Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 XLT - Power Window Doesn't Go Up But Will Go Down
Jan 5, 2015
I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT with a power window issue. My passenger window doesn't go up but it will go down. My headlights don't dim when I press the up/down window passenger buttons on the driver side as well as up on the passenger side. The window will go up randomly as if nothing is wrong but I don't know what the issue is. I've checked the power distribution box and fuse box but didn't find any issues. All I can tell is that it's an electrical issue.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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After taking apart my instrument panel to change the bulbs, I went to reconnect everything, but now the gear shift indicator isn't working. I can change gears fine, and everything else on the instrument panel works just fine.
The copper cable that connects to the shifter doesn't move when the shifter does. Is there a way to fix this problem, or do I need to find a replacement cable?
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I'm having some issues with my 99 ranger. It all started on my way to work one afternoon. Going down the road I started to smell some type of electrical burning smell. I looked at my instrument cluster and seen a trail of smoke come up between the steering wheel and ins cluster from under and gear selector covers. After that the O/D off light started flashing and downshifting hard. My pwr windows and dome light also quit working. Checked fuse #26 and all my fuses before going into work that afternoon, all of them were good and none blown. After shift was over that night going home I needed to use the wipers and they wouldn't work either. Also noticed then that my speedo, odometer and trip odometer not working. I've pulled my dash and steering covers off trying to find or see anything but nothing yet.
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I've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
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Mazda B2300 2.3L 1995 model... About a week ago I ran my B2300 out of gas (or so I was convinced I was out of gas) because the engine quit running. After adding gas was unable to start it back up. It turns over but doesn't start.
Here's what we did to try and fix it:
1.) Replaced Fuel Filter
2.) Check the fuel pressure, and it was at 35 psi when the key was on
3.) Replaced all 8 spark plugs (4 cylinder truck btw)
4.) Checked spark of all 8 coil pack slots and 1st and 3rd slots (exhaust side) were not sparking. After replacing coil pack we received spark but truck still didn't start.
We're speculating on the possibility of it being the PCM (ECC).
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So I just finished redoing my head gasket. Everything is hooked back up the way it was prior to the tear down. I'm getting spark, fuel, compression, timing was set correctly according to Haynes, turns over but just doesn't want to fully start up.
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Sold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
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The rear window on my '99 Supercab leaks. I thought it was the cargo light so sealed it up good with silicone but still leaking. I have heard that the back glass is bolted in on these years..... It is a solid glass (non slider) ...
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A C-note for those 2 pieces of nothing seems ridiculous. Considering sanding and painting instead.
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I have a problem with my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab's passenger window. It seems like it has a loose connection, but I am not sure what the exact problem is. When I try to move the passenger window from the driver side control panel, nothing happens. The driver side window works fine. On the passenger side control panel, I can hear the motor trying to move the window when I try to put it up (the window is already up).
When I try to put it down, I hear nothing unless I push the button repeatedly - anywhere from 3 to 20 times. When the window is partially down, moving up always works, but I have to keep trying to push the button to make it go down. I have tried pushing down on the window while I press the down button and spraying white lithium grease in the window tracks while the window was down, as well as pulling part of the seal away from the window while I tried to make it go down.
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I'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.
Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.
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Installing sliding rear window in a 2011 ranger sport? Is this a DIY project or should it be left to the pros?
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I have an 03 ranger and my driver side window will not roll down... My pass side rolls down just fine...when I push the down button all I get is a clicking noise out of what seems to be a little black box underneath the driver side dash and I can actually physically feel the clicking along with hearing it... When I push up on the button I get no noise or anything... this might be the motor...the regulator...or the actual switch?
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My Ranger has been acting funny lately. My check engine light is on. I stopped by an Autozone and the guy read the codes - I don't remember exactly what the code was but he said I just needed to use some fuel cleaner - he recommended Seafoam. Now, I assume he was just trying to sell me something. But I've tried that, Gumout and STP in the tank with no luck.
If I'm driving and come to a stop, my RPM dips down to about 600 or lower, my truck starts shaking and will eventually stall if I don't step on the gas. This only happens with a warm engine - If I start the car up and go a mile down the road, it won't happens. But if I go 10 miles down the road, it will. I assumed I had a bad throttle position sensor so I just ordered the part and replaced it but the same behavior exists.
It's been a while since I've replaced the fuel filter - it might just be that.
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I have a 2001 Ranger edge edition with extended cab, 3.0L engine, auto tranny (I believe it is a 5R55E) with 95000 miles. I am currently having some rough shift problems going from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. I had the transmission fluid exchanged and it solved the issue a little bit but it hasn't gone away. It seems to rev up a little then shift real rough. I have read hundreds of threads that talk about the Valve body gasket blowing out on these trucks so I was wondering if this description matches that fix (The OD light does not flash when this happens).
I had to have the PCM replaced right after I bought it to get the emissions to pass (codes wouldn't set) and in the process cleaned all my ABS sensors, replaced my Speed sensor on the rear differential and replaced both rotors.Are there some home diagnostics I can do to narrow down my search for the problem? Also, on a different note, my father has an 03 with the 4.0L SOHC in it and it seems to get a heck of a lot more get up and go. I understand it is a larger better engine but what I am experiencing seems very sluggish for any V6. Could they be related? Might it just be a fuel filter?
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6... Okay so I bought my truck last September with 100K on it. Ran perfectly fine. No problems for for the first two months and then it started to misfire when at idle. Check Engine Light came on. Scanned and got a random multiple misfire code. I then changed the plugs and wires. Had to repair the threads for cylinder two. Did all that and it kind of but not really solved the problem. A few weeks later got another check engine light. Cylinder 3 misfire. Changed ignition coil. No better. Shortly thereafter I checked again whilst at work and read misfire on 3 and now 2. Currently replacing the intake manifold o-rings and cleaning out intake.
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What airbag code 29 on a 2001 ranger means? I have not seen that number on any code lists. I triple checked the code and it is 29.
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I have a no start no spark situation i am having trouble diagnosing
Truck started and then died it has fuel pressure but no spark I know that there is a theft light that is flashing (slowly) when the key is off. Could this bee the problem?
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I picked up a 2001 ford ranger with a 2.3 from a friend of mine for next to nothing. it has a serious oil consumption problem. he just put a head gasket in trying to fix the problem with no luck. he thinks it has a broken oil ring. the truck only has 99xxx miles on it and i find it hard to believe that it broke a ring. I am thinking it has to be something like a bad pcv. If it is rings ill do the job but I don't want to pull the motor down just to find that all the rings are good and it was something that i looked over
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2001 Ranger 2.5L
Mom was driving the truck and tried to fill it with gas, but it only took around $6 or $7 before it cut off. After that, she tried to start the car but it would not fire. It cranks but does not start.
It was towed to a mechanic where it started fine multiple times. The mechanic then took it to a nearby station where he put $10 and the same no-start happened. I don't believe he had a problem fueling it. He's trying to determine what is causing it. Later the car will start fine and will start repeatedly.
I do not know anything else about the no-start condition, fuel pressure, spark etc. It just has happened twice now right after fueling. Plugs and wires, basic maintenance is up to date. I believe the truck has around 125K.
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