Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 Truck Couldn't Get Any Speed In Gear / Code P1131 And P1151
Apr 10, 2014
I have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
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1998 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Ltr - Runs rough ever now and then and CEL giving P1151 code. Upper and lower intake gaskets have been replaced.
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Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
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I have a 2000 with a 5.4 and 166K miles. It had multiple exhaust manifold studs broken on both sides. Now that thay is fixed, I am getting the p1131 and p1151 codes. The EGR tube was also replaced at the time of the manifold fix. I checked over all the tubes and electrical connectors to rule out something simple but did not find anything out of place. The intake manifold was replaced with a new Napa one less than 5K miles ago as well.
Could the leaky exhaust manifolds over time set the fuel trim level high and now that they are fixed, the ECM is thinking it is running too rich? Can the ECM be reset to zero? There is also a ticking/rattling noise when you accelerate that seems to be coming from the fuel injectors. I listened with the stethescope and they are the only things that sound like the noise I hear. Could these all be related?
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Originally started with a p0302 code, and it cleared. CEL came back on with codes p1131 and P0401. First time with an 8 plug 4 cylinder. Truck has 263000 miles, and still original (metal) DPFE sensor. 1996 ranger 2.3L.....
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I have a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 past few months it has been throwing a p1151 code meaning it is coming up lean on the driver side. I just changed the plugs and it didn't work, neither did changing the fuel and air filters. cant find any vacuum or exhaust leaks. Replaced a bad injector along with the spark plugs and its still coming up lean.
The truck also seems to bog down at about 50-60 mph if i let off the gas and coast it will drop about 300 rpms. It has me confused and annoyed, i have true duals with glass packs could that be causing it?
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I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
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I am having a problem with my O/D light flashing and my truck shifting hard. Just started out of the blue. After reading a few other topics, I am hoping it is the VSS. Now if only I could find the dang thing. Looking for a diagram, or detailed description on where it's at?
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So Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
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I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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Today my Check Engine Light came on for the first time in years on my 1998 Ford Ranger. It has 363,000 miles on it. But the engine was changed about 150,000 miles ago. It's a 2.5 automatic. It runs good and has no problems until today. I was leaving a shop and when I started up the truck the Check Engine Light came on. It wasn't idling bad but when I went to take off it wouldn't hardly move. I wasn't even able to keep driving. So I stopped and turned it off and restarted it. Then the Check Engine Light was gone and it ran fine. I scanned it when I got home and it a Pending code of P0446.
I've never gotten this one before. It said something was wrong with the fuel vapor vent solenoid open or shorted. I've never replaced anything on the evaporative emission system except a hose under the hood 3 or 4 years ago. I've had to change the fuel pump a couple times. I've never had any wiring issues. I've never hacked into the wiring. I've owned it since it was new. Is it likely that solenoid is failing or the vapor canister is shot? I don't need this to happen again because even if it's in what was called limp mode. there's no way I could've driven it home like that. I couldn't even pull over. I was lucky I was still in a parking lot.
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I've been having this problem for about 2 weeks now, and I am trying to figure it out. I know the video is only 5 seconds but at least you can hear the sound, it only happens in first gear, on take off, about 2-5 seconds after the take off, and the sound is coming from the rear axle area. I cant figure out if its diff or brake related.
Ford ranger Rear end noise - YouTube ....
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98 Ranger 4x4 4.0 L Supercab. Today I replaced my instrument cluster lights. When I put everything back together i noticed my gear shift indicator is off and I cant shift into 1st or 2nd. What did I screw up?
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I have a 1992 Ranger with 2.3L that suddenly lost power on freeway and stopped and couldn't restart. Towed it to Seattle, WA and need Ford Ranger 2.3L engine mechanic to double check the timing since new belt installed to make sure it was done right before cover and rest of engine reinstalled.
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I just bought a 1998 ford ranger with 228000 miles on it seems to run fine has the 2.5 4 cylinder with auto trans. Check engine light is on and code is a PO171. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and fixing to install new fuel filter. what the problem could be?
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I have a 1998 F-150 and I have a squeaking noise and I can only hear it when I am in in first gear at low speed and when I'm in reverse backing up and goes away when I press the clutch pedal. I'm thinking its either my U-Joints or Throwout bearing.
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Where to start looking to resolve this code. It is not an intermittent code. It returns after about 3 to 4 key turns. Truck idles a little rough but runs fine. I have looked up the code and causes but wondering how to deal with this directly and fixed it. I'm wanting to sell my truck for something bigger and would like to solve the issue before hand. 2003 Ford Ranger Edge...
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I am looking over a 1998 Ford Ranger. Very low miles for its age (67,000) and kept in very good shape. When I took it for a drive, I noted an issue.
- there's a whining sound in first gear and reverse that varies according to the engine RPMs. I thought it might be the power steering pump, as that whined when I turned the wheel.
However, the noise went away when I shifted to the higher gears. Been a while since I drove a stick - my Bug back in 2003, IIRC.
What I might be getting into? I really like this machine, aside from that issue, and I would like to nail the problem down ASAP...
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97 ranger 2.3l 5spd ... I keep getting p0500 code. the speedometer and odometer work fine. I understand they get they're reading from the OSS on the transmission. Now I also have the vss in the axle housing which I believe is what gives the ultimate speed reading to the pcm that way there is no need to ever adjust for axle ratio.
When using the torque app with my obd reader my OBD MPH guage does nothing until I get to about 55 then it bounces around randomly between 20 and 55 and once I hit 60 mph it reads correctly. I have tried 3 different vss sensors checked wire continuity from sensor to firewall examined the teeth/sprocket that gives the vss it's reading and it all checks out...
My questions are:
- What volts or ohms are supposed to come out of the plug end so I can test if the signal to the sensor is working
- Looking for wiring schematics for this sensor to pcm...my schematic only has the oss.
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I noticed the passenger side on/off switch for the airbag doesn't illuminate anymore on my 98 Ranger. Whether I turn the key on the switch to on or off it doesn't illuminate either way. The airbag light on the dash flashes showing, counting a code 27 and then it stays on. I also noticed the seat belts on symbol doesn't illuminate and in the owner's manual it says it should illuminate and chime. I remember it use to illuminate but I don't remember a chime.
Someone with a 98 that has a seat belt reminder light that illuminates and chimes until you fasten the seat belt? I don't know if that and the airbag code is related. But I want to fix both? I guess the simplest one to tackle first would be the seat belt light/chime. I don't see a fuse for it. I guess I need to know first is it really suppose to chime.
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