Last week I noticed a slight "whomping" noise in my 2010 Ranger. Not a knock, not a ping, nothing that sounds metallic. Just a rhythmic whomping sound that only shows after the engine and tranny are hot.
It only does it in Drive or Reverse; and not in Park or Neutral. The tech at the dealership (30k on the vehicle) says he thinks it is a bearing in the torque converter.
Looking at buying a new truck. We'll in a crunch actually due to my tranny going out this morning. One that I'm looking at looks great, except the obd2 port is dead. Where do I start looking? What fuse etc. It appears auto correct changed the obd2 to body and I didn't catch it...
View 8 RepliesI am installing a used tranny in the ranger. According to the salvage yard the tranny fluid and filter was removed and fluid drained from the torque converter. How am I supposed to fill the torque converter?
View 1 Replies. I'm going to FINALLY change the tranny fluid in my 95 Ranger Splash this weekend and need all the feedback I can get! It's a manual trans with miles shy of the 250,000 mark...still on the original stuff!! I'm only the 2nd owner but I bought the truck with just 45,000 miles on her so I'm willing to bet the farm that it's never been changed. It's getting harder to shift from 1st to 2nd and I'm getting a little bit of grinding from 3rd to 4th if I shift too fast. Reading all the threads everywhere online, so many different people have so many different theories from stock Mercon V to MOTOR OIL??? The motor oil thing floored me but I understand the viscosity difference between hydraulic fluid and lubricating oil. figure out what the best thing to replace the original with to prolong the life of this long running wonder vehicle!
View 5 Replies1991 Ranger 4.0L A4LD... Its a 4x4. ext cab
What else will bolt up to this 4.0L? Could i put a 4R44E/4R55E tranny? Is there a good stick that bolts up?
2003 ranger 4.0 5 speed .... Pretty new to the car/truck world only 18 and this is my first truck, I traded my focus for it and so far so good. Its my first manual but i got to tinkering and i noticed some oil build up under the front end so i got to looking and found this, wondering if its an issue, should I try to fix whatever is causing it or take it to a mechanic. Looks like between tranny and engine to me.
View 2 RepliesMy 4x4 4WD Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny that locks up after going forward a few feet. It can back up all day long but locks up going forward. some god awful noises (grinding, clunking, etc) come out of that gearbox. the 4wd is electrically operated. the ? is , can this tranny be rebuilt with a kit? I'm having great difficulty finding a replacement. Are bronco II's compatible? Engine is 2.9L V6. On disassembly I found 2 meshing gears with broken teeth.
View 5 RepliesI'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
View 6 RepliesI just received this ranger and have never heard an engine sound like this before.
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I have a 1998 ranger 2.5L engine. I took it to a Ford garage and they told me I have a rod knock..........I took it also to a good mechanic and he said the sound is coming from the lifters.
There is 172000 miles on motor and the noise started at 131000, and is getting worse. Should I drive it till it blows, or is there a way to tell what the problem is?
My 1999 Ranger with 4.0 EFI V6 engine makes a "sucking sound" occasionally. At first I thought it was a belt slipping, but now I believe it is some kind of intake air leak. If I stop the truck while the sound is on, I can open my driver's door and get to about the front of the hood before the sound stops. I have never been able to observe the engine with the "sucking sound" on. Sometimes the engine will kill when the "sucking sound" stops, if the engine is idling and in gear. If I just keep driving normally, there does not seem to be any permanent problem. What the problem is?
View 4 RepliesI am looking over a 1998 Ford Ranger. Very low miles for its age (67,000) and kept in very good shape. When I took it for a drive, I noted an issue.
- there's a whining sound in first gear and reverse that varies according to the engine RPMs. I thought it might be the power steering pump, as that whined when I turned the wheel.
However, the noise went away when I shifted to the higher gears. Been a while since I drove a stick - my Bug back in 2003, IIRC.
What I might be getting into? I really like this machine, aside from that issue, and I would like to nail the problem down ASAP...
Ok, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....
View 1 RepliesThis is my first experience with auto tranny trouble so I'm a bit out of my depth. It started a few days ago. When you put it in gear and step on the gas, the engine revs, but no forward movement. If you keep giving it gas and rev it up, it will eventually grab and off you go. This happened around town after I took it to work last week when I went out for lunch.
