and I didn't hear it anymore, looked under the hood while idling, seen nothing, shut it off. top rad hose had a slight amount of pressure, started it and it quickly built pressure and felt a rhythmic thumping in hose and it got fricking hot quickly. I figure either a head gasket or cracked head.
I just recently did an aggressive cooling system flush using Prestone heavy duty cooling system flush (can only get this at a dealer) because the previous own neglected it, and it blew a head gasket, tons of rust inside when I did it. I'm gonna borrow a tester to check for exhaust gas in the cooling system and what did it end up being? The guy I bought it from (the previous owners mechanic) put 1 or 2 head gaskets on it.
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This is probably a dumb question but what is going on here:
YouTube.....
This is with the AC running. That wheel spin and loud click (it's a lot louder in person) is starting to annoying me. When I am sitting in traffic or at lights and I have the AC running the noise is very noticible in the cab. If the AC is off the idle settles down and the click goes away. So what causes this - AC compressor going out? It needs lube? Freon?
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I've been having this problem for about 2 weeks now, and I am trying to figure it out. I know the video is only 5 seconds but at least you can hear the sound, it only happens in first gear, on take off, about 2-5 seconds after the take off, and the sound is coming from the rear axle area. I cant figure out if its diff or brake related.
Ford ranger Rear end noise - YouTube ....
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1998 ranger 5spd... I have 117k miles on this little ranger and I recently took it on a little trip and since that trip it has a ticking noise under the hood as if the lifters were sticking. I believe it has hydrolic lifters in it. I put some sea foam in it 200 miles ago and changed the oil about 50 miles ago. I used Valvoline full synthetic and it seems like it has lessened the tick and it drives a lot smoother, in my opinion. Is there any thing else I can do to relieve that ticking? It is more noticeable when the engine first starts and is louder if i push down harder on the gas. It is not preset if i do not put that much pressure on the gas.
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I have a 1998 ranger 2.5L engine. I took it to a Ford garage and they told me I have a rod knock..........I took it also to a good mechanic and he said the sound is coming from the lifters.
There is 172000 miles on motor and the noise started at 131000, and is getting worse. Should I drive it till it blows, or is there a way to tell what the problem is?
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My Ranger has 296,000 miles on it. Most everything has been replaced except the u-joints. It's a 2wd 2.5L with an automatic. The motor was replaced at 228,000 with a used motor with 52,000 miles. The transmission has about 60,000 miles on it. All the bearings in the rear end were replaced about 20,000 miles ago. It has the most annoying whistling noise coming from the rear only sometimes. I don't know if it's the brakes being misadjusted or a bearing with a burr in it. It happens at random times but it's such a high pitched whistling you know everyone on the road can hear it too. There is also a driveline vibration, very minor though when over 60. However, I've had the drums checked and even had the wheels balanced many times. My friend said the ujoint grease could be dried up, but the whistling noise only happens at random, the virbation is anytime you're at highway speeds. It's not a violent vibration just enough to tell that it's not a brand new truck anymore. What it could be?
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I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
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'94 Ranger 4x2. Recent new brakes front and rear, installed by a garage who was also doing my clutch a few months ago. Not long after brake job, slightly detectable 'thump thump thumping' sound during braking. At first I thought possible stuck caliper/warped front rotor, but vibration was not in the steering wheel, and as sound grew increasingly louder, seems to be coming from right rear brakes.
ABS light appeared once, but after adding a small amount of brake fluid to master cylinder, has not reappeared. No other brake related idiot lights, and truck brakes quickly and straight. Pedal could possibly be firmer, however.
Took my rig back to the shop, since brakes were supposedly "guaranteed for six months". Out of business, no forwarding address or phone number!
So I decided to bleed the rear brakes. Haynes manual says bleed RABS valve first, then proceed to rear brake bleeders. Found RABS on rail frame, dust cap still on bleeder, (cap was very dusty and difficult to pop off) looks like shop never removed it or bled it! Had to remove its electrical connector to access the 7/8" bleeder nut with a box wrench.When I tried to bleed it, NOTHING came out. Neither air nor brake fluid. Moved on to rear brake bleeders. Normal. Bled 1/2 pint from each, as I topped off the master cylinder. I have not yet removed either drum to inspect.
Long story short, does the RABS valve on a '94 Ranger rear wheel only ABS need to be plugged in to be able to be bled? Do I need to have the ignition 'ON' while doing so? (I thought only '95 and up needed the Ford factory code reader to bleed four wheel only ABS valve?) And can the thing fail without setting the ABS warning light, and allow the rear brakes to still (noisily) work ?
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I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 4.0L and here recently my ac compressor has been making a loud click noise engaging even though i am not using heat or AC, so when it engages the rpms drop and almost wants to stall and it does this in about 10-15 sec. intervals, but when I am driving it acts fine. What is going on here, I recently had a vacuum leak and i found it and fixed it, and now this issue just started.
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My sons 1998 ranger is in mph. Converting on to a kmh dash. There's one at the wreckers and I was wondering is it a direct replacement or is it a computer swap also? What years would work?
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I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
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I have a 98 4x4 with 145k miles and 4.0 OHV. Symptoms are as follows;
Uses ALOT of oil. 1 quart per 230 miles. Burning bad in rear cylinders, some in middle cylinders, none in front cylinders. Screams intake or PCV issues to me, not rings or valves. Never any smoke, not even on startup. No significant leaks. MPG always 18-20mpg.
