Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Codes For Lean Bank 1 And 2 - Cylinder 4 Misfire
Nov 4, 2012
1998 ranger 4.0L. I ran my scanner on my truck to day and my 2 bank 1 sensors seem to be bouncing between .150 and .700 but my bank 1 sensor 2 seems to be stuck at 680-720 and not bouncing, is this normal?
I did pull a code po135 heater circuit malfunction BANK 1 SENSOR 1 ...
Also I am not sure where my fuel trims should be...
My
ST1 10.0
LT1 25.0
ST2 12.0
LT2 25.0
closed loop.
When I first got the truck I pulled codes for lean bank 1 and 2 also a cylinder #4 misfire and the bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit. I reset the codes and the heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1 popped the mil light in 5 min. So I am starting with the o2 sensors. I've not found any vacuum leaks at this point.
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Here are the codes I'm getting:
P0455 - large evap leak
P1451 - main control (evap canister)
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0174 - bank 2 lean
are these all related? Or two separate issues. I have replaced all the evap lines with new lines. I have a new egr valve, and exhaust manifolds, and what should I look at 1st
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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I am getting cylinder 2 misfire and lean fuel bank 1. change the coil and didnt fix the misfire.
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I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
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I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
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I've been having this problem since I've gotten the truck about year ago. it has very high long-term fuel trims and it seems no matter what I do I cannot get them to go down my fuel trims at idle are 39 Bank1 and 33 bank2 they go down to around 12>7 while driving what could this mean. And even weirder occasionally I get Bank 1 or bank 2 too lean codes at idle when cold starting???? 1997 Ford F150 4.6 ......
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5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
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I've got a 2003 Ranger 2.3L DOHC, 5 speed, 2WD. It has a check engine light with codes :
P0316-Engine Misfire Detected On Startup
P0704-Clutch Switch Input Circuit Fault
P2195-O2 Sensor Excess Lean Signal Bank 1-Sensor 1
P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)
The truck runs fine when coasting or accelerating but when holding a steady light throttle to maintain speed the truck starts bucking and jerking. It's doesn't feel like a misfire, more like a fuel cut out condition. When this happens and you come to a stop, you can smell that the exhaust is very rich coming out of the tailpipe. I've already replaced the upstream O2 sensor and I did a tune up about 15k ago. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I doubt if this is related, but on start up (more so on a cold start up) the A/C compressor clutch kicks in and out 3-5 times and makes a terrible racket.
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My 04 Explorer 4.0 has been giving me the bank 1&2 lean codes. It is the fully electronic throttle body not mechanical. It seems from reading that in 04 is when they switched to the electronic version. Here are some things I have done to resolve this. I created a diy smoke machine from a paint can and air. I found a leak by the egr.
I replaced the egr and gaskets, along with the metal part that goes into the throttle body. I replaced the pcv and hose(although it looked fine). I replaced my intake gaskets. I replaced the MAF sensor.
Before all of this my lt fuel trims were +25 for both bank 1 & 2. After doing all of this my trims did come down a little to Bank 1 +16 and bank 2 +23. I dont know what to check next!
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2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
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2003 F150 v6 2wd 170k ... For a year I've only had codes P0171 and P0174 (lean bank 1 and 2). I was told it wouldn't hurt anything... I think now I should have taken care of it.
Anyway 3 weeks ago my truck started running a little rough. It was sputtering and had trouble getting up to speed, sometimes also the air switches from vent to defrost until switch gears and rpms go down. It gradually got a lot worse over 10 days while part was otw. A week ago i changed MAF and cleaned the black thing it's inside of. It started running better but still not good. I pulled my small trailer 2 days ago and it got worse after dropping the trailer.
Today checked codes at AZ and lean codes are gone and have p0304 (#4 misfire) and p0316 (crank sensor problem). Is this related.? Also Right before all the trouble I changed battery and alternator. Also i read online that MAF needed 2 weeks to relearn the way I drive to get correct gas/air ratio? Is that correct?
Also I read so many different things I needed to do during installation... Some say I need to turn key to the on position after unplugging old MAF then plug new one in... turn key to on position 10 times, Rev up engine, drive it rough for the first 2 minutes... etc. Is there a correct way to do it or is it vehicle specific?
Should I start by changing spark plugs and coils? The guy i bought it from and trust said he changed spark plugs right before I bought it. Will it ruin truck if I drive it? I've read so much but everyone says so much different things on the same topic. I'd what to start with or if this is related.
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I have been getting a P0171 and a P0174 code lean bank 1 and 2 sensor 2. I have replaced all 4 censers the 171 is gone but I keep getting the P0174 and it only comes on when I am on the highway after driving around 10 miles or so i got a freeze frame of the data when it happen.
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i have a 2005 f150 4x4 5.4 3 valve. it ides good but when it is in on it splutters, and also feels like dead cylinders in passenger gear. i checked the codes the other day and i had a cylinder 5 misfire. so i cleared it and today checked again and had running lean bank one and cylinder 8 misfire, then checked one more time and had cylinder 7 misfire. I am sure it is a bad coil but how do I know which one?
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6... Okay so I bought my truck last September with 100K on it. Ran perfectly fine. No problems for for the first two months and then it started to misfire when at idle. Check Engine Light came on. Scanned and got a random multiple misfire code. I then changed the plugs and wires. Had to repair the threads for cylinder two. Did all that and it kind of but not really solved the problem. A few weeks later got another check engine light. Cylinder 3 misfire. Changed ignition coil. No better. Shortly thereafter I checked again whilst at work and read misfire on 3 and now 2. Currently replacing the intake manifold o-rings and cleaning out intake.
