Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Whining Sound In First Gear And Reverse That Varies According To Engine RPMs
Oct 22, 2013
I am looking over a 1998 Ford Ranger. Very low miles for its age (67,000) and kept in very good shape. When I took it for a drive, I noted an issue.
- there's a whining sound in first gear and reverse that varies according to the engine RPMs. I thought it might be the power steering pump, as that whined when I turned the wheel.
However, the noise went away when I shifted to the higher gears. Been a while since I drove a stick - my Bug back in 2003, IIRC.
What I might be getting into? I really like this machine, aside from that issue, and I would like to nail the problem down ASAP...
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I have a 1998 ranger 2.5L engine. I took it to a Ford garage and they told me I have a rod knock..........I took it also to a good mechanic and he said the sound is coming from the lifters.
There is 172000 miles on motor and the noise started at 131000, and is getting worse. Should I drive it till it blows, or is there a way to tell what the problem is?
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I have been having with my ford ranger. I bought this off my nephew bcuz he needed some money and never drove it due to it being a 5speed and he has a kid and a wife and no room. OK the issue I am having is in gear or neutral I can't get the 2.5 motor over 3000rpms in any gear at all. If you rev the engine up or r driving it when it hits between 2900-3000 rpms the motor acts as if it is going to die and looses all power until you let off the gas. I have replaced the following items on the truck. Oh by the way I have a Cam 2 hand held and there are no codes or warning lights. All new parts :
1) new fuel pump
2) fuel filter
3)new timing belt
4)new motor craft platinum plugs
5) new motor craft plug wires
6)new Mass air flow meter
7) clutch,pressure plate & throw out bearing along with new slave(that needed it replaced others since I was there)
8) exhaust tube behind motor(rotted out)
9) new idle control sensor (acts as elect. Choke)
Truck starts up real quick and idles fine, but when truck is cold the rpms @ 2500 does the same as when it is warm @ 3000 rpms. I even took it to the local ford dealer in my town. Youngstown oh @ Fred martin ford. They told me the wires should be replaced and plugs along with mass air flow valve. I called them after replacing it and told them no difference and the service manager told me to bring it in again and they will look again. Service manager told me he has never heard of this type of problem and I went to a local garage mentioned it to the lead mechanic. He said that is why he doesn't like fords they are to common in chronic problems and can't be fix without a lot of guess work. I have a Hanes manual and did everything it recommends to no avail.
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I have a 98 ranger with 2.5 and 225k mostly trouble free miles. This engine has never used a drop of oil and ran good. In Dec 3 miles from work started running poorly and sounded to knock the more I asked for power. The CEL started flashing I made it to work and it idled rough but more rpms smoothed out. Took it to mechanic says he did a compression check with little or no compression on #1 & #2. #3 & #4 fine must have broke rings. Doesn't seem right to lose 2 cylinders at the same time out of the blue. Could anything else be causing these symptoms or time for a heart transplant? He hasn't opened anything up yet.
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I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
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Recently my 93 Ranger 4.0 has started to take longer to shift into 2nd gear and the rpms are way up there. shortened 2nd gear then 3rd will be fine and so on. This only happens after the engine goes completely cold. I took it to a transmission shop and they said tranny is fine...Other than this issue the truck is fine.
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The reverse gear went out in my 97 ford ranger with automatic transmission. I took the transmission out and replaced the reverse band, cleaned everything up, put it all back together and back in and filled it up with fluid. Unfortunately, between me and my assistant, we did not secure the pump correctly and sheared the ears off it. It made a racket when we started it. It would go through all gears while jacked up but when on the ground it had no power. It would barely move. And there was no fluid coming through the pump when I cracked the lines. We pulled it all out again, took it to a shop, put on a new pump and had them reassemble it all and we put it back in, making sure to do it right this time. But I still don't have the power I had before all this. It's very sluggish in all gears. There was no racket on start up this time. And when I crack the lines there is intermittent fluid loss but not a constant flow. I really don't want to pull this thing again. What am I doing wrong?
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I've been having this problem for about 2 weeks now, and I am trying to figure it out. I know the video is only 5 seconds but at least you can hear the sound, it only happens in first gear, on take off, about 2-5 seconds after the take off, and the sound is coming from the rear axle area. I cant figure out if its diff or brake related.
Ford ranger Rear end noise - YouTube ....
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98 Ranger 4x4 4.0 L Supercab. Today I replaced my instrument cluster lights. When I put everything back together i noticed my gear shift indicator is off and I cant shift into 1st or 2nd. What did I screw up?
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I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.
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I have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higer rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higher rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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Throwing codes ... p0136, p1131, p1151 acts like it going to just stop then will take off, at a stop light it will sound like it has a large cam in it... It is a 1998 4.0 V6 automatic tranny.
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I'm 1200 miles from home living in a hotel right now. Was on my way to the store this morning and I took it out of gear. When to put it back in, and it wouldn't go in. Fortunately, I was still moving, so I coasted off into a parking lot. Once I shut the engine off, it went right into gear. It moves freely through them all. As soon as I start the engine, it won't shift. It is not my clutch. I can start the engine with it in gear and the clutch in, and it won't creep at all (was sitting on level ground when I tried). At least this means I can get it places if I slip the clutch a lot. Took the inspection cover off, and all looks well in there. It hasn't been acting strange. It shifted just fine right up until this. No strange noises either until now.
Now there is a slight squeaking sound if I try to force it into gear with our without the clutch pushed in. Since I've never let a mechanic touch my baby before, and I have to now, what possible things should I be looking for to make sure they are honest? I'm thinking maybe I killed my pilot bearing? Second, while its apart, I'm going to have them replace the clutch and slave cylinder since its got 160K on it and as far as I know, the previous owners never did that. Recommendations on what clutch to get? Its been towing some lately. I don't know if that makes a difference.
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I just bought a 1998 ford ranger with 228000 miles on it seems to run fine has the 2.5 4 cylinder with auto trans. Check engine light is on and code is a PO171. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and fixing to install new fuel filter. what the problem could be?
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I’ve got a 1998 Ranger with 166,000 miles and it’s starting this weird idle at stops where the engine drops about 150 RPM’s and then fluctuates. The problem is intermittent and no pattern as to cold or warm engine. I changed the plugs and wires at 100,000 and the plugs again at 150,000, so the wires have 66,000 and the plugs 16,000. I really don't want to shotgun the plugs, wires and coil pack. I understand that vacuum might have something to do with my problem?
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I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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