Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 4.0L Manual Won't Shift As Soon As Start The Engine
Jun 7, 2015
I'm 1200 miles from home living in a hotel right now. Was on my way to the store this morning and I took it out of gear. When to put it back in, and it wouldn't go in. Fortunately, I was still moving, so I coasted off into a parking lot. Once I shut the engine off, it went right into gear. It moves freely through them all. As soon as I start the engine, it won't shift. It is not my clutch. I can start the engine with it in gear and the clutch in, and it won't creep at all (was sitting on level ground when I tried). At least this means I can get it places if I slip the clutch a lot. Took the inspection cover off, and all looks well in there. It hasn't been acting strange. It shifted just fine right up until this. No strange noises either until now.
Now there is a slight squeaking sound if I try to force it into gear with our without the clutch pushed in. Since I've never let a mechanic touch my baby before, and I have to now, what possible things should I be looking for to make sure they are honest? I'm thinking maybe I killed my pilot bearing? Second, while its apart, I'm going to have them replace the clutch and slave cylinder since its got 160K on it and as far as I know, the previous owners never did that. Recommendations on what clutch to get? Its been towing some lately. I don't know if that makes a difference.
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I'm having a little issue with shifting into first. Once in a while it simply will not go in, like you're pushing the shifter against a brick wall. If I turn off the truck and turn it back on, it works absolutely fine. I can shift into 2nd-5th no problem at all times. Is it just the shift linkage, or...? I'm not really sure where to start.
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98 Ranger 4x4 4.0 L Supercab. Today I replaced my instrument cluster lights. When I put everything back together i noticed my gear shift indicator is off and I cant shift into 1st or 2nd. What did I screw up?
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It's a few times in the past 2 weeks, the shift lever won't come out of PARK easily. Sometimes I have to wiggle the shifter for quite awhile before I can get the shifter to shift out of PARK. It also doesn't start when that happens, like everything works but it doesn't start. It's like it's locked. It finally lets go and I can start it and put it in Drive and Reverse and go on my way. But there's not set thing that I can do to make it work.
It's just luckily let me go the few times it's happened. We replaced the shift cable about 1.5-2 years ago and of course the cable is out of warranty. But even if it's the cable, it's definitely going into park because you can hear the click when you stop the truck and turn it off, and throw it into PARK. But when the shift get's stuck it won't crank or make any kind of cranking noise, it's like the battery is dead but it isn't. When it happens you can't even shift it out of PARK to try and start it in D or R.
So I was thinking something could be going on with the NSS. Is there any kind of brake pedal interlock switch on a 98 Ranger? I notice when I start it and press the brake pedal it clicks loud under the dash, which I don't remember hearing always. But maybe it always makes that click when you hit the pedal because I usually always have the radio on. What I can do if the shift gets stuck when I go to leave work? What do I need to look at to determine the problem?
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
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My 1998 ranger is a base model truck, 5-speed stick, 2.5L, 2wd, rubber and vinyl everything, manual everything, not even any A/C. Exactly what I wanted in my daily driver. This past weekend, I changed the heater core. Painfully (as if there's a non-painful way to replace a heater core in a modern vehicle). Thought I did everything right, reconnected everything that was connected to begin with, had no leftover fasteners, no plugs or wires hanging down, etc.
The only malfunction, besides the core, prior to the repair was an intermittent parking brake light when the parking brake was applied. Not a big deal. Now that the dash is put back together, none of the tail lights work, no running, brake, turn, or reverse, my interior light does not come on when the door opens, and the truck will turn over, but not start. I have reconnected the big screw-in plug on the steering column, checked a bunch of fuses, and gave a big middle finger to the plug on the backside of the light switch, and nothing seems to work.
What could cause something like this? Have any of you encountered a problem like this when changing cores or removing the dashboard? The truck is currently sitting in a parking space at my local fire station now that I've pushed it out (I'm a volunteer, so I made use of our empty 4th bay) and I'm sure my chief, while he is the blue-collar embodiment of Ned Flanders and one of the nicest people you could ever meet, does not want it staying there, parked all
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The facts: 98 rangers 4.0 4x4 177k
The issue: does the dreaded shudder start, check engine light is on saying lean bank 1 bank 2.
Fixes so far: have replaced every gasket intake base up, a lot of new sensors on the intake. All 3 of the 02 sensors new. Have not touched egr. Thoroughly inspected plenum and intake hose for cracks, no Pitts in the intake.
It's a NEBRASKA truck with zero rust. Thought maybe fuel pump might cause all these issues, however, the turn the key twice trick before starting makes no difference, and I can hear the pump turn on each time I turn the key.