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This has been an issue for about 8 months now. I'm getting a misfire on cylinder 4. So far compression test, new gas filter, fuel injectors cleaned, spark plugs and wires replaced. coil pack replaced. Heater valve was leaking but was replaced.
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OK, got a check engine light today when I fired up the Ranger.
Took it down and got the codes read it have a miss fire on cylinder 5. Picked up some plugs and wires, got to get those E3's out of there, but kind of think that's really not going to fix the problem. So that probably leaves the coil pack or injectors.
So what's the consensus on the best coils to use?
Also, being an 18 wheeler for more years than I care to remember, I've learned swapping just 1 injector is never the way to go. So whats the best type of injectors to get and where the best place to get them should it come to that?
Oh, it's a 2000 3.0L Flex fuel 5 speed.
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My parents 2000 Ranger has an CEL for cylinder 4 misfire, but it will clear on its own and then start up days/weeks later, is this common? Could it be an injector?
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I have a misfire mystery going on in my girlfriends 00 ranger. What is going on, is there is an intermittent misfire on #4. I have an ultra gauge hooked to it, so most of the time when it does it, it will flash a pending code. A lot of the time, the pending code will go away, but sometimes it will set the PO304 code.
First I tried a tune up. New plugs and wires, air cleaner, cleaned out the throttle body. This cured it, for a short while. Then we were back to the pending code / setting code for #4.
When I pull the plug on #4 it is sometimes wet with gas. If you put a new plug in it runs fine for a while. In fact the last time we took a several 100 mile trip with it right after plug change, and it ran great. The pulled plugs re always in good condition with no burn, oil, chips or glazing. I have been using the standard autolites that are in advance auto's computer for that engine. No issues with the other 5 so I figure they re good enough.
The day after we came back I get the call... Honey its doing it again. Often to the point of having no power at all.
But it will clear itself usually, if not a new plug for #4 will cure it immediately.
So I thought something is killing this plug.... Or flooding it. SO I ran 2 cans of sea foam though it, put in a new plug and an new wire. It fixed it for a week then it did it again.
Ok I think... maybe the coil pack is bad either killing the plug or just not firing it at all? So since the pack has never been change in its nearly 300K life (to my knowledge, shes had the truck since about 60K) What the heck.... a new coil pack for the old thing.
I have not had the chance to clean the MAF but we are talking misfire on one cylinder, every now and then with no real conditions that set it off. More often than not its a pending code that you can even hear or feel and other times its a full blown miss that drags the truck down. Well for a short while until it clears up or I replace the plug.
3 cans of seafoam surely would have cleared a sticky injector. I realize it could be a bad wire to that injector but I have not had the time to tear the fiddle bits off to get to it to clean and test it... or just replace it.
Honestly Ive had a lot of cars and trucks, I don't remember ever having to replace an injector. Ive had bad wires to them but they misbehave ALL the time. This problem is so intermittent its freaky.
She says it does it mostly when its cold or not totally warmed up. Almost always, by the time the engine is hot it goes away.
And hot for this truck is over 185F, which I think its too cold to be running and the thermostat needs changed BUT she thinks cool=good. I keep telling her no, cool is often not good, the engine needs to be up to the operating temp.... which to me means 190-200. Her ranger runs between 170-180 all the time. I doubt thats causing the problem but still.... I think new thermo is in order.
My thinking is since it runs so cool all the time, the issue might be related to a spike in the temp over 180 ish, that gods forbid is opening a crack somewhere to suck air or lose compression.
And a compression test is my next step on #4 if/when it does it again. Now I have had cracked valves before, I don't recall them acting this way. After all sometimes the thing will go 100s of miles under different driving conditions and run fine. I don't think a cracked valve would be that nice.
Shes getting @18 MPG mixed driving, when it runs t runs like a bear. It always fires right up. There is no smoke, white or black. There is no water in the oil, no oil in the water. No audible exhaust leaks. No ticks knocks or oddball noises. For its age and miles almost 300K it runs perfectly.
Well until it has its intermittent issue with the misfire, that isnt bad enough to actually set the code.
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What would be causing my left and right bank lean codes? Truck still seems to run fine. I have also been getting number 6 misfire. all within the past week. I know Its due for a tune up but would a simple tune up fix these codes. Also besides plugs and primary fluids what else should I be changing. I don't want to be getting to involved just the main stuff.
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I figured something out on my ranger that has been bugging me for a while it was a third cly misfire so I changed the plugs and it went away for a while.the po told me he had just changed the plug wires so i didn't mess with those and it was an intermittent misfire so i changed the brain box because it was 15.00 at pull and save and it had been all updated boy did it run smooth for a while then the misfire came back. So I decided to check the 3rd cylinder plug wires and found out the one that is hard to change on the drivers side was badly rusted so i borrowed one off my windstar it was a little longer but boy does it run smoother and it doesn't die all the time and chug chug all the time now i just need to change the battery. i have already changed the clutch and the tranny twice i took one out of an 88 and it fit just fine by the way the engine is a 2.3 8 plug engine with over 230,000miles on it my next project is a timing belt and a heater core won't that be fun and yes i smell the antifreeze inside and don't like the stop leak like the last person put in.
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