Slightly rough idle.
Miss under load below 2k rpm. Not a terrible miss, but you can feel it. Has never lit the CEL. I know the CEL is good.
Never loses coolant. No coolant in oil or vice versa. Haven't done compression test, but doesn't seem like they ever tell you much anyway.
This weekend I replaced all intake gaskets, plug wires, cleaned oil residue off and regapped plugs (they are 3 months old), injector orings, and PCV valve. Flushed and burped radiator.
It's too soon to tell on the oil consumption, but I thought the intake gaskets would have cured the rough idle and misfire. The idle IS much better, but still not perfect. But the low rpm load miss is actually worse now. Still no CEL. Could it be storing codes without lighting the CEL? Also, how do you clear codes on these, can you just disconnect battery, or do you have to clear them with a scanner?
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I have been having with my ford ranger. I bought this off my nephew bcuz he needed some money and never drove it due to it being a 5speed and he has a kid and a wife and no room. OK the issue I am having is in gear or neutral I can't get the 2.5 motor over 3000rpms in any gear at all. If you rev the engine up or r driving it when it hits between 2900-3000 rpms the motor acts as if it is going to die and looses all power until you let off the gas. I have replaced the following items on the truck. Oh by the way I have a Cam 2 hand held and there are no codes or warning lights. All new parts :
1) new fuel pump
2) fuel filter
3)new timing belt
4)new motor craft platinum plugs
5) new motor craft plug wires
6)new Mass air flow meter
7) clutch,pressure plate & throw out bearing along with new slave(that needed it replaced others since I was there)
8) exhaust tube behind motor(rotted out)
9) new idle control sensor (acts as elect. Choke)
Truck starts up real quick and idles fine, but when truck is cold the rpms @ 2500 does the same as when it is warm @ 3000 rpms. I even took it to the local ford dealer in my town. Youngstown oh @ Fred martin ford. They told me the wires should be replaced and plugs along with mass air flow valve. I called them after replacing it and told them no difference and the service manager told me to bring it in again and they will look again. Service manager told me he has never heard of this type of problem and I went to a local garage mentioned it to the lead mechanic. He said that is why he doesn't like fords they are to common in chronic problems and can't be fix without a lot of guess work. I have a Hanes manual and did everything it recommends to no avail.
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I've got 30 lbs of fuel pressure that drops to 28 if you rev it up a bit on a 1998 ranger 4.0 with a new fuel filter. Haynes manual say it should be 56-72 lbs. Bad news is fuel pressure regulator is in the tanks with the pump. Can the regulator be swapped out or is it one assembly with the fuel pump? Is there anything I should check first?
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Ok so my dad has been using my 98 while I was fixing his 92 4.0. I had the 92 perfect and then someone pulled in front of me and totaled it out. Well now I got my 98 back and it's all messed up. Check engine is on p0171. Fuel pressure test done and it's steady 40-42 psi. I remember last year I checked it was like 68-72 psi. It hasn't been a year or two since fuel pump and strainer were replaced. Filter probably 15,000 miles ago. It's currently running good sometimes it cuts off when you start it then next time it stays running. Is this another fuel pump failure? How much longer will it last on 40 psi? The fuel lines and tank have 336,000 miles, engine maybe 150,000 and injectors have about 20,000 miles on them.
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I got this 98 Ranger 2.5 that I've done a tune-up on less than 30,000 miles ago. I changed plugs, wires, and both coil packs. Timing belt, thermostat, fuel pump, fuel injectors are all recently changed too within a year or two. Fuel filter and air filter I change every 30,000 miles. The truck runs as great as a 4 Cylinder will run. It's at 344,000 miles but the engine was changed once so it probably has over 100,000 miles on it. There is just a slight miss you can hear through the tailpipe but it's not severe enough to be picked up by the Check Engine Light. In fact, even when the coils were totally gone it never put up the Check Engine Light. I can tell when a coil pack is going out on this because it's done it several times so I usually just change them with the tune-up. It's only a slight miss some people may not even notice it. I was just wondering is there any way to track down where the miss is? I tried looking under the hood in the pitch black and there's no plug arcing.
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so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
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I have a 98 Ranger SuperCab XLT 4WD 4.0 Auto. Occasionally, especially when it has been sitting for more than 3 days, it shakes for maybe 30 seconds on startup. It smooths out gradually after that, maybe 15 sec. to normal smoothness. It seems like it is firing on all cylinders and is more like something out of balance.
Never does it when sits less than 2 days. When it happens, the longer it sits the worse it shakes.
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Throwing codes ... p0136, p1131, p1151 acts like it going to just stop then will take off, at a stop light it will sound like it has a large cam in it... It is a 1998 4.0 V6 automatic tranny.
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I bought a '98. At the front passenger side of the engine, the injector rail is leaking fuel (a fair stream of it). I have done some googling, and browsing around the forums, and can't find much in the way of specific info on where to start with this.
Whatever the device at the front of the rail - Without digging too far, it seems that the leak is coming just below it.
Questions:
Am I obliged to change injectors with the rail?
What is involved with changing the rail? Removing upper intake only? At all?
What is the box shaped device at the front of the rail, passenger side? Test port? Pressure Regulator? Both?
I won't have a chance to work on this again until next weekend, but thought I'd try to do some homework beforehand.
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