I just bought a new truck. Its got some...well hacking done to it.
Previous owner did some "stuff" to the o2 sensor wiring.
Also installed a cat back new exhaust.
Should there be another O2 sensor after the final cat?
I am having a real hard problem trying to find the ideal place to mount my backup camera on my 2004 Ford Ranger... Looking for some pics of your mounting location.. Closest to the center of the bumper would be best if possible...
View 13 Replies1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 - P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I have replaced the 02 Sensor, Passenger Side (Pre-Cat), with a Motorcraft DY831...
I reset the Check Engine fault codes, and took it out for a 50 mile journey... Check Engine light is back on, with the same exact code... What next?
I understand that it may be a fuse, and/or it may be a short in the wiring... Exactly how to test the wiring from the connector at the 02 Sensor all the way back to wherever I need to test?
I really need detailed directions, like wire colors, voltage required, or ohms, or whatever is included in this process...
I was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
So here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
Just checked SES code and read P0162 I think. Stated rich fuel mixture bank 1 & bank 2 (3.0) Is this an O2 sensor or MAP issue?
View 8 RepliesProblem: engine surging/hesitation, from idle to highway speeds. It will start and run fine, just hesitates/surges when gas is applied.
Before I pulled the codes, I tried seafoam in the gas tank, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, changed fuel filter, pulled/cleaned plugs, nothing worked.
Then today I finally used a scanner and pulled codes (my CEL doesn't work) and I got 157 and 158 MAF sensor fault, high and low voltage. I am reading about 6v on the C and D terminals of the MAF, I know that is much higher than normal, but what does that tell me? Why both high and low voltage readings? Just a bad sensor, or wherever that voltage comes from, ECM?
I also pulled 189 HEGO H02S sensor fault, unable to switch/lean during part throttle. What does that mean, just a bad O2 sensor?
Last I pulled a 542, fuel pump secondary circuit fault. Does that mean the fuel pump is bad or going bad?
More importantly, what should I troubleshoot first, would any of these codes cause my problem?
Where the temp sensor for the rear view mirror is located. My truck is a 2011 Ranger with the 4.0 liter, AC, automatic and 4x4. I think it is somewhere by the headlights but not sure.
View 6 RepliesMy check engine light came on about a week ago and was unsure what the problem was. So I tested the codes and it said that the camshaft position sensor was bad. So I have tried finding this sensor but little to no luck. I was unsure if it was the 2 or 3 pin, but after looking at some pictures of the engine I'm thinking it is a 2 pin. I attached two pictures of what I think might be the sensor? But I am unsure. This was right next to the timing belt cover, which is where it said it was located. I have a 1996 Ford Ranger, 2.3L.
View 6 RepliesI removed what I could, plastic cover and thermostat housing. Looks like I have to pull the intake to get the little bugger out of there. What's the procedure to remove and replace?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder that is have emissions problems the code the tech gave me was P2195 an I bought the o2 sensor just where it is, and the auto stores didn't have a manual for the year of my truck.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Ranger 2.3 L manual with about 100000 miles. The engine was bogging down and I just found out that the MAF sensor is bad from testing it. In the process, I measured my fuel pressure to be 73 psi (manual says 60-65 psi). So I have two questions:
a.) Is there any chance of just cleaning the MAF sensor. The sensor has zero volts when running and warm (or .02 v) and barely changes when reving the throttle.
b.) Perhaps then the high fuel pressure is an unrelated issue. Is this so high that I must change the regulator as I have to change the pump as well? Might it be some other issue than the regulator which is what the Hayness manual says?
One theory I had for the high fuel pressure is that the bad MAF was leading to bogging and lean conditions and the computer was running the pump more to compensate but I think the computer might run the pump based on fuel pressure not the o2 sensor.
acts like abs sensors could be bad. but the brake pedal goes almost to the floor, after it does it's pulsating. But the abs light does not come on. I already changed brake booster, no change!
View 5 Replies2001 3.0 XLT Ranger 2wd 4 door
Okay getting ready to trade in my Truck. So I removed all the extra things I put on there while I was in college, the amp, fog-lights, and analog oil pressure sensor along with their wiring. It was pretty easy minus removing the oil pressure sending unit part.
I had to unplug the MAF to move the intake out of the way while I was repairing a loose vacuum tank. But I forgot to plug it back in when i closed everything up. I started the truck and drive it about a half mile before I was able to pull over and plug it back in. Truck ran and shifted fine after that, but the CEL came on. P0119 Coolant Temp Signal Intermittent. Guy at Autozone said it was Intake Air Temp Sensor intermittent and I could just replace the part, but they were showing a separate part even though it is built into our MAFs.
So now the CEL is on, can get it to go away. Truck is a little jerky every once in a while, like a misfire, when between 50 and 60. Before all this the CEL was off. Now after I cleaned it up and removed some of the superfluous accessories, I get a CEL. I wanted to trade it in this coming weekend without having to take a loss because of the CEL or spend more money to fix it.
I need to know what the wire colors are for a engine temperature sensor connector (2-wire) are and the correct wiring diagram to get the temperature gauge to work again
View 1 RepliesThe Problem: When I start my Ranger it dies right away, I do this about 10 times or so (worse when it is wet or has rained) then I can finally keep it running, by hitting the gas. Once I get it running it will cut out while driving as well. The idle is normal and if fires properly, I just took it in to the shop (non-dealer) and they said it fires normal and has normal fuel pressure, and the their computer returned no error codes. Their sugestion was replace the throttle position sensor. Do you all think this part could be the cause and where is the this sensor and is it hard to replace?
View 12 RepliesMy 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
so i changed the speedo cable and speed sensor in my 93 ranger, but still getting the speedometer bounce. what could be next? the speedo housing in the cluster? lubed the inner cable, made sure nothing is kinked or sharp bends. Put in a new vehicle speed sensor while i was at it just bcuz. cruise control does not hold a steady speed either but i think the 2 are not related. I'm leaning towards the cruise control servo as to why it does not hold a steady speed. Most of the time once i get to around sixty i'm basically driving by ear bcuz the speedo bounces from 60down to 55 and back up.
View 3 RepliesGot a code of p0708 on 2003 ranger flex-fuel 3.0.. Which is I believe is Transmission Range (TR) sensor. Not sure where to find that on truck...
View 1 RepliesWas fixing leaking water temp sensor today and noticed the nipple under oil fill cap didn't have hose on it. After further investigation I found open spot on air intake hose with nothing in it. Both places seem to have vacuum, what goes here. BTW it is a 1999 Ranger ext cab with 3.0 flex engine and auto trans. Will try to get picture n post also...
View 8 Replies