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My ranger decided to start leaking fuel somewhere probably a few weeks ago. I can smell it whenever I start the motor, and sometimes while driving with the windows down. Last night, I finally looked into the problem. I took the intake air hose off. The hose, air filter, and whole intake smells like gas. I'm thinking that shouldn't be the case on a fuel injected engine. After seeing some people talk about the Fuel Pressure Regulator go bad, I pulled the vacuum line off of it, and it has a very strong gas smell. I don't see any gas coming out of it, though, even with the motor running. Everything I read says if the regulator is bad, then gas should come out of the vacuum line. Is there another check I can do on it to confirm this is the problem? Is there somewhere else I should be looking? It got two new heads right before this problem started, so its quite possible I knocked something putting it back together.
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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I have a 96 ranger 4.0L shift lever was very sloppy and one of the torq bolt fell on the floor I used loc tite and tightened them up with no problem put everything back together and now it wont start. I think I checked everything even replaced the neutral safety switch, adjusted the tranny cable, checked fuses and switched around the relays maybe an ignition switch? I am running out of stuff to troubleshoot.
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Throwing codes ... p0136, p1131, p1151 acts like it going to just stop then will take off, at a stop light it will sound like it has a large cam in it... It is a 1998 4.0 V6 automatic tranny.
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Made a trip to the hardware store yesterday. When I came out, the truck would crank just fine, but wouldn't start (98 4.0L 4x4). Tried adding gas, no luck. I had actually called a wrecker, but it eventually started after sitting for about an hour. All I did differently was hit the gas pedal a couple of times. Thinking it may be a low fuel pressure problem, I took it to autozone this morning (started it about 4 times now with no problems). Checked the fuel pressure, and it sat at a solid 65 lbs at idle. I tried holding the throttle open and it stayed at the same pressure. I forgot to try with the vacuum off.
First off, I've seen some people say 60 lbs is right, but more say it should be at about 45lbs. 45 seems right since the fuel return is on the block, not on the pump. I'm guessing the fuel damper went out, but is there any good way to check it? Also, since the damper is vacuum controlled, would a bad vacuum cause this problem? Third, could high fuel pressure cause it to not start? That's the one I'm most worried about what was wrong there.
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I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
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I just bought a 1998 ford ranger with 228000 miles on it seems to run fine has the 2.5 4 cylinder with auto trans. Check engine light is on and code is a PO171. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and fixing to install new fuel filter. what the problem could be?
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I have a 1998 ranger 2.5L engine. I took it to a Ford garage and they told me I have a rod knock..........I took it also to a good mechanic and he said the sound is coming from the lifters.
There is 172000 miles on motor and the noise started at 131000, and is getting worse. Should I drive it till it blows, or is there a way to tell what the problem is?
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I’ve got a 1998 Ranger with 166,000 miles and it’s starting this weird idle at stops where the engine drops about 150 RPM’s and then fluctuates. The problem is intermittent and no pattern as to cold or warm engine. I changed the plugs and wires at 100,000 and the plugs again at 150,000, so the wires have 66,000 and the plugs 16,000. I really don't want to shotgun the plugs, wires and coil pack. I understand that vacuum might have something to do with my problem?
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I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
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I am looking over a 1998 Ford Ranger. Very low miles for its age (67,000) and kept in very good shape. When I took it for a drive, I noted an issue.
- there's a whining sound in first gear and reverse that varies according to the engine RPMs. I thought it might be the power steering pump, as that whined when I turned the wheel.
However, the noise went away when I shifted to the higher gears. Been a while since I drove a stick - my Bug back in 2003, IIRC.
What I might be getting into? I really like this machine, aside from that issue, and I would like to nail the problem down ASAP...
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I recently bought a 1994 Ford Ranger, XLT 4 cylinder supercab. They lost the door keys when they replaced the ignition because they never locked their doors. I bought new lock cylinders with keys and set out for an adventure. Removing the metal clamp that holds the cylinder in place was actually easier than I thought. It's that darn plastic piece connecting the cylinder to the rod for the lock system that will not break or come off. Here's the best picture I could find real quick. How do you get that vile piece of 20 year old plastic off? It's in a difficult place to get tools in there, and I can't seem to get leverage with a small screwdriver anywhere. What tips and tricks do y'all have?
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A friend has a 2010 ranger with the 2.3L with the manual transmission. He said that when he drives and the rpms are up he said he gets a grinding noise it doesn't matter what gear 1rst or 5th. He think throw out bearing but no noises at all until the rpms are up there. I was think internal like shift fork but don't know.
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1996 4x4, manual trans. Wants to kick out of first, and when shifting into 3rd I have no gear. Doesnt grind, just goes in as though it were neutral.
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