The blinker in my 98 Mazda B4000 does not deactivate when turning right/left. The multi-function switch was replaced last year with an OEM part.
View 2 RepliesI noticed that my ABS was engaging when I would slow down to a stop while turning left. I pulled the fuse for the ABS just to make sure that's what was causing the pulsating brake, and it was. Anyway, if it's an ABS sensor problem, would it be the front passenger side sensor if it's only happening when I turn left? Is there a way to test this. Would a scanner detect it? It hasn't been throwing a code or anything. Just the ABS engaging while braking and turning to the left when it shouldn't be.
View 6 RepliesI also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on.
View 14 RepliesWhen I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
View 14 RepliesI didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
View 7 RepliesHow to keep the freaking dome light from automatically turning itself off?? I understand it's a battery life saving function but I find it ANNOYING and would like to stop it.
View 6 RepliesIt started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.
When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.
It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.
I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.
I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.
All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.
My 2000 ranger in 4x4 high never did this. And in 2wd it doesn't pull at all...
When in 4x4 high it pulls hard to the left ?????? is left not working? It has automatic hubs ...
I recently acquired a B4000(for a steal!), had it almost a month now and im starting to notice a few problems, all driveline related (I think).
1. Have a "grinding/rubbing" noise in a LEFT turn only. It is a 4x4 and I haven't turned a bolt on it yet, save for very minor stuff. Since this particular model has some costly parts, I'm trying to prevent buying unnecessary parts! I have a set of 31 x 10.50 on it, and even though there is some minor tire rub, im 90% certain this is not the case.
2. Has a somewhat "hard" shift when going into O/D(I think), doesn't do this all the time, I wonder if problem #2 and #3 are related.
3. Appears to be about 1in slack in the rear driveline, wondering if it is the rearend, and specifically the spider gears or pinion?
4. Also seems to be just a LITTLE slack in the front left CV axel, is this something I should be worried about? the front right is good and tight, Tcase shifts like its suppose to.
Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
I opened up my hood yesterday to check on everything and happened to notice that my radiator cap was gone. I don't know if I just forgot to put it back on the last time I checked my coolant or what happened, but I of course immediately bought another one and put that on. What happened to the old one. Looked all through the engine and didn't see a cap laying in there anywhere.
Anyway, do I have anything to be worried about? My truck has never overheated or anything. I really don't know how long I was driving around with that cap off. The coolant was a little low in the radiator but actually not too bad. Only had to add a little to get it back to the top. Should I be worried that this caused any damage in any way or am I OK since I never overheated?
When I make a left turn I have a horrible grinding noise. Only when I turn left and at any speed.
View 2 Replies1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
1995 ranger 4,0 4x4... when started up, wipers go 2 times and then stop, but cant turn on again, also blower and 4WD stopped work....
View 4 RepliesI've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
My 40 Ford pickup is on an 86 Ranger chassis and uses the stock Ranger steering gear. My question is about the connections on the steering box. I'm using a GM power steering pump and several steering gear vendors have told me that outside of needing to adjust the pressure for the correct feel, the combo works. I fired the truck for the first time tonight but the steering wheel went crazy, shaking around and finally spinning on it's own to a hard left.
Some quick research leads me to believe that I have the lines reversed but it would be great to know for sure. I did manage to find on e diagram of a Ford PS box on Google and it shows the lines reversed of what I have set up on my truck and I can't for the life of me remember how I figured out what the plumbing should be when I installed it. Which port on the box is the inlet and which is the return?
Having problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
View 3 RepliesWhile in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
One last issue with my 2000 B3000 3.0L. The leak seems to be on the left (passenger) side of the water pump very near where the bottom radiator hose connects to it. I can't find any loose bolts. It does not leak while driving the truck or soon after. It has to sit for several hours or overnight before it shows up. There are usually 3 or 4 wet spots where it drips from the water pump to the frame to the driveway. It is small enough that I only have to fill up my coolant tank every 1 or 2 months. Could this just be a small gasket leak? It's been happening for about a year or so I think. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. I've been expecting it to get worse or bust loose and have been checking it very often. I've never seen one not leak while running like this-has me puzzled.
View 6 RepliesHooked up the trailer today for the first time, i have running lights, right turn signal, and no left blinker. left bulb looks good. dual filament. #6 fuse inside truck looks good, can't figure out why no left blinker... trailer worked fine on my previous truck. Not sure what to tackle next..
View 10 RepliesI have a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L, it's the truck I learned to drive in (stick at 13yo) and the 1st car I crashed too... So now this baby is almost 30 years old and recently had a minor restoration...
Engine was pulled out and all gaskets were changed, spark plugs, wire... All that stuff... It has been running pretty good, however last week a water line broke on the Left side near the spark plugs (if you are looking at the truck)
Since then It has absolutely Zero power. The slightest hill and even when pedal to the floor will lose power. Yesterday went from the start of a hill at 60mph in 4th to 20mph in 2nd because it didn't have the guts to go 1/3 mile uphill... I checked everything I could, and my brother took it to the exhaust guy who made a small hole on the Catalytic Converter and said it was good, but he could tell it was running too rich...
I replaced some of the vacuum lines last night, I found a lose one on the fuel pressure regulator (I think that's what it is, Its towards the engine firewall on top).
Idles beautifully, drives great, no rough shifting, pinging or knocking, no misfires. So that's what has me stumped... Runs great but just no power... Also before water line broke it was running fine with power...
1987 Ford Ranger
2.3L FI
5sp manual, Rwd