Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Intermittent / Complete Loss Of Power Only When Driving
Sep 11, 2016
Background- 2000 Ranger, 3.0L 2WD 170,000mi. This truck is not my daily driver, i try to drive it once a week.
I've never had this issue before... I drove all over town yesterday; multiple stops, no issue. Today i go to do the same thing and upon accelerating out of the driveway i lose all power for about 3 seconds. I get power back for about 3 seconds then lose it again. This continues for as longs as i'm driving. Also, no CEL. I go back to the house to look things over, can't find anything staring me in the face really.
Truck idles fine and the issue is not present when i run up the RPMs in park. I've been reading some other threads about similar issues and most replies begin with checking the regular maintenance stuff i.e. TB, MAF, IACV, pcv, etc. It seems like a complete loss of fuel or spark...but only when in gear with constant throttle???
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This has happened before on my 98 ranger 2.5. You can drive it 10,000 miles without any issue and then all of a sudden you take off and there's no power but it quickly returns. Within the last year I've changed fuel pump assembly, fuel filter, injectors, cool packs, and plugs. Is it mass air flow? It seemed to happen a lot more after I cleaned it. My scan tool is amateur but it has a maf reading in lbs. What should it be while driving? Fuel pressure is always between 65-72 when I check it within specs according to my book.
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So I got everything fixed on my 94 ranger so I thought. Now it runs right on the "L" on the idiot gauge on 90 degree plus days running the AC. Also it seems to lose power at times and not even want to do 70. I think new coils, new plugs and wires may work. I also have an intermittent check engine light that pops up on occasion, but clears when you kill the motor and start it back up. I was really starting to like this truck despite it not being my style(I like square body rangers) and it being a 4 cylinder. I like the MPG but am starting to think the 200k engine may be fading
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So, a couple of months ago, my Ranger lost a lot of power going down the road, and when I came to a stop it died, and wouldn't start. So I got it started by roll starting it, made it to a friend's, and then back home. I've put new spark plugs and wires in, and it needed it, badly, but it didn't work. I got a couple of codes off of it,
P0302- Cylinder 2 misfire detected(which I fixed with the spark plugs)
P1443 - which I can't find a definitive answer for
P0500- vehicle speed sensor malfunction
P0171- system to lean (bank 1)
So, the truck will turn over, and if I give it a lot of gas it'll start at stay started for a few minutes, but then cut off. When it is running it's running very very very roughly.
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Bought my third 88 ranger today, drove it 55 of 60 miles home and it died. It lost power and acted like the coil was going bad. This one is a 2.9 5 speed 4x4. The a/c compressor is gone; but the 365 a/c works okay, or did.
My daughter was following me in her car; by the time we got back with my F150 and a chain, it started and ran until it was a half maile from home then lost power and died again.
Drug it home, put a new coil on and it started and revved up fine. Went to move it a couple of hours later and it will crank with the starter, but not fire.
I am getting 12 volts to the primary side of the coil, is there any way to check the TFI module without taking it off the distributor? (they are so accessable).
Or is there something else that I need to check? I really don't want to just throw money at it, I like to know for sure what is wrong before I buy parts.
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My ranger sounds like it's revving up real high when I take off but don't have much power. Know what this could be?
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1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
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My problem: Intermittent skipping / bogging / lack of power etc. It started about 2 months ago and is progressively getting worse. At first it was every couple of weeks, then once a week, now daily. It happens at variable times, temperatures (engine), and rpm's. When this happens I can pull over, shut the engine off, wait 1 minute and restart and it drives fine until next time. Now it will run fine for 1 to 2 minutes then stall. Sometimes runs rough first other times dies flat out. Starts right back up though?
What I've done so far: New plugs and wires. Tested both coil packs (primary resistance at input socket is .7 ohms on both coils and secondary resistance on top is 12.02 to 12.07 on both coils ).Since code 224 is primary circuit failure coil # 1 2 3 or 4 I replaced primary coil anyway. No luck. Removed ICM had it tested(at auto zone) 10 times in a row, it passed each time.
Checked the fuel system at the rail idles at 32 psi with vac.on at regulator and 40psi with vac. off at regulator. All within specs.
Checked compression. 170 psi lowest reading and 180 psi highest reading.All within specs.
Took some timing notes. Idles at 22*btdc after a minute or 2 it drops to 15*btdc for ~5 seconds then back to 22*btdc then dies flat out. Or it will go from 22*btdc to 28*btdc run rough for ~10 seconds then stall.
I disconnected the spout connector but it still idles at 22*btdc. I thought this would force the engine to run at base timing (10*btdc) but no go.
I'm thinking maybe the cam position sensor but I can't find it to replace it. It is not by the oil filter where it should be.
Found this info on rockledge site ("On other setups, such as the 2.3L Ranger, the PIP and CID signals are both generated from the crankshaft by virtue of a "dual vane actuator" which is essentially a doubled-up Hall-Effect sensor.")
Does this mean I don't have a cam position sensor? It's all rolled into one at the ckp? How to confirm that I have DIS or EDIS ignition ?
