Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - 4 Wheel Drive Kick In And Out When Driving
Mar 21, 2013
My 2004 Ford Ranger has 220,000 miles, runs great, and when I bought it this summer the 4 wheel drive worked great. Starting when the weather got cold when I engage the 4 wheel drive (no lockouts electronic engagement). I will drive and it will kick in and out of 4 wheel drive when it starts to slip or I have to accelerate.
When the 4 wheel drive kicks out I will let off the gas then it will engage again on its own, but will slip out again when on ice or I start to slip. When the 4 wheel drive engages it does NOT make any strange sounds, no clunking or nothing, it engages smoothly, and disengages properly.
What it could be? a connection? Any way to fix or diagnose the problem? I have been told that it probably is not the transfer case, because if it were it would not engage or stay in 4 wheel drive at all.
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I recently replaced the oil seal on the front differential where the front drive shaft connects to the diff. I believe it is called the pinion oil seal. I had to remove the drive shaft to do the job. Got the oil seal in place and then slipped the u-joint yoke on and hand threaded the retainer nut on to get it started. I did mark the relative position of the drive shaft to the front yoke and the rear yoke. I had previously noted that the retaining nut, before I took it off had about 2.5 threads showing. I had to remove it with an impact wrench.
So...I used the impact wrench to put it back on with about the same number of threads showing. I then reinstalled the little short fronmt drive shaft...the one that comes out of the transfer case. I got the front of it on to the pinion output on the front diff...and then had to reattach it to the transfer case end which, by the way an interesting affair with a sort of metal cone that is attached by 6 8mm fine threaded bolts about 2.5 or 3 inches long. Got all that done with much grunting an groaning - I'm laying on the ground - SO the oil, leak is fixed but now ...
There is a vibration at around 40 mph and higher. like something is out of balance. did i damage the front diff pinion bearing by using an impact wrench? this vibration occurs in 2 wheel drive. as i understand it the front drive shaft doesn't even turn when in 2 wheel drive. my question is does the front diff gears spin when in 2 wheel drive? perhaps the u-joint is bad on the front drive shaft? just a bit baffled. when the speed drops to below 40mph the vibration goes away...
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It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
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I bought a 99 ranger few months ago cant the 4x4 has not worked in the truck for about 4 years. Bought it off my dad. He hasn't figured it out the t case locks in the drive shaft spins but hubs will not lock in. Has new hubs in it and still not working. Trying to get it fixed so I can park the diesel for the winter and run the ranger.
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There is a clunking sound and feel from the front end of my 2007 Ranger FX4 when in 4 wheel drive. This happens sometimes but not always on engaging or disengaging 4 wheel drive, as well as sporadically while driving along. I took it back to Ford on warranty with this problem last year, and after a few attempts I had them admit that something was wrong and they finally diagnosed that it was the front drive shaft that was binding where it leaves the transfer case, this was replaced. I have now put maybe 50km (max) on in 4 wheel drive and the problem is back, I don't think the problem was ever fixed.
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My son has a 99 ranger and the 4 wheel drive quit working. Traced it to the front hubs not getting vacuum. If I jump around the vacuum solenoid(not sure if that's what it's called), the 4 wheel drive works. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows how this is supposed to work electrically?
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Bought an 01 Ranger 4x4. The 4wd doesn't work, no clicking in kick panel, lights etc. got a used unit and plugged it in, blew my brake switch fuse (#9 on side dash) I failed to disconnect the negative ground ( oops) the original part # in the truck is
1L547H417AC
Do I need to get the exact same part number on a donor vehicle? I can get a CM for 25.00 at a local pick n pull, they have a lot or explorers there. Also will this solve my fuse issue? The truck sat for a few months and the battery died before I owned it.
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My 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
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I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
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I just bought a 5speed manual 2004 ford ranger 4x4 and when shifting usually upshiffter 1-2-3 I get a mi8ld clunk when I looked underneath I grabbed and can move the from drive shaft clockwise about 1/4 inch is this normal and if not how do I fix this?
