Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Power Steering Pulley Wobbles Slightly / Belt Squeaking
May 27, 2017
I purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
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In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
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07 f250 I just replaced the power steering pump. I put the serpentine belt back on and when I started my truck I now have a squeaking noise. It's driving me nuts and the more I push the pedal it gets alil louder. Now before I did the ps pump I did hear a little noise like of bearings squeaking when I put my ear to grill.... I put the old ps pump pulley on the new pump but I don't think that is it because it is pressed on. Would it be a bad idler/tension pully? Is it just a coincidence after I do ps pump that it now decides to squeak?
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The steering on our 02 Accent has been becoming more and more difficult. The belt on the AC compressor snapped off recently. Could this missing belt be causing a problem with the power steering belt? The power steering belt is now making a squeaking noise.
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I have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
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So i have a 1998 4.0 ohv ranger and have been fighting belt squeak shortly after i got it. I've replaced the belt twice and the tensioner twice when i put a GATES belt on it stopped for like month. But its still squeaking. If i put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it the squeak stops. So i need to find a way to tighten the tensioner could i somehow jam it, our hook up a turn buckle bolt to manually tighten it, or use a different ford tensioner. I really need to do something cause this squeak is just down right annoying.
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I had a friend do an alignment on my truck yesterday. Afterward, we tried to center the wheel the best we could in the shop. But when I drove it home I noticed that when going straight, the steering wheel is ever-so-slightly turned to the right. Is there and easy way to adjust this without me going back to the guys' shop and bugging him again? I know the alignment is dead nuts, but the wheel is just a tad off.
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It has developed a weird squeaky belt or pulley sound. It starts after few seconds of start up and goes away after driving few kms. It also goes away immediately for few kms. When I spray WD-40 on generator/alternator. Once in a while the sound decreases by itself and goes away only when I press the gas pedal and comes back during idling/braking. The belt is almost like a new. The car drives great without any issue.
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A C-note for those 2 pieces of nothing seems ridiculous. Considering sanding and painting instead.
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I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L and when I turn the wheels all the way too the right or all the way to the left the pulley stops spinning. Could this be that the pump is going bad or something else?
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My '02 Hyundai accent's power steering pulley makes noise when the car is turned on all the way. That noise doesn't go away until I shut off the car. It is not the same noise as a belt slipping as I have that problem before and had fixed it by tightening the alternator adjuster bolt.
When I spray a little bit of WD-40 on the P/S pulley bolt(bolt and split washer) the noise goes away. However, it comes back the next day, since I am guessing the WD-40 has been dried away. So, should I replace the pulley to fix this issue or is it something else?
Pic of Bolt (Its yellow and black in the pic) ....
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Needing to do a timing belt on the Ranger I bought, the crankshaft pulley just feels it needs to be stubborn and not come off easy. I know the front pulley is pushed on and kept in place with a pin, however I think my puller may be too large to fit where it needs to be to pull it off. I want to say I am just pulling an pushing on the same part but not sure. This is my first 4banger vehicle and I have never ran into such a deal even with working on the heavy OTR diesels.
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform. Am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
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My 2002 4.0L V6 Ranger, 4x4 overheated *slightly* this past weekend. I added some water and limped it home with a couple stops, trying not to let it get too hot. I since noticed there is oil in the coolant, so jumped to the first non mechanic's assumption the head gasket was bad. I have had (auto) tranny troubles with this truck in the past and started looking inside today and noticed some red fluid under the truck. I think the tranny fluid cools through the main radiator on this one, yes? If so, do I likely have a bad radiator, or is there another likely possibility?
The only wet areas I can find look like where the hard lines come into the right side (looking from the front) back of the rad. If we can determine that, would I need to replace the radiator, or is there any way to plug the tranny lines and run through a separate cooler? I think this also has a tranny, or oil cooler in front of the main radiator but not sure if that is correct, or what exactly that is. This is my daily driver work truck and will bring work to a stop until I can figure it out.
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump. With the new pump are a plastic washer and a small rubber o-ring but no instruction where they are supposed to go. They didn't know at auto zone and I haven't heard them mentioned on any youtube video. I found a crushed torn up washer similar to the plastic one in my catch pan. Maybe it is supposed to go in around the high pressure hose connection.
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I had suddenly developed a case of P/S high frequency SHUDDER, on my 99 Ranger, when the steering wheel was moved to either side of center. The fluid level & condition were A ok!!!!, I have kept it changed, so it's never gotten dirty. I removed about 4 oz of fluid from the P/S pump reservoir & added a like ammount of SeaFoam Trans Tune, to bring the level back up to full. In about 10 min 90% of the shudder was gone, After a 40 mile fishing trip to the lake, 99% was gone. The next day, after another 40 mile drive to the lake, fishing, it's ALL gone. So if your experiencing P/S shudder, try a SeaFoam Tans Tune treatment & a fishing trip or two, maybe it'll tune both of you up, did ME!!!! LOL BTW this is the second time the Trans Tune has worked on a P/S sticking/shudder problem, worked on my 94 Taurus two years ago, when I was experiencing a "sticking" problem with the steering wheel turned WELL off center & it's still ok. So if your having that kind of P/S problem, don't be afraid to try the Trans Tune, & a fluid flush & change, if it's dirty, like the Taurus fluid was, it just might WAKE things up.
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1992 Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L stick shift no AC no power steering. Recently the temp gauge began fluttering in the cold range from far left to just below the normal range. The defrost and heater blows only cold air. I had a professional shop radiator flush done. No change. I changed the engine thermostat out for a new one but no change. The upper radiator hose feels hot, so I assume the thermostat is working.
Questions: Where is the temp gauge sensor located on the engine? Is there another sensor or shutoff before the heater that might not be working? Where do I take things apart to check if the heater blend door is working?
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My 99 ranger has just hit 111,000 miles. I'm getting a weird sound from the front right whenever I turn the truck slightly to the right. I don't hear it if it's leaning left. Is this likely the wheel bearing? I've heard these rangers are not best known for the quality of the wheel bearings.
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My Daughters 2004 Ranger has about 195K the power steering reservoir is full it turns to the left as it should (assisted power steering) turning to right there is no power steering (manual Rack) I am thinking the issue is most likely in the steering rack..
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
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2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
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