Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - ABS Warning Light / Rear Brakes Locking Up
Jun 14, 2014
I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
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I just had new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, drums, leaf springs, rear shocks, and shackles put on. The brakes were done about 4 or 5 months ago and the springs and shocks just a few weeks ago. The rear brakes were locking up after I had the work done, but I thought they were just too tight. I loosened them a little but it only worked a little.
Now it's starting to lock up pretty much every time I apply the brakes. The ABS kicks on and the rear tires skid. I took the drums off today and didn't see any leakage or anything out of the ordinary. They weren't too tight and I readjusted them but they weren't out of adjustment much if at all. I looked at the Ford symptom chart and it says for brakes that lock up easily there could be sticking or binding components. I didn't see any. Then it says check parking brake components.
Now I see they didn't hook up the equalizer bracket that goes to the front leaf spring hanger when they changed my springs so I assume thats why my parking brake pedal goes to the floor. Then it says check the shoes and linings, which are fine. The last thing it says is to check the fluid control valve. Which I'm guessing is the prop valve.
The only way to check it according to Ford is swap it for a known working valve. One person told me that it could actually be a bad brake booster check valve. Is that possible? Anything else that's common? It's got 272,000 miles on the frame but everything's been changed that typically wears out at least once.
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I have a 2004 Ranger 4x4, 4.0, auto and have trouble with the back brakes howling, locking up and generally driving me nuts. I've replaced the drums, shoes, cylinders, emergency brake cables and all the hardware. We've bled all 4 numerous times, blown out the lines, looked for leaks and done all we can think of. What am I missing?
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Received the truck, 1989 Ranger XLT long bed single cab from my mom. It had been used by my younger brothers for some years, and then sat at mom's for a couple years.
It needed new front brakes badly, so replaced rotors, and pads. No unexpected problems there.
Looked at replacing the rear. Both adjuster cables were initially broken, so they obviously weren't adjusting, or braking. Replaced with a hardware kit, and shoes, and drums. Its the 9" drums, BTW.
Still not actually braking. I can tell this, when at a stop sign in the winter, with the brake pedal held down, and the backs will still spin, with the tranny in D. Even on gravel or grass, this'll happen.
One shop told me this is because the axle seals are leaking. THey've never leaked badly, and the axle fluid isn't low, by and shade of the imagination. Also, this theory falls apart, when the parking brake works just fine, right? Its just hydraulically that they don't work.
I've since replaced the wheel cylinders, the brake line from the frame to the rear axle, and the master cylinder. No change. Bleeding them doesn't seem to be a problem; i.e. no lack of or little fluid witnessed, it seem fine.
Also have bypassed the RABS valve for about a year or so, and its made no difference. Last fall I pulled the drums off, and manually adjusted them, and it didn't seem much better either.
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I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
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'92 Ranger 2WD, brake and light inspection revealed the warning light isn't coming on. I guess there is a light that would come on in the instrument cluster either when the e-brake is on, or there is a problem in the system. The shop guy says often junk just builds up and prevents it from working; guess I will remove it to clean it up first. Guess it could also be a burned out bulb in the cluster. My Haynes book isn't very good on this.
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My manual 5 speed 99' 2WD 2.5L Ranger is starting to have some small problems here and there. My main concern is when I start the vehicle sometimes, there is no idle. The vehicle will turn over and if I do not hold the gas pedal down it will die immediately after about 2 seconds.
If I hold the gas down so the RPM's stay up (Around 700 RPM's or so, something just a little above 0 to keep it from dying) after about a minute, sometimes few minutes the idle will kick in and I do not need to hold my foot on the gas pedal to keep the truck from dying.
This is about all I know from the problem besides that it does not matter how long my truck is sitting. For example, my truck was sitting for 5 days and I came home and started it up just fine, but after I drove it a few minutes later and stopped driving, when I went to drive it about an hour later the symptoms came back again.
Also, My brakes are acting a little funny. I went through when I first got the vehicle and bled the brakes, took the front rotors in to auto zone or another shop and had them fixed up, and new brake pads. Sometimes when I first start driving the brakes are extremely sensitive, to the point where I apply a little bit of pressure and my truck will start skidding. This goes away after driving for a little bit though.
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The warning light on the dash of my '96 ranger 4.0, auto with 233k miles started coming on. The only thing I have done recently was to replace my battery. Just trying to figure it out.
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I have a 98 Ranger 2wd reg cab 2.3L 5sp. Recently the airbag warning light was blinking 2-7 which indicates bad lamp in passenger airbag deactivation switch. Since the lamp has no numbers or markings on it, and my repair manual has no schematic on that part, where I can find the ma, wattage or ohm rating of the lamp? Or a part number / source for a replacement lamp?
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99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
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Last week I had to replace my tailgate handle while in the middle of moving. It was nice that it was easy, but it was a major hassle in the middle of a move! In light of having to do this, I was wondering if there are locking handles available, and if so what might you recommend?
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I'm an experienced home mech, not really worried about doing the job. Just curious if there is any pitfalls I need to know about, or a trick/tip that may make the job easier?
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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I'm having a problem with my rear drum brakes locking up when I press the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, but ignored it because it wasn't too bad. It would just release after taking my foot off the brake pedal.
1998 F-150 XLT supercab 4x4 front discs, rear drums 4.6L v8 175k miles
I cleaned my master cylinder and bled all brake lines so they have fresh fluid. Now that my brakes work way better, my rears just lock up. I put new brake cylinders on, still locking up. I went to a junkyard today and replaced the proportional check valve, brakes still locking up.
Could I maybe have did something wrong when cleaning the master cylinder? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. Anything else i should look at? bad lines maybe?
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I have a 1999 XLT and i had a bad moment yesterday. I always put the toolbox in the back side of the cabin, while doing maintenance i tried to open the rear door and I couldn't. I noticed its locked from the upper because the lower looks free. The other thing i noticed the two wires going to the handle to open it feels loose. First time happened to me and i really use that door often.
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Yesterday my 1999 Ranger 2.5L Automatic got really wierd! The check engine light came on, the overdrive light started flashing, the ABS light came on, and the transmission can't shift out of low, except manually...and to top it off the speedometer quit working! What the heck is going on???? This has got to be all connected somehow.
Up until now, I have had no problems. The truck has about 45K miles. I change the oil at 3-4,000 miles and try to take care of this as my teenage daughter drives this truck to school.
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My son has a 99 Ranger where the airbag light is flashing code 32. I had the same code on my F350 and it was the clock spring. What it could be. It is 99 Ranger with 2.5l, auto trans, 2wd, no CC.
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How can I shut off the air bag light on my 1999 ranger? I was in a minor accident and I had to replace the bumper, the light came on after the accident.
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Like the title says, my 99 ranger has the door ajar light stuck on, which in turn is making the dome light stay on. It's kinda been acting up lately, but would go out eventually. Today I washed it and had the doors open for a while. After I shut the doors and started it the light stayed on and hasn't gone off since. I pulled the negative cable tonight. And no, the doors aren't open! FWIW I cant pull the doors any tighter closed and make the light go out..
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In the past week after work the door ajar light comes on and stays on. I've checked all doors and they are not ajar. The dome light comes on when i start the engine and goes off after a few seconds, but only when i have this door ajar problem. After I get home and shut off the engine for about 30 seconds, then restart, the dome light nor the door ajar don't come on.
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My 99 b2500 4 cly shut off on the road this morning and now will not start. She'll turn over just fine but no sputtering or almost-starting. The engine light isn't on when i try to crank it. Any deductive checklist so i can start narrowing down the problem?
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