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My 04 ranger edge steering wheel is locked the tumbler is out but the little gear box on the tumbler is broke off and still in the assembly how do I get it out to install a new tumbler?
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The problem : I bought a 2004 Ranger truck and after two days it started to hiccup, or stall or die while driving, then because the truck is manual, just start up and keep running. It was the strangest thing.
I gave it to a shop, and after checking the electrical, the ignition, the fuel system, the drive train, and ten hours of troubleshooting, they came up without an answer. So they gave me the truck back.
Answer, a few days after taking it back:
I had told the shop that it had been sitting for 6 months, May till January, but when I told a mechanic friend a bit later, he still suggested 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze in the tank, before the next tank fill. I did that, and there was some improvement.
Next, When I replaced the balding tires with new Nokian Winter tires, the tire shop, (Kal Tire), told me that the air cleaner was incredibly dirty, and asked me if I would like them to replace it. I said yes, thinking that it might just do the trick, as no one in the forums I read, had mentioned it.
Success! No hiccup or stalling and it has not died since.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 with 86,000 miles. When I am driving through town at a low acceleration or a constant speed at between 40 - 50 mph the truck starts to sputter and kick a bit. When I give it some gas the problem goes away. This gets worse when I pull my bass boat, and starts at around 30 mph. When I hook it up to a reader I get a P0316 code. Only code I get.
Also when I am driving through my neighborhood between 20 - 30 mph I get a noise that sounds like there is a plastic bag stuck under the truck. I have checked under the truck to see if the firewall is loose anywhere, but could not find anything. Other than those two issues the truck runs great. What these problems could be?
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Do a 2004 Saturn view front wheel drive transmission will fit in place of an all wheel drive...
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I purchased a 1990 Ranger 4x4 with a v6 from auction. Took it to local shop to have them check it for me. Found out that it has a 3.0 in it and mechanic believes it is from a taurus. Truck actually runs extremely well. Has a few codes due to the ECM is for an automatic trans. Now the problem. I was on the highway-in 5th gear. Terrible noise the nothing. When I got it pulled over. The drive shaft was hanging from the rear end. It had been twisted like a straw. The transmission side had the yoke only, and the tail housing was cracked. It rolls and the drive shaft at the rear end turns. I figured the trans locked up. I don't know what trans to look for---is a 90 2.9 5 speed the same on a 3.0 ??
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My gf's dad said I could have his 07 Ranger 4.0 2wd with 230K on the clock if I fix the tranny 5R55E. One day he was driving home and all of a sudden had no drive. The tranny will run thru drive, neutral and reverse, but has no drive to it. Engine revs with nothing to show.
Tranny fluid was very dark and pan had nothing but the usual "metal flour" in it. I stopped there, did not pull the filter or anything else.
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I have a 98 XLT 4.0, auto trans with 109K miles and when it's really hot outside and it's been driven when I start back up and put it into drive it sometimes takes a while to go into gear. A friend says the transmission fluid doesn't look too good and it smells. Obviously I have a transmission problem but my question is would changing the fluid do any good at all? Since the tranny is bad what harm could it do? The fluid was never changed previously.
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I have a 97 ranger 2wd 4.0 with 5R55E. Drives fine in 1st and second. Slips in drive and rev.
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I have a 2000 4wd Ranger with rear anti-lock brakes. The ABS light comes on every time I start and drive less than 100yds. It stays on until you shut the truck off. I found the test plug, and followed procedures to get the codes, but the ABS light won't flash at all. I checked fluid level and fuses. I replaced the rear sensor about a year ago, when that went I lost speedometer and OD off light stayed on. I wouldn't rule the sensor out, but I'd like to get codes. To get codes I grounded the Black/Orange wire with the key in Run position.
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Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
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My '02 4x2 has developed this half scrape half squeak noise in drive. 140k, 55RE trans, all original drivetrain. It sounds like someone wrapped a wire coat hanger to the driveshaft. (No, I looked). It seems to be in sync with the speed of the shaft or wheels. U-joint maybe? If I have to take it to a garage I'd like to have some clue what to tell them to look for.
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