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higer rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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My brother's 87 ford ranger 2.3L truck began to have problems. It would be running great, then start to misfire, run rough, sputter, shake and loose accelleration then die. Then it wouldn't start back up for a long time, sometimes til the next day. Little by little, the truck would drive a shorter and shorter distance between breakdowns. He first tried some minor work himself, (basic tune up) - replaced his rotor, cap, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, but that didn't fix it. He went to one garage (big mistake), who said the fuel pump pressure was fine but said he found a broken wire on the harness grounding out and it needed new ignition module and replaced it. (Cost was $350.00+), Garage promised to honor any additional work nec if it continued to have the same problem, and would be free of charge.
Five more breakdowns later and two more "better quality ignition modules", new battery terminals, and 1 new computer later, this joker did more unauthorized work and demanded another $200+ besides the fact of breaking his orig agreement "free of charge" if any further problems! Needless to say, second garage fixed the truck by replacing the magnetic pickup, part # DU 30-C (an electrical part that goes in the distributor and pulsates a current to operate the timing) (it does something like that) and the truck has been driven approximately 40-60 miles as of today, (3 days later), without breaking down. All the other times when picked up from incompetent garage, it wouldn't go more than 1 - 7 miles before breaking down and each time they didn't fix it.
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I recently picked up a 93 ranger sport 4x4 with 2.3L engine and 5spd.. Has run fine for the first 2 weeks of ownership but yesterday morning, it started cutting out on the highway. When I say cutting it is like all loss of power for a brief instant and then it right back without even losing any speed, I could watch tach drop from 2500 to 2k and then right back to 2500 again..
Did it sporadically all the way home about 10 miles sometimes once in a mile other times 6-7 times in a mile. Truck has 126k on it, and within last 26k miles PO replaced timing belt, coil packs, plugs, wires, ICM, and just before i picked it up from him a new EGR and fuel filter.
No check engine light
Fast forward to this AM
Wouldn't start at all, i can hear fuel pump spinning and she cranks and cranks but no start up.... played with multiple things including the ICM but found 2 of 3 heads rounded off so i cant remove it until i can get it in to my garage and dremel those suckers off..
Went and bought a replacement ICM figured i could plug it in run a ground from the bottom left hand bolt hole so i could get it fired up and in to my garage.. plugged the new one in grounded it and it still wouldn't start...
So I decided to replug the original ICM back in and grab my spark plug tester, remove number 3 plug wire on passengers side insert the tester and have my wife crank it over and wonder of wonder it fires up...
shut it down remove the tester and have her start it up again and it fires right back up so i let it warm up for 15 minutes.. grab my autoxray.. shut it down hook up the scan tool and run the KOEO scan.. gives me a passed 111 code... OK lets start it back up and run the KOER test.. wont start back up.. reinstall the spark plug tester to #3 wire and NOW it has no spark..
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2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
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Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
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Bought my Santa Fe GLS less than 2 months ago and ran fine. Last week, went to store no problems and then went out 5 minutes later, put it in reverse and it stalled. I go to the store, and it lacks MAJOR power.
Now, if I leave it alone for a while it will normally start right up. While idling, everything seems fine. Then my "ghost" takes over the vehicle making it less responsive to the gas pedal. Also, at 3000 rpm, it sounds like its skipping a cylinder. When reading the gauge, it skips between 3000rpm to abut 2800 rpm.
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When ever i am at a complete stop, i have to hold down the clutch pedal for about 4 seconds before it will go into any gear. If i'm in motion it shifts flawlessly through all gears. But if i stop and put it into neutral and let off the clutch, the next time i push it down it will take about 4 seconds to slide in any gear including reverse. I just bought the truck a few days ago so i don't know its history but everything seems well maintained. What this is and if it will cause major issues down the line?
1995 Ranger XLT 2.3L SOHC 2WD 5spd 169,000 miles...
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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I was driving up a hill an it started to loose power. i got up to the top of the highway an stopped an it just shut down. got towed home i thought it could of been the alternator but dose not seem to be. took the belt off to spin the motor an its not spinning. drained the oil an there is no metal in it to see if the motor was done. i try to start it an it just dose a click click an that's it. Is the motor done or is it a transmission problem?
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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I'm trying to fix a transmission problem with my work truck. It's a company owned, 2011 f150 super cab, 2wd, 5.0 and 6 speed auto. It currently has 225K miles. The problem is very random occurring 2-3 times per week, usually happens on start up, and goes away after a hand full of engine restarts. It has happened twice on the freeway, the transmission releases and a complete loss of power and coasts to a stop. At the same time, the speedometer goes to zero regardless of vehicle speed. Normally, when it happens, the speedometer does not read, all the mpg, miles to E, and related meters show bars "-----". The vehicle starts and takes off ok, but when it tries to shift, it just releases and the truck coasts to a stop. It will repeat this for a while.
After several restarts, the truck goes back to normal. This has happened a couple dozen times now. The wrench and check engine light came on during the very first instance, but the auto shop said there were no trouble codes stored. They kept it for a week, and said it never reoccurred. I have a lousy video that shows, when this happens, the trans starts in 2nd, jumps to 5th, then 2nd, then 5th. I am past due for a new work truck and this one is on its way out, but has to last another couple of months! This truck has otherwise been very problem free and well maintained. I'm actually thinking of trying to pick it up cheap, if the repair is not too bad.
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
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