When I drove it home, it slipped in and out several times in town, then by the time I got out of town (maybe 5 minutes driving) it evened out and didn't slip the rest of the way home (a 45 min drive). My assumption is that once it warmed up a bit that stopped the slipping. I checked the transmission fluid when I got back from lunch, and it was a little high. I drove it again today a week later and same thing only I didn't drive it long enough for it to warm up and stop slipping like it did the other day.
Other details: The truck is a 4x4, extended cab, v6 Ford Ranger with about 175k miles on it. I've had it about 1 1/2 years and its performed great up till now.
I have a 2002 Ranger 4.0 4x4 Off-road. Over the weekend I started hearing a squeaking sound that varied with the throttle, so I guessed the u-joints needed work. I took it in (no garage or tools available atm), and the garage called me later in the day saying my driveshaft was unrepairable, that I needed a new one. I told them to hold off.
Now, a little research found me some sites claiming that Ford did indeed make some disposable driveshafts, with pinned u-joints, but in the F-series, not the Ranger.
I have an 03 Ranger 3.0 a/t. A little while back I had a clogged cat, so I took out all the cats and since then it has slowly developed a ticking sound from what sounds like the top of the heads. What that might be?
View 6 RepliesI'm getting a high toned metal tinging sound (ting ting ting ting) from the front wheel that gets faster as I increase speed.
Shop said it's tire noise, but it's a distinctive metal sound like something rotating is hitting a thin piece of metal. It's quite loud, but I eventually don't hear it over 35mph because the vehicle moving is louder.
Eventually, around 35mph it's almost a constant tinging noise because I'm going fast.
2007 Level II, 5-speed.
I have an 03' Ranger and I assume it has the BW 1354 tcase. I am getting a "clank" sound when the truck shifts from 1st to 2nd. I am thinking its the rear output yoke on the t case. I can grab it and move it up and down but there is no fluid leaking or anything. Would this be a rear bearing problem?
View 2 Replies'94 Ranger 4x2. Recent new brakes front and rear, installed by a garage who was also doing my clutch a few months ago. Not long after brake job, slightly detectable 'thump thump thumping' sound during braking. At first I thought possible stuck caliper/warped front rotor, but vibration was not in the steering wheel, and as sound grew increasingly louder, seems to be coming from right rear brakes.
ABS light appeared once, but after adding a small amount of brake fluid to master cylinder, has not reappeared. No other brake related idiot lights, and truck brakes quickly and straight. Pedal could possibly be firmer, however.
Took my rig back to the shop, since brakes were supposedly "guaranteed for six months". Out of business, no forwarding address or phone number!
So I decided to bleed the rear brakes. Haynes manual says bleed RABS valve first, then proceed to rear brake bleeders. Found RABS on rail frame, dust cap still on bleeder, (cap was very dusty and difficult to pop off) looks like shop never removed it or bled it! Had to remove its electrical connector to access the 7/8" bleeder nut with a box wrench.When I tried to bleed it, NOTHING came out. Neither air nor brake fluid. Moved on to rear brake bleeders. Normal. Bled 1/2 pint from each, as I topped off the master cylinder. I have not yet removed either drum to inspect.
Long story short, does the RABS valve on a '94 Ranger rear wheel only ABS need to be plugged in to be able to be bled? Do I need to have the ignition 'ON' while doing so? (I thought only '95 and up needed the Ford factory code reader to bleed four wheel only ABS valve?) And can the thing fail without setting the ABS warning light, and allow the rear brakes to still (noisily) work ?
I have a 98 Ranger 3.0 with a standard transmission. The truck has 240,500 miles so far. It runs just as good as the day I got it 11 years ago, doesn't use any oil and still gets 23 MPG. Last fall, it developed what sounds like an exhaust leak under the hood. It seems to be coming from the area of the EGR valve. The trouble is that I can't feel it or smell it. I have carefully felt the entire length of the tube running from the EGR to the exhaust manifold and cannot feel any leaks. There is no soot or any other evidence of an exhaust leak.
The noise isn't there for the first minute or so that the truck is running. I would think that if I had a cracked manifold or some other such leak, it would be worse when the engine is cold but this is not the case for me. It is most noticeable when pulling a hill as slow speeds in a higher gear. I have checked for codes (no CEL) and there are none. When I first heard it I figured that I would wait until it gets a little worse and I would be able to find it. Its been been over 8 months now it has